Pics Of My Water Injection Setup
07-14-2003, 11:16 PM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: bay area
Posts: 235
For those of you that dont visit the other forum, here is some info on my WI setup. I have had it installed about 2 weeks now.
Here are some results of testing some euro cars with WI.
http://www.europeancarweb.com/projectcars/...04ec_projm3_02/
Other info:
http://www.imoc.co.uk/technical/article/wi.htm
My research has told me that the entire purpose of water injection is to avoid detonation. Some side effects of water injection is to allow more boost to be run safely and also to allow you to run on low octain gas (although I will not try that).
If you go with water injection, you have different options as to where you inject the water (before the turbo/sc or after the IC). I did mine just as it goes into the engine at the elbow. You can run 100 pct water or part water/part alcohol. There is plenty of debate as what is better. For Maximum cooling effect you should run some alcohol, but even just water is very effective. If you run more than 50 pct alcohol, the heat absorbtion properties of the water are compromized and from what I read, you will actually contribute to detonation rather than prevent it. Methane, does add octain to the fuel though. I will run 80/20 water/denatured alcohol.
This is a drawing of my hose installation. Electrical is not on here:
Here are some pics of my set up.
Water bottle, 3 gallons!! fits perfect. You can see the water filter too.
water pump. When I put the cover on you will never know I have WI from inside the car. Its very quiet, infact you cant hear the pump.
Here is the selenoid and the injector. You notice the selenoid neatly attached to my firewall and the nozzel tapped into my plastic elbow:
I made this out of Lexan (arcrylic) and painted it. I have since added A green LED under the orange LED you see next to the boost gauge. the orange LED is on when the system is armed, the Green one ligths up and clicks when the water starts injecting. This is essential to any set up. You cant hear the pump, if you mis wire or get a short you can pump water in your engine at idle and hydrolock your engine. I consider this crucial.
Here is the pressure switch and relay. The pressure switch is gold, I put a T from my manifold to get pressure to my boost gauge and this switch. The relay is where you see the red wires coming out (Im gonna shrink wrap those this weekend so you cant see the red).
The cost is about 130-150 in parts. Here is what is required for ANY car, the rest is up to your specific needs.
1) high pressure pump from Northern tool $60.00 (agriculure pump 60 PSI)
2) Water Senoid (from McMaster-Carr). $25.00 This is whats attached to my firewall. It does not come on until the pressure switch activates it. This way water cannot drain into the engine from gravity, etc.
3) Hobbs Pressure Switch from Napa. You can set from 1 to 60 PSI for your pump to activate. its $24.00
4) spray nozzel from Mc-MasterCarr. costs $3.00, you need to determine the GPH of your nozzel. You should have a 12-25pct volume water to fuel.
5)Fuel line hose, some say to use FI hose, but its 4.00 per foot, I used the $1.19 per foot Fuel line and have no problems. I needed 15 feet cause my tank and pump are in my trunk area.
6) Tank. You can use your stock windshield washer tank, but you will have to tap it and its small. I got a nice 3 gallon tank (used to have 1.5, but found a really compact 3 gallon tank, 2 days ago at the auto parts store (ran into Rico91Stang, LOL) mounted it in my trunk where my spare tire used to go.
7) brass fittings. This is determined by the location of your pump, etc. I needed some 90 degree angle fittings for my pump cause of the location. You will need 4 3/8 M connectors for the WP and the Selenoid and mabye a few more based on your situation. Once you get the selenoid and the pump you will know what you need.
8) you need to make your own wiring harness. Make it neat and clean as factory as possible. probably costs 5- bucks at most including the relay.
9) get some sort of fuel filter, you can see mine in the water bottle pic above.
Lastly, you have several options. Due to the nature of my engine I use simply as an anti-detonation device. In otherwords I dont tune for the Water Injection. I am tuned on my IC. If you tune for your WI and you run out of water or your pump fails or your injectors get clogged, you will blow your engine. Also, the setup for nitrous is probably similar to this, but they do different things. Water injection by itself will not give you that much more power (it does lower your intake temps considerably, so in that respect it may), but it does allow you to run more boost than you could without it, enabeling you to go faster.
Here are some results of testing some euro cars with WI.
http://www.europeancarweb.com/projectcars/...04ec_projm3_02/
Other info:
http://www.imoc.co.uk/technical/article/wi.htm
My research has told me that the entire purpose of water injection is to avoid detonation. Some side effects of water injection is to allow more boost to be run safely and also to allow you to run on low octain gas (although I will not try that).
If you go with water injection, you have different options as to where you inject the water (before the turbo/sc or after the IC). I did mine just as it goes into the engine at the elbow. You can run 100 pct water or part water/part alcohol. There is plenty of debate as what is better. For Maximum cooling effect you should run some alcohol, but even just water is very effective. If you run more than 50 pct alcohol, the heat absorbtion properties of the water are compromized and from what I read, you will actually contribute to detonation rather than prevent it. Methane, does add octain to the fuel though. I will run 80/20 water/denatured alcohol.
This is a drawing of my hose installation. Electrical is not on here:
Here are some pics of my set up.
Water bottle, 3 gallons!! fits perfect. You can see the water filter too.
water pump. When I put the cover on you will never know I have WI from inside the car. Its very quiet, infact you cant hear the pump.
Here is the selenoid and the injector. You notice the selenoid neatly attached to my firewall and the nozzel tapped into my plastic elbow:
I made this out of Lexan (arcrylic) and painted it. I have since added A green LED under the orange LED you see next to the boost gauge. the orange LED is on when the system is armed, the Green one ligths up and clicks when the water starts injecting. This is essential to any set up. You cant hear the pump, if you mis wire or get a short you can pump water in your engine at idle and hydrolock your engine. I consider this crucial.
Here is the pressure switch and relay. The pressure switch is gold, I put a T from my manifold to get pressure to my boost gauge and this switch. The relay is where you see the red wires coming out (Im gonna shrink wrap those this weekend so you cant see the red).
The cost is about 130-150 in parts. Here is what is required for ANY car, the rest is up to your specific needs.
1) high pressure pump from Northern tool $60.00 (agriculure pump 60 PSI)
2) Water Senoid (from McMaster-Carr). $25.00 This is whats attached to my firewall. It does not come on until the pressure switch activates it. This way water cannot drain into the engine from gravity, etc.
3) Hobbs Pressure Switch from Napa. You can set from 1 to 60 PSI for your pump to activate. its $24.00
4) spray nozzel from Mc-MasterCarr. costs $3.00, you need to determine the GPH of your nozzel. You should have a 12-25pct volume water to fuel.
5)Fuel line hose, some say to use FI hose, but its 4.00 per foot, I used the $1.19 per foot Fuel line and have no problems. I needed 15 feet cause my tank and pump are in my trunk area.
6) Tank. You can use your stock windshield washer tank, but you will have to tap it and its small. I got a nice 3 gallon tank (used to have 1.5, but found a really compact 3 gallon tank, 2 days ago at the auto parts store (ran into Rico91Stang, LOL) mounted it in my trunk where my spare tire used to go.
7) brass fittings. This is determined by the location of your pump, etc. I needed some 90 degree angle fittings for my pump cause of the location. You will need 4 3/8 M connectors for the WP and the Selenoid and mabye a few more based on your situation. Once you get the selenoid and the pump you will know what you need.
8) you need to make your own wiring harness. Make it neat and clean as factory as possible. probably costs 5- bucks at most including the relay.
9) get some sort of fuel filter, you can see mine in the water bottle pic above.
Lastly, you have several options. Due to the nature of my engine I use simply as an anti-detonation device. In otherwords I dont tune for the Water Injection. I am tuned on my IC. If you tune for your WI and you run out of water or your pump fails or your injectors get clogged, you will blow your engine. Also, the setup for nitrous is probably similar to this, but they do different things. Water injection by itself will not give you that much more power (it does lower your intake temps considerably, so in that respect it may), but it does allow you to run more boost than you could without it, enabeling you to go faster.
07-16-2003, 06:10 AM
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: La Plata, Maryland
Posts: 9,725
Nice write up, thanks for the addition to the forum.
I dont know much about water injection.
When do you use it? At the track, all the time, when under heavy boost? What made you decide to use it?
I dont know much about water injection.
When do you use it? At the track, all the time, when under heavy boost? What made you decide to use it?
07-16-2003, 10:08 AM
#7
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: bay area
Posts: 235
I'll try to answer the above questions in this post. I also have my latest diagram. This is my complete install pic. Sorry I got dizzy making this.
Anyway, to answer the questions...I use it during daily driving and at the track. I have a manual switch to turn it off. In the morning and when its cold out I dont use it. If I ever race at the track during a cold day I will probably use it, but not for daily driving in the cold weather.
its set to come on at 8 psi. I thought about getting an rpm switch that makes it come on after 3800 so its only during my 2nd turbo, but the more I use it, I realize its fine even at 5th gear 2500 rpm when I have more than 8 lbs of boost.
I use 60/40 water/denatured alcohol.
Anyway, to answer the questions...I use it during daily driving and at the track. I have a manual switch to turn it off. In the morning and when its cold out I dont use it. If I ever race at the track during a cold day I will probably use it, but not for daily driving in the cold weather.
its set to come on at 8 psi. I thought about getting an rpm switch that makes it come on after 3800 so its only during my 2nd turbo, but the more I use it, I realize its fine even at 5th gear 2500 rpm when I have more than 8 lbs of boost.
I use 60/40 water/denatured alcohol.
07-17-2003, 01:15 PM
#9
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: bay area
Posts: 235
Its not something that you are going to measure that much. Think about it, you are in vaccuum 90 pct of the time, so your intake temps are going for the most part look normal. Driving the car on a hot day with w/i is not easy to describe, other than saying it feels like its 55 degrees outside.
when driving in the city where I hit boost regularly I find my intake temps stay very stable. Also, there is a hill thats about a mile up that I drive so im on boost all the time. With the water injection you will watch the intake temps drop while your climbing the hill. Turn the WI off and the intake temps rise while climbing the hill. As soon as you lay off boost you will watch the intake temps climb.
Other example, been driving around the city, car is hot, park for 25 minutes and when you get back in your car your intake temps are 75C from the heatsoak. When I drive it on the road as soon as I hit boost, within a second or 2 you will see the temps drop to 65!! AS soon as you get off boost, it will start to rise from that immediate drop until the car stabilizes and drops as it normally would from air hitting the front.
Water injection is to prevent detonation, cooler intake temps and more power are more of a plus than anything else. Heatsoak is gone, thats the cool thing (pardon the pun, ok?)
Here is a linky and some quote.
"One very impressive aspect of this project is the water injection. It virtually eliminated heat soak. On the dyno, three back-to-back runs yielded practically no loss in horsepower at 14 psi. On the dragstrip, a heavily loaded fourth gear produced 100-to-120-mph times that ranged from 3.13 to 3.15--only a 0.02-sec. variation from four back-to-back quarter-mile runs with no cool down in between. Stay tuned; Project M3 will return to the road course next."
http://www.europeancarweb.com/projectcars/...04ec_projm3_02/
when driving in the city where I hit boost regularly I find my intake temps stay very stable. Also, there is a hill thats about a mile up that I drive so im on boost all the time. With the water injection you will watch the intake temps drop while your climbing the hill. Turn the WI off and the intake temps rise while climbing the hill. As soon as you lay off boost you will watch the intake temps climb.
Other example, been driving around the city, car is hot, park for 25 minutes and when you get back in your car your intake temps are 75C from the heatsoak. When I drive it on the road as soon as I hit boost, within a second or 2 you will see the temps drop to 65!! AS soon as you get off boost, it will start to rise from that immediate drop until the car stabilizes and drops as it normally would from air hitting the front.
Water injection is to prevent detonation, cooler intake temps and more power are more of a plus than anything else. Heatsoak is gone, thats the cool thing (pardon the pun, ok?)
Here is a linky and some quote.
"One very impressive aspect of this project is the water injection. It virtually eliminated heat soak. On the dyno, three back-to-back runs yielded practically no loss in horsepower at 14 psi. On the dragstrip, a heavily loaded fourth gear produced 100-to-120-mph times that ranged from 3.13 to 3.15--only a 0.02-sec. variation from four back-to-back quarter-mile runs with no cool down in between. Stay tuned; Project M3 will return to the road course next."
http://www.europeancarweb.com/projectcars/...04ec_projm3_02/