Thanks.. I just ordered some stuff from Loi again I need more money argh. I appreciate the advice of everyone.

 

i like the electronic boost controllers. no focking with something under the hood to adjust it, and or having vacuum lines run into the cab of the for the control either.....there is too much room for error when you run a vacuum line into the cab for a MBC, because you are getting too far away from the real pressure element of the UIM. and you need to have the line at or about the same level as the manifold, or vacuum reading area of your choice.



i like the apex avc-r.....that thing is the ****, and it can learn the car just like a power fc. not as expensive as the blitz, or the new greddy profec e-01, but comprable by all means....

 

A manual boost control is basically a hole in the vacuum line the wastegate uses to help control the boost. The more of the boost signal you bleed off the less pressure there is to help open the wastegate, so more boost builds. If you bleed 3psi off a 10 pound spring, now it takes 13psi to open the wastegate.



What most people don't know is a 10-pound spring wastegate starts to open at 5psi and stabilizes at 10psi. Between 5-10 you are wasting exhaust gas that could be used to help spool your turbo faster.



An electronic boost controller is just a manual controller being operated by a computer. Their biggest advantage is they can help hold the gate closed until right before your desired boost level and then open it rapidly. This way you are not wasting exhaust energy that could be making you turbo spool faster. Most can learn your boost curve and open/close the wastegate more optimally for your desired boost level. Besides having the convenience of being able to set multiple boost levels accurately, most electronic boost controllers allow you to adjust how smooth the boost will build. The best feature is most boost controllers will resort back to spring pressure if something goes wrong. If your manual controller breaks, it's not going to care and your boost may go through the roof.



If you going to spend lots of money on a car I don't see why you would want to be cheap and save a couple hundred bucks on a manual boost controller.





mark

 

when i was playing with my blitz sbc-id i noticed it has a boost limiter setting on it. that alone makes it worth the money i paid for it..... i won't goto 40psi if something bad happens or someone accidentally touches it

 

Loi happens to have a Profec B in stock so I guess it's going to happen to find it way into a box to me



thanks for the replies

 

Good Choice

i think the EBC like it you will

and you can put a sticky note on there that Says Do Not Touch !

and it can go for you too.

-Noah

 

ebc is nicer and easier to use...i have a blitz dsbc spec r for sale if anyone wants to buy it...im upgrading to power fc soon and need the money for it.. im asking 340 + shipping its used 1.5 months retails for 400

 

I'll give you $325 and come pick it up by saturday

 

Outside temperature swings affect you boost a lot if you use an MBC. So if you set your boost to 12psi on a warm day, and then go racing around on a cpold night you may see boost levels as I high 14 or 15. I know I do and I have to watch it. That's why I am thinking of upgrading to an EBC. I also like the idea that the EBC helps keep the WG closed until I hit the desired Boost level(spools faster).

 

remember that there are two kinds of mbc, mark decribed the bleeder (retarded) type, the joeP etc is a ball and spring which actually keeps the wastegate from seeing any boost until it reaches the preset point. This can help you spool faster because the wastegate stays completely closed at all times before you reach your preset level. For convenience nothing beats a good simple ebc like the early HKS EVC's or a profecB. I don't like fuzzy logic. For response however i like an mbc in my car, i'll probably switch it back out to the EVC eventually again, but right now the mbc is doing what i need it to.