Say good bye to wheel hop on your FC...
09-14-2010, 10:33 PM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Kissimmee FL.
Posts: 1,579
This is how you get rid of wheels hop for 6k+ launches!!!
Even the Mazda competition mount sucks. So what i did was take my factory one. Which was broken of course. Sand blast it clean then trim off the front piece. Then weld in thick steel bracing to make t truly stiff and UN-BREAKABLE!!! You don' need a TIG to do this. You can easily MIG it with no problem. I just prefer TIG for everything.
I also did this because i swapped out my tired old NA diff for the world famous TII s4 diff. This will work for both NA and TII, s4 and s5. S4 diffs are the strongest of all Mazda factory rear ends. Then added solid rear diff mounts and a pinion snubber. The snubber will keep the nose of the diff from popping up. If you have the solid mount like pictured above, shouldnt be a problem anymore. But when the snubber is only 5 bucks at your local parts store, and only take 10 minutes to install... better safe than sorry.One other cheap thing that usually works is adding a rear strut bar. The goal is to remove any and all slack from the drivetrain. Don't forget to stiffen up the tranny and motor mounts. Engine braces work wonder also.
Other problems that can cause wheel hop is your suspension set-up and tire choice. There is no one real answer to getting that low 60ft ET. Work on them all, and experiment at the track with what works for you and your car!
Even the Mazda competition mount sucks. So what i did was take my factory one. Which was broken of course. Sand blast it clean then trim off the front piece. Then weld in thick steel bracing to make t truly stiff and UN-BREAKABLE!!! You don' need a TIG to do this. You can easily MIG it with no problem. I just prefer TIG for everything.
I also did this because i swapped out my tired old NA diff for the world famous TII s4 diff. This will work for both NA and TII, s4 and s5. S4 diffs are the strongest of all Mazda factory rear ends. Then added solid rear diff mounts and a pinion snubber. The snubber will keep the nose of the diff from popping up. If you have the solid mount like pictured above, shouldnt be a problem anymore. But when the snubber is only 5 bucks at your local parts store, and only take 10 minutes to install... better safe than sorry.One other cheap thing that usually works is adding a rear strut bar. The goal is to remove any and all slack from the drivetrain. Don't forget to stiffen up the tranny and motor mounts. Engine braces work wonder also.
Other problems that can cause wheel hop is your suspension set-up and tire choice. There is no one real answer to getting that low 60ft ET. Work on them all, and experiment at the track with what works for you and your car!
09-14-2010, 11:01 PM
#2
Super Moderator
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Savannah, Ga
Posts: 2,763
Very nicely done. One thing I noticed on my car a while back though is if you have a camber link in the rear cranked all the way in and the car dropped a good amount, you wont get wheel hop or broken diff mounts either. The camber link rotates the subframe up, and wedges the diff against the floorpan. Once you get past the thunking from the diff smacking the floorpan, you realize the diff isnt moving enough to actually break the oem rubber mount.
I have broken many things on FC's, but never a diff mount.
I have broken many things on FC's, but never a diff mount.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)