eyecandy

[quote name='rfreeman27' date='Jun 11 2005, 08:10 PM']I like your site eyecandy, very professional! I might buy some suspension stuff from you for my FD.



BTW, itsnt it Toyota Cressida JZX81, not Creddida


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Don't ask, I have a friend doing the work on the page right now and for some reason he could not do a simple "copy and paste" Besides the webpage should be updated shortly.

Ricer240sx

[quote name='eyecandy' date='Jun 10 2005, 11:20 AM']Well to use a quickener you will need to get a whole new steering rack, since they are pretty much just made for US cars (US racecars). You would probably be better off trying to modify an oe rack. Bascially what you woul dbe doing is changing the gearing.



I assume you have nothing for the FC? If so here is what I recommend:



First off replace anything that is broken or worn out.



-Polyuerthane bushing kit

-Toe elminator bushings

-Rear adjustable camber link

-Steering angle kit



-strut bars

-coilovers

-roll center blocks (front lower a-arms)

-Sway bars



Thats pretty much the order I recommend them in. Strut bars (front) are in the middle of the list because of how it effects the FCs and causes them to understeer more. Sway bars are at the bottom becasue they should be the last item to be installed and after your chassis is setup properly, sway bars tend to complemnt suspension setups and can hinder your ease of proper setup if they are already upgraded.



If the car has stock power, remove all the rear camber, as your power and expericene increases, increase the camber for stabilty reasons. If you would want to do a alignment setup this is what I recommend:



Front: 2-3 degrees camber; zero toe (add upto 1 degree with power)

Rear: zero camber (add camber with more power); zero toe


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i have some of that list, just need struts (gunna rund adj struts with springs) rear strut bar rear camber kit (got one for the front and rear, but only works for teh front ),roll center blocks (could u elaborate on that more?? and where can i get'em?)and the steering angle kit wich i will be purchasing soon



and yeah, i deff need an alignment right now



i have a full mods list in my sig

eyecandy

Roll center blocks can ONLY be used of S4's. They are placed bewteen the lower ball joint and lower a-arm. It is used for excessivly lowered cars, or cars that have been lowered but want stock camber back in the front wheels. When you lower the vehicle you create neagtive camber all around, which in turns changes the gemoerty/movement of the lower a-arms.



When the suspension is stock the a-arms are about flat, but when lowered the a-arms are pointed up and the block return them to about stock.



As for where you can find them, I am just about finished with my testing of them and they will be available on www.secretelement.com shortly. I am not sure if anyone else produces these, if there is I have no idea.

drftk1d

question for you eyecandy, why are you dtss killers made of steel?

eyecandy

[quote name='drftk1d' date='Jun 14 2005, 11:52 AM']question for you eyecandy, why are you dtss killers made of steel?


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Its actually stainless steel, but whos counting



My reasoning is becasue they are very strong and will not fatigue. But most importantly I have had bad experiences with the Racing Beat/MazdaTix style. They would crack/shatter while be pressed in, which derilin is NOT suppose to do that. I know SS (or any other metal) will NOT do that, and looking at the consumer end as well, in event that you screw up a hub in an accident, just press the bushing back out and press it in another hub. Can't do that with the others, I tried

treceb

vosko said to make me a super angle kit for my FD.(i think thats what he said)

How much?



will prolly be picking a few other goodies while at it.

vosko

[quote name='treceb' date='Jun 14 2005, 09:56 PM']vosko said to make me a super angle kit for my FD.(i think thats what he said)

How much?



will prolly be picking a few other goodies while at it.


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you are correct! do it! it makes parking fun

eyecandy

SuperNow! does produce them for the FD, along with many other chassis's. I do have one set of just steering rack spacers available for the FD.

Var

I'd just like to throw in my 2 cents about the alignment. I just parted out my 240 drift car and started building an FC drift car. First of all, i'd just like to comment on the parts availability for FC compared to 240 is very different. I'm having a hard time finding the parts that i need. I'm glad i found secretelement..i'll be getting at least a few pieces from you in the next month.





Ok back to the alignment thing. The front alignment should be negative toe, which is toe out. This gives you a tad slower steering response, but it makes the front end track a lot better and more overall traction. Also it gives you more steering angle at full lock cause your wheels are pointed out more.



My FC will be powered by an LS1. Therefore i will hopefully have no power issues. I'm going to use the rear toe link kit and run about one degree of positive toe(toe in) for more traction and higher cornering speed...basically doing the same thing as DTTS but the advantage is the alignment angle will be consistant and easier to predict, especially on switchbacks.



I dont know that much about FC chassis except that

1-they are better than s-chassis nissan as far as stiffness

2-steering angle sucks, and the control arms get in the way



i may resort to cutting/welding the spindle to pull the tie rod end inwards more.



I dont even know if FC's have caster adjustment..? Lots of research to be done.

boostinmys5

i'm running the gp sports Super angle kit... works GREAT!!! u can definately FEEL the extra angle you get from the kit... i also have an extra set of spindles that i'll be modifying for more angle, but also need to figure out how i'm not gonna hit the sway bar... which i'm already hitting with the gp kit.. and 9.5" fronts.. haahaa











new paint.. wooohooo