Engine Torque Braces...
#21
Originally Posted by Benny' date='Apr 27 2003, 12:12 AM
where is the "how to" haha i know SOMEONE has to know how to make one damnit
Either way, I took the stock rear strut tower bar(the adjustable kind) and cut off appx. 18 inches off from the adjustable end. Then I took the non-adjustable end and cut if off(appx. 1 inch from the end). I made mount to go onto the UIM and then eyeball measured the distance from the mount to the fenderwall. Then I got Dragon to weld(since I don't have a welder) the non-adjustable end to the other end of the adjustable one. Made a bracket to fit the fenderwall and BAM...engine torque brace.
#22
Originally Posted by jspecracer7' date='May 2 2003, 09:55 PM
It was cake. Mine is a solid brace though, no dampening whatsoever. But since I've got solid engine/diff mounts, there's tons of vibration going on in my car.
Either way, I took the stock rear strut tower bar(the adjustable kind) and cut off appx. 18 inches off from the adjustable end. Then I took the non-adjustable end and cut if off(appx. 1 inch from the end). I made mount to go onto the UIM and then eyeball measured the distance from the mount to the fenderwall. Then I got Dragon to weld(since I don't have a welder) the non-adjustable end to the other end of the adjustable one. Made a bracket to fit the fenderwall and BAM...engine torque brace.
Either way, I took the stock rear strut tower bar(the adjustable kind) and cut off appx. 18 inches off from the adjustable end. Then I took the non-adjustable end and cut if off(appx. 1 inch from the end). I made mount to go onto the UIM and then eyeball measured the distance from the mount to the fenderwall. Then I got Dragon to weld(since I don't have a welder) the non-adjustable end to the other end of the adjustable one. Made a bracket to fit the fenderwall and BAM...engine torque brace.
expec the final product from me in about june with a group buy orchestrated in the gorup buy section, im thinking about $55-$65 for 10+ people, we have to see how everything goes.
kevin.
#24
Originally Posted by Fd3BOOST' date='May 3 2003, 07:37 AM
On a side note. Mine stripped out he hole on the ack side on my UIM where i had it mounted.
I have a few extra uims but the arent polished. Next time I have it off i have to retap the hole.
I have a few extra uims but the arent polished. Next time I have it off i have to retap the hole.
kevin.
#26
Originally Posted by FrestyleReaction' date='May 9 2003, 01:36 PM
i heard they put a lot of stress on the LIM and UIM....thats whats kept me away....
#28
Dude, Get a tape measure.
Mine cost $17 bucks. HomeDepot style: 2 big *** eye-bolts. One 8" and one 10" with 2.5" hex nut in betwwen to connect them together creating a 20" bar that is adjustale. I then got a couple of 3"x0.5" bolts and various nuts and washers to connect them the flange on the UIM and the small "L" bracket against the engine bay wall that is bolted to an existing threaded hole. I also stuck some rubber grommets inside the "eyes" to minimize vibration and rattling...Easy.
It aint pretty, but it works! You can sort of see it here:
Mine cost $17 bucks. HomeDepot style: 2 big *** eye-bolts. One 8" and one 10" with 2.5" hex nut in betwwen to connect them together creating a 20" bar that is adjustale. I then got a couple of 3"x0.5" bolts and various nuts and washers to connect them the flange on the UIM and the small "L" bracket against the engine bay wall that is bolted to an existing threaded hole. I also stuck some rubber grommets inside the "eyes" to minimize vibration and rattling...Easy.
It aint pretty, but it works! You can sort of see it here:
#29
Originally Posted by FrestyleReaction' date='May 12 2003, 11:38 PM
hmmm.......sooooo KEVIN make me one for FC
kevin.