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Aluminum Flywheel Q's Again

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Old 10-01-2003, 11:38 AM
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Chromoly is steel.



You would only resurface when changing your clutch.



The aluminum ones would be more expensive to make because they are several pieces of different materials attached to each other. The lightweight chromoly are just one material.
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Old 10-01-2003, 11:57 AM
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Originally Posted by TYSON' date='Oct 1 2003, 10:38 AM
Chromoly is steel.



You would only resurface when changing your clutch.



The aluminum ones would be more expensive to make because they are several pieces of different materials attached to each other. The lightweight chromoly are just one material.
That's what I thought.. loi got me a little confused. I think my bel-tone was off.
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Old 10-01-2003, 08:01 PM
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Mazdatrix offers both kinds, a semi-lightweight and the light weight with replacable friction center (requires flywheel). On my CRX it's only a pain when I drive and shift slowly but I can compensate for it by taping the gas in between shifts to raise the rpm's like I used to do on my crotch rocket. http://www.mazdatrix.com/flywheel.htm

http://www.mazdatrix.com/f-writng.htm
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Old 10-01-2003, 08:16 PM
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ACT has both middleweight (StreetLight) and lightweight (ProLight) as well but you would have to resurface them upon a clutch change instead of replacing the friction plate. I have no idea how many times a flywheel can be resurfaced. It does not mention a counter weight included or available. http://www.advancedclutch.com/V3/mainframe.htm
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Old 10-02-2003, 02:50 AM
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A quick side question on lightweight flywheels.



My dad was saying how getting a lightweight flywheel takes away from your low end torque, and that since the rotaries don't have that great of low end anyways, that it wouldn't be that great of an idea to upgrade to lightweight.



Comments?
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Old 10-02-2003, 03:55 PM
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I was thinking the same thing, any opinions?
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Old 10-02-2003, 04:55 PM
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yeah you lose engine momentum by going to a lighter flywheel. youll only really notice it when slipping the clutch from a stop and in between gears. a lighter flywheel accentuates one of the cool things about a rotary, the low inertia. it just revs faster and easier. you have to shift faster because the rpms will drop quicker. but it makes heel-toeing so much faster. i run a 9.5lb aluminum one on the street and its not bad at all unless you run an extreme clutch.



lets do a quick calculation:



400 for an aluminum flywheel that can be reused unlimited times for $100 every time



200 for a steel flywheel that can be reused once.



times number of clutch changes

Al 400 -> 500 -> 600 -> 700 -> 800 -> 900 -> 1000

steel 200 -> 200 -> 400 -> 400 -> 600 -> 600 -> 800



well i guess you never save money by going with a replaceable friction surface. of course this changes if you can resurface the aluminum one. i will be finding out very soon because im due for a new clutch
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Old 10-02-2003, 05:01 PM
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I run an aluminum flywheel on the street, it's fine for me. You just have to know how to drive.
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Old 10-02-2003, 06:21 PM
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btw, for those of you who havent seen the aluminum one before... this is the one I bought from racing beat, it's for a NA FC.





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Old 10-02-2003, 06:47 PM
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The ACT's for comparison. Not necessarily RX-7 flywheels, got them from Horsepowerfreaks.com





Pro-lite (lightest)





Streetlite (a little heavier)







You can see they are almost the same, they remove material around the outside, where it affects inertia the most.
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