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1990 GTU N/A build

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Old 08-31-2012, 12:31 AM
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Default 1990 GTU N/A build

Hey guys, I guess I've started this thread a little late, but it's good because I'm finally starting to do the work myself (by myself, I mean having people teach me while slowly learning what to do). I've got a 1990 GTU, I plan to keep it N/A, at least until it's time for another motor, and until recently, due to hour cuts at work, and my car being in and out of the shop for problems one would need a shop for, I have finally started.

My first step is to replace old parts, what's been changed so far:
(In the shop:
-Clutch
-Machined flywheel
-Pilot bearing
-Release bearing
-Thermostat)
Out of the shop:
-brake discs (Powerslot slotted rotors)
-brake pads (Hawk HPS pads)
-Master Cylinder (to be installed)
-Steel Braided Brake Lines (Russell brand, to be installed)
-TII Hood installed
-19" R-1 GTR Rims (some cheap-er looking rim, looking for new ones)
-Front strut bar
-Rear strut bar (to be installed)
-Gau Donq Lih shift **** (again, cheap-er)
-Ractive shift boot (came with the car, looking to change)
-VHT tinted taillights
-Sleepy eyes (played with the fuse and then removed it at the right level)

will try to keep updated, I'll try to get pics soon too
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Old 08-31-2012, 01:42 PM
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Default Re: 1990 GTU N/A build

Looking forward to see some pictures!
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Old 08-31-2012, 08:18 PM
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Default Re: 1990 GTU N/A build



















Also, removed all emblems, fixed the missing taillight bulbs, replaced broken wheel studs, and the spoiler wasn't on very well thanks to one of the previous owners, so it fell off while driving one day, I didn't even notice it fall off
Attached Thumbnails 1990 GTU N/A build-185074_10151016874825701_2014160554_n.jpg   1990 GTU N/A build-196058_10151017030290701_562999302_n.jpg   1990 GTU N/A build-484261_10151017029860701_1397375875_n.jpg   1990 GTU N/A build-556618_10151017469155701_1647164123_n.jpg   1990 GTU N/A build-578146_10151023771060701_231801135_n.jpg  

1990 GTU N/A build-532995_10150972261680701_1423867723_n.jpg   1990 GTU N/A build-579342_10151016874690701_1817421461_n.jpg   1990 GTU N/A build-574808_10150968840665701_621865083_n.jpg   1990 GTU N/A build-309242_10151207282325701_422817120_n.jpg  
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Old 08-31-2012, 08:27 PM
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Default Re: 1990 GTU N/A build

What needs to be done:
-New set of wheel studs
-Wheel alignment
-Speedometer/Odometer/Gas gauge stopped working
-New rear calipers (pistons have seized)

Now, when I drive, it feels like I can't find a comfortable sitting position for my feet, either my right foot is cramped against the gas/brake pedal, or my left foot can't press the clutch in all the way, any adjustment possibilities, or do I just have to cope? hahaha
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Old 09-01-2012, 12:42 AM
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Default Re: 1990 GTU N/A build

Looking good! I wonder what you will eventually do with your car.

Unless your seats are aftermarket ones, otherwise you shouldn't have seating issues (unless you're a big guy). I don't know, may have to just cope with it... =/
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Old 09-01-2012, 01:23 AM
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Default Re: 1990 GTU N/A build

Hahaha, nah I'm actually short, I think that's the problem, I'm just going to have to cope with it, but the next headache for now, is brake calipers, gotta order those in, which apparently that's going to be about 115$ per caliper, the upside to that though, while we're doing all that brake bleeding work, we can also do the master cylinder and installing the steel braided brake lines. Oh, and I messed up, as petty as it is, I said what needs to be done is wheel studs, I mean to say I need a new set of lug nuts.

As for what comes later down the road, I'd like to start with handling, as most kids around here do not do. I'd like to start with strut bars/sway bars/coilovers, make sure the car handles like a go kart first, then work on performance.
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Old 09-01-2012, 01:25 AM
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Default Re: 1990 GTU N/A build

Hey rx, do you have facebook? if so pm it to me haha
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Old 09-01-2012, 03:03 PM
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Default Re: 1990 GTU N/A build

Originally Posted by SonicBlue
Hahaha, nah I'm actually short, I think that's the problem, I'm just going to have to cope with it, but the next headache for now, is brake calipers, gotta order those in, which apparently that's going to be about 115$ per caliper, the upside to that though, while we're doing all that brake bleeding work, we can also do the master cylinder and installing the steel braided brake lines. Oh, and I messed up, as petty as it is, I said what needs to be done is wheel studs, I mean to say I need a new set of lug nuts.

As for what comes later down the road, I'd like to start with handling, as most kids around here do not do. I'd like to start with strut bars/sway bars/coilovers, make sure the car handles like a go kart first, then work on performance.
Yeah, calipers are not cheap.... also based on my experience and what Greg has told me, FC calipers has the tendency to seize for no particular reason. Something to do with the design... =/

Get a set of good aftermarket lug nuts, ones with key lock so you stay worry free later on when you change wheels.

Don't forget about bushings and mounts, it makes a huge difference.
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Old 09-01-2012, 03:41 PM
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Default Re: 1990 GTU N/A build

Bushings and mounts? for what parts of the car? Haha, engine/tranny mounts, and shifter bushings?
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Old 09-01-2012, 03:52 PM
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Default Re: 1990 GTU N/A build

Basically all the bushings on the car, such as front & rear control arm bushing, tie rod boots bushing, and front ball joint boot bushing... Energy Suspension sells a master set of bushing for our cars, you can look into that.

But if you have decided to go with aftermarket sway bars soon, then don't get the sway bar bushings from Energy Suspension, cause theirs are OEM size which will not fit. Aftermarket sway bars should come with their own bushings.

There is also this DTSS eliminator bushing you should get, makes the car more predictable when you take hard corners.

Mount wise, there are motor mounts, transmission mounts, and rear differential mounts. The mounts can go from either harder plastic, polyurethane, delrin, or solid (aluminum/steel) ones... all these are stiffer compared to the regular OEM ones.
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