Gp Sports Super Angle Kit
#1
hey gusy, have been drifting for a couple years now. mostly 240sx's. but i now have an FC and am drifting it. but the one thing i noticed is that the steering angle is the suxors on here!!! so i am looking for some tie rod spacers. i decided to go with the GP Sports over the super now and i was wondering if anyone could give some feed back on them?
o also plan on redusing the lock to lock turning to 180 each way...if anyone has done that before i would like input there too
o also plan on redusing the lock to lock turning to 180 each way...if anyone has done that before i would like input there too
#3
#6
[quote name='Ricer240sx' date='Jun 8 2005, 11:42 AM']hey gusy, have been drifting for a couple years now. mostly 240sx's. but i now have an FC and am drifting it. but the one thing i noticed is that the steering angle is the suxors on here!!! so i am looking for some tie rod spacers. i decided to go with the GP Sports over the super now and i was wondering if anyone could give some feed back on them?
o also plan on redusing the lock to lock turning to 180 each way...if anyone has done that before i would like input there too
[/quote]
Welcome to the aggrevating world of driftinng FCs, enjoy!!!!
No, seriously once the car is setup properly its a drift machine, in my opinion more stable and controlable than 240's. The best way I can rate the FC is it being a intermedaite-pro, were as a 240 is a beginner. A few of my friends that have FCs jumped into 240's and looked like they have been drifiting for years.
Well on the Angle kits, the GP Sports and SuperNow!'s are pretty much identical other than the aluminum rods being orangish/gold (Possibly just rebadged SuperNow!'s). I recommend SuperNow!'s for a couple reasons, one they offer a race version (high strength rod end for high load applications), I know more people running SuperNow!'s than GP Sports. Lastly, which I think has alot to do with more running the SuperNow!'s is the places that carry/can get the GP Sports have a turn around time of 4-6 weeks, me on the other hand can be as fast as 3-4days, plus my prices are about the same at the 3-4day as the competetiors 4-6 week.
Can you explain the alittle more about the lock to lock 180 each way? Are you speaking of the steering ratio? You would neeed a steering rack quickener.
o also plan on redusing the lock to lock turning to 180 each way...if anyone has done that before i would like input there too
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[/quote]
Welcome to the aggrevating world of driftinng FCs, enjoy!!!!
No, seriously once the car is setup properly its a drift machine, in my opinion more stable and controlable than 240's. The best way I can rate the FC is it being a intermedaite-pro, were as a 240 is a beginner. A few of my friends that have FCs jumped into 240's and looked like they have been drifiting for years.
Well on the Angle kits, the GP Sports and SuperNow!'s are pretty much identical other than the aluminum rods being orangish/gold (Possibly just rebadged SuperNow!'s). I recommend SuperNow!'s for a couple reasons, one they offer a race version (high strength rod end for high load applications), I know more people running SuperNow!'s than GP Sports. Lastly, which I think has alot to do with more running the SuperNow!'s is the places that carry/can get the GP Sports have a turn around time of 4-6 weeks, me on the other hand can be as fast as 3-4days, plus my prices are about the same at the 3-4day as the competetiors 4-6 week.
Can you explain the alittle more about the lock to lock 180 each way? Are you speaking of the steering ratio? You would neeed a steering rack quickener.
#7
yeah i am talking about reducing the ration.....can u elaborate on the quickener?? i was going to pick up a used rack and have my buddy modifie it for me (we was going to do one for a 240 drift car he helped swap an RB26 into....)
and also, what do u recomend is needed to get the RX-7 to "drifthappieness"? lol
and also, what do u recomend is needed to get the RX-7 to "drifthappieness"? lol
#8
Well to use a quickener you will need to get a whole new steering rack, since they are pretty much just made for US cars (US racecars). You would probably be better off trying to modify an oe rack. Bascially what you woul dbe doing is changing the gearing.
I assume you have nothing for the FC? If so here is what I recommend:
First off replace anything that is broken or worn out.
-Polyuerthane bushing kit
-Toe elminator bushings
-Rear adjustable camber link
-Steering angle kit
-strut bars
-coilovers
-roll center blocks (front lower a-arms)
-Sway bars
Thats pretty much the order I recommend them in. Strut bars (front) are in the middle of the list because of how it effects the FCs and causes them to understeer more. Sway bars are at the bottom becasue they should be the last item to be installed and after your chassis is setup properly, sway bars tend to complemnt suspension setups and can hinder your ease of proper setup if they are already upgraded.
If the car has stock power, remove all the rear camber, as your power and expericene increases, increase the camber for stabilty reasons. If you would want to do a alignment setup this is what I recommend:
Front: 2-3 degrees camber; zero toe (add upto 1 degree with power)
Rear: zero camber (add camber with more power); zero toe
I assume you have nothing for the FC? If so here is what I recommend:
First off replace anything that is broken or worn out.
-Polyuerthane bushing kit
-Toe elminator bushings
-Rear adjustable camber link
-Steering angle kit
-strut bars
-coilovers
-roll center blocks (front lower a-arms)
-Sway bars
Thats pretty much the order I recommend them in. Strut bars (front) are in the middle of the list because of how it effects the FCs and causes them to understeer more. Sway bars are at the bottom becasue they should be the last item to be installed and after your chassis is setup properly, sway bars tend to complemnt suspension setups and can hinder your ease of proper setup if they are already upgraded.
If the car has stock power, remove all the rear camber, as your power and expericene increases, increase the camber for stabilty reasons. If you would want to do a alignment setup this is what I recommend:
Front: 2-3 degrees camber; zero toe (add upto 1 degree with power)
Rear: zero camber (add camber with more power); zero toe