Let me say that this is the way I have done it. I have had lots of success with this approach.

I am sure that some may have a different approach. I would actually like to hear about it if

you do it a different way. I get at least 2 PM's a week asking me where did I get mine done?

& How did you do it? So I believe this how-to is long overdue.



You will need a few supplies first. A bench top buffer

( www.harbourfrieght.com , if you dont have one )

Some #0000 steel wool, Wet dry and paper 220,320,400,600,1200,1500 grits. Lastly you will need the Tripoloy and White rouge polishes. They usually come in a stick. But the manufactuer may vary so they may be packaged differently.



Start your sanding with 220 till you remove all the casting imperfections in a piece. That means all the high spots and as many pits as possible. If you have access to a hand held electric sander that cuts the time of this job in half. If you have compressed air at your disposal you can use a grited paint remval wheel and a die grinder to take alot of the hard work out oft the beginning stages. You can also use greaseless compounds on a buffing or slap wheel. I use those most often. This will eliminate most all of the sanding using emory paper. Then there is the old fashioned way starting with the 220 sandpaper. So basically after you get the imperfections out with the 220, The next step is to remove the scratch marks left by the 220 grit using 320 grit. Repeat this process all the way through to 1500 grit. By the time you get that far the part will really start looking and feeling extremely smooth.



Now rub them down very well with the steel wool. Really rub it hard , you will see if start to shine up from that alone as the surface gets flatter.



Now the buffing. Use two fresh buffing wheels when starting. apply the polish to the wheel while it is spinning. Tripoly on one wheel and white rouge on the other. (keep these seperate) Tripoly is first. You want to use nice smooth passes holding firm pressure at first against the wheel with the piece. You can keep this up until you get it fairly shinny. Make sure that you keep the piece moving or you will burn the polish and it makes it harder to feather out. Like I said firmly then lighter pressure to feather it out.

After you feel happy with that. Rub the piece out with the steel wool.... DONT BE SHY....... Clean off the left over polish debris. Next you will repeat the entire buffing process but this time with the white rouge. Be patient and you may need to repeat both buffing coumpounds several times to get it smooth. You can use water in a spray bottle and that helps alot. You only want to wet the part every so often. You should get the feel for it. With a little determination you can get a chrome like finish that will make you the envy of the town. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683894.gif........... Good luck



-Dave

My y pipe, I posted this to give you an idea of just how clear the piece should look when your done.

Notice there is almost no haze in the reflection.

is there something to coat the metal so it stays shiny..

Hmm some type of wax or a coat of polish? Like the stuff we use on the car's body mayb? https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/dunno.gif

Or dip it in chrome! Bling!

I think I have an issue of hot rodder where they used some product like this.. I will have to look for it and post what I find..

Not that I know of. Polished parts require maintainance.

I use "Simichrome" every few weeks.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/pho...0699/40668.gif



I'm just following up for everyones benifit.

This is the type of buffer you will need.

Buy this one here for a mere $60 and polish all your parts.



At this link you can get the polishing compounds and wheels for the buffer.

I can suggest you get some Svelt rags also. They seem to sell those as well.



Don't buy the Red Rounge or Jewlers rouge.. it sucks https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png



Tripoly and White are the ticket. :bigthumg:

This product here is by far the absoulute best thing I have ever

used to keep up with the polish. This stuff is so good you could

almost use only this sandpaper and steel wool.

I highly recomend picking up a tube of....

http://www.antiquesupply.com/graphic...702001-250.jpg







Yes this stuff kicks the **** out of Mothers..http://www.antiquesupply.com/prod-jewelry-cleaning.html

great write up :bigok:

i might have to pick me up one of them wheel buffers there this winter.

t-78

another of the Y

Wow thats sweet! thxs for the writeup, i shall attempt to polish all my manifolds.

I have a polishing video from www.eastwoodco.com and showed some kinda clear paint coating to protect the shine.. I'll try to find out what it is..

here it is...



Eastwood Diamond Clear Metal Aerosol 12 Oz



http://www.eastwoodco.com/aspfiles/itemdy0...+Z&Dep_Key1=spc



http://www.eastwoodco.com/images/P6991.jpg

okay, so you used this buffer to get the cast markings off as well? how do you get into the small crevices like the "greddy" letters on the TB elbow? is it just impossible? i noticed that greddy doesnt poslish those things very well. haha. rough parts everywhere!!



paul

okay, so you used this buffer to get the cast markings off as well? how do you get into the small crevices like the "greddy" letters on the TB elbow? is it just impossible? i noticed that greddy doesnt poslish those things very well. haha. rough parts everywhere!!



paul[/quote]

A dremel can do it...

You will sand most of the imperfections out. The buffer will get the rest.

The little bit that it misses wont even show. Trust me.



You see the flange on my y pipe isn't perfect but who cares, the rest looks

so damn good your eyes never even focus on anything else.

Jayspec7 how did they use that spray?

They just sprayed a light coat on the polished area...

If anyone is interested please contact me. Polishing is alot of messy work and takes a long time. We do it for a reasonable price and you can see the results in the pics.

I agree that it takes alot of patience to do this stuff.



There is no shame in paying someone to do it for you.. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png

:yum: damn that is so sexy!

I rubbed this out with a flannel rag and some Mothers.

I'll still put on the buffer though https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png

2 caveats

1) Aluminum dust is toxic. Try to avoid inhaling too much of this stuff.

2) You need to periodically buff/polish the polished pieces to maintain the shine. Sometimes Chroming is a better idea(e.g. alternator).

I couldn't agree more. The alternator was serious PIA to polish and I would never do it again.

So everyone go and get chrome ones so I can have one of the only polished ones https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...DIR#>/wink.png

I had no idea that the dust was toxic. I have breathed in so much of that **** I should be dead by next tuesday and I will be leaving my car to vosko. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png



Good bye all you donkeysss arggh hh choke caugh%^ argh.. hard o breath589 kh



thump. Im dead https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...>/blackeye.gif

AKA JaySpec7... :bigok:

That's why you apply high temp clear coat.. . :bigthumg:

My bad.

I didn't read all the replies before replying.

I'll try that on my polished pieces.



BTW, very nice engine bay!

could someone who has never done this before, do it with the sand paper, a dremel tool and a full days work? ie. the UIM, i would like to polish mine, myself https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png unless someone in the Houston, TX area wants to come down and help me :bigthumg:

I started doing my UIM w/ just sand paper.... whoa... have fun!!! you'll be there forever!!! You may get it to shine, but it won't be as nice..

You'll definitely need the buffer after the sandpaper..

Damn, I started sanding, that **** takes forever, but I have time to kill, so I will do it till I have it all done in 1200 grit, then polish that sucka till it blinds me.. Unless someone wants to sell me an already polished FD intake..

Yea just buy one man, save your finger tips. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...DIR#>/wink.png https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/blink.png https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/wacko.png

I just redid and clear coated the alternator. I take a pic tomorrow. It's vey money, your gonna love it. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...DIR#>/ohmy.png https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png



Here is a pic of my LIM for a teaser, this is polished and clearcoted with special polished metal clear. (no yellowing or flaking )

bet that was a quick job

It wasnt to bad. I stretched it out over two days. about 1 1/2 hour total.

I only had to rebuff, clean and spray it.

Is that clear coat resistant to heat? LIM is pretty close to downpipe for some of us. I'm thinking I may go the polished finish ceramic coating on the intake manifold pieces.

nice work.. i'm glad you tried the clear coat.. looks great

Yea thanks a million for the tip on the clear https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...DIR#>/wink.png

It worked out very well.

i just did my y-pipe and should have a pic up soon!