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https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683358.gif Ok this is actually very reverse from how this post should go. A kid in my genereal area has an 87 N/a. We lined up and he spanked my ass by two cars off the dig. I didn't start to gain ground until I hit mid RPM's in 3rd gear. This can't be happening to me! I mean granted he has 110,XXX less miles than me. PM me or anything with some suggestions. I know in all reality I should smoke this kid.....BAD. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683358.gif Urghh! HELP!!!!
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was his n/a stock? how bout yur TII?
time to rebuild that engine. you must have over 110k on it and hate to break it to ya but youve well past the optimum life of a 13bt. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/boink.gif |
Originally Posted by RotaryVillain' post='851181' date='Jan 2 2007, 11:48 AM
was his n/a stock? how bout yur TII? time to rebuild that engine. you must have over 110k on it and hate to break it to ya but youve well past the optimum life of a 13bt. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/boink.gif Both cars are stock and my car has 146,000 on it. I'm just afraid to tear into this engine at the moment.....I don't have the money or time to do it. What do you think is the cheapest/most reliable reman engine that doesn't require much work my part. |
https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...DIR#>/ohmy.gif here's what you need http://racingbeat.com/FRmazda2.htm add intake and full exhaust from racing beat (dpipe back) will add you over 60 whp (racing beat has dyno tested everything)
you will FLY past that n/a https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/boink.gif in regards to engine. your best/cheapest route is to keep your eye peeled on this forum and ebay for "low mileage" "rebuilt takeouts" from either wrecked cars or cars receiving swaps (20b or v8) unfortunately many rx7 owners seem to wreck their cars right after installing a new engine (many times they still have ALL paperwork cuz they're so new!) other times people go 20b or such . many times you can find somebody selling a nice (atkins,rx7.com, etc...) rebuilt engine for less than HALF the "off the shelf" price.- |
Originally Posted by RotaryVillain' post='851185' date='Jan 2 2007, 12:10 PM
https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...DIR#>/ohmy.gif here's what you need http://racingbeat.com/FRmazda2.htm add intake and full exhaust from racing beat (dpipe back) will add you over 60 whp (racing beat has dyno tested everything) you will FLY past that n/a https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/boink.gif in regards to engine. your best/cheapest route is to keep your eye peeled on this forum and ebay for "low mileage" "rebuilt takeouts" from either wrecked cars or cars receiving swaps (20b or v8) unfortunately many rx7 owners seem to wreck their cars right after installing a new engine (many times they still have ALL paperwork cuz they're so new!) other times people go 20b or such . many times you can find somebody selling a nice (atkins,rx7.com, etc...) rebuilt engine for less than HALF the "off the shelf" price.- I was just looking on Ebay and I've found about 3 of the low mileage reman engines. The price is right around $1,399 with tranny,wiring harness,ecu,turbo,intake manifold,exhaust manifold....you know everything. I didn't know if that was a better deal than what CORKSPORT offers for $200 cheaper. All I know is that I'm just gonna start a "Rx Retalliation Fund" |
make sure you DONT get a jdm engine (unless you PLAN on Definetly rebuilding it) those can be VERY hit & miss as far as quality and their warranties are generally bs.
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Originally Posted by RotaryVillain' post='851211' date='Jan 2 2007, 02:42 PM
make sure you DONT get a jdm engine (unless you PLAN on Definetly rebuilding it) those can be VERY hit & miss as far as quality and their warranties are generally bs. OK....no JDM engines then. haha Well there goes my cheap route(if there is such a thing). I hate to think of ordering an engine from ebay, but I guess it'll be my best bet,eh? |
146K on a T2 is not far beyond the life of a 13bt... we dyno'd 244whp on a T2 13bt block with 165K miles on it.. it just has to be maintained...
Do you have anything at ALL done to the car? gauges or anything? I'm just curious... if your car is all original, you can regain some lost power by running through and replacing the vac lines w/ silicon hoses, clean the injectors, check your turbo ..... does it have shaft play? how does the turbo inlet duct look? etc... dont waste money on big things until you check all the little things first... a cracked TID and bad vac lines can result in piss poor boost and power curves, etc... DO A TUNE UP, lol.. a stock T2 should beat a stock NA car when they are both original.. you dont need an upgraded exhaust to beat it.. unless your cats are clogged, lol.. that'll ruin your power too... check everything first! You can beat him.. unless he's a lot lighter and a better driver, lol... |
oh and yes, stay away from JDM and used engines, waste of money and time.. when your engine needs to be replaced, put a new one it.. trust me...
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Originally Posted by One320B' post='851633' date='Jan 4 2007, 07:48 PM
146K on a T2 is not far beyond the life of a 13bt... we dyno'd 244whp on a T2 13bt block with 165K miles on it.. it just has to be maintained... Do you have anything at ALL done to the car? gauges or anything? I'm just curious... if your car is all original, you can regain some lost power by running through and replacing the vac lines w/ silicon hoses, clean the injectors, check your turbo ..... does it have shaft play? how does the turbo inlet duct look? etc... dont waste money on big things until you check all the little things first... a cracked TID and bad vac lines can result in piss poor boost and power curves, etc... DO A TUNE UP, lol.. a stock T2 should beat a stock NA car when they are both original.. you dont need an upgraded exhaust to beat it.. unless your cats are clogged, lol.. that'll ruin your power too... check everything first! You can beat him.. unless he's a lot lighter and a better driver, lol... I have not done a thing performance-wise. I do have an oil leak though(loses a quart or so about every 1000 miles). That is the only thing I see that is of major importance. I would really like to get it on a lift to see where the leak is coming from. The car is almost impossible to get to idle under 1500 RPM and it doesn't like to start hot. Oh and by the way...I really appreciate everyones input! https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/bowdown.gif I'd really love to find someone near me that knows something about rotary's....ya know someone to talk to when I get stuck on stuff. If you guys have a hint as to where these OHIO rotards are......LET ME KNOW! |
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