CalebDanielCurtiss

88 rx7 SE 108,000 miles non-turbo and a/t

RB manifold, corksport catback exhaust 3" and HKS cold air intake installed

recently removed sub-zero tank and plugged the injector or w/e it is.



after being parked in the garage the tank was 1/4 full and it was 20[sup]o[/sup] F in MI this morning when it started . . .

just started today well after it warmed up i was driving normal going 60 in 4th gear about 2,500 rpm and just started sputtering and loss of power.

its been getting progressively worse the longer i drive and i have to keep rpms up at least 1,500 to keep it from dieing on me.

so i pull over when it gets bad wait and start it and maybe 5 min after driving it begins sputtering again the longer i wait the longer it takes for the sputtering to return.



i've looked for solutions and i've found maybe bad injectors or bad tps but it seemed those posts were not from ppl in these temps.



im kinda new to forums and this is my project car and first car that me and my dad are working on.

P.S. alternator pully is bad and squeals like a pig starting at 4k+

thatpoorguy

Welcome to nopistons, is it starting ok? What engine coolant temp is it at when it starts spluttering?

CalebDanielCurtiss

yeah its been starting the same as when i got it 2 years ago, and all my fluids are normal, i have new coolant about 60/40 cuz the winter and im about 500 to a new oil change and tanny is good.

im thinking that i maybe bumped the tps when i took off the sub-zero unit.



i'll test the tps tonight



i appreciate ur imput tho

CalebDanielCurtiss

thanks for the welcome. seems to start well some mornings after sitting over night i crank it about 10 secs wait 10 secs then crank and it starts on the second round.



the sputtering begins after its nice and warm.



and no smoke, could be a bad tank of gas but i ran it from full to a 1/4 tank from speedway 93 oct. and since i've kept it full from bp also 93

i've always used premium

Baldy

Have you ever changed the fuel filter?

thatpoorguy

Could also be a fuel pressure regulator. If it's stuck open fuel will drain back to the tank and at higher rpm's there isn't enough resistance to build pressure high enough.

CalebDanielCurtiss

The fuel filter was new when I got the car about 8,000 miles ago. I have another I could switch it with.



I'll take off the pressure regulator and make sure its making 60 psi I can use air to test it right?



It will be later tonight I get to it I'm out of the house

thatpoorguy

If there's a valve stem on the rail that's the easiest way to check pressure. Make sure your fuel pump is getting the fuel up there before you replace the regulator. I did an economics the other day with intermittent no start. Pulled off the fuel line and fuel was barely bubbling out. It needs to spray out with force when you turn the key to on. We replaced the pump and everything was gravy lol

CalebDanielCurtiss

ok i just started it this morning to run some tests, so far it hasnt started sputtering at all, maybe the water dissapated . . .

the pump is still working well and the pressure regulator is set to 40psi at idol and goes to 60 psi when reved

i checked the bac valve and it doesnt work

could that be the source of the problem?

thatpoorguy

I meant econoline in the earlier post. Stupid auto correct.



I'm unfamiliar with the bac, is there another more common name for it or what's it's purpose?