Radar/ladar Detector/jammer
#2
Only a handful of detectors are the "best", argueably the Valentine One is "The Best". Surprisingly, Radio Shack brand detectors are strong and effective. Most detectors have a rear facing 'window' that allows for some reception of radar/lidar. Usually the rear facing 'window' appears as a clear plastic nub protruding from the top of the detector housing. Most often, the rear facing detection is limited to laser/lidar and does not include radar.
Radar and Laser jammers are tricky.
The only legal version is what's called a 'passive' jammer. This means that the jammer detects a radar frequency, then emits a lower, interfering frequency that is intended to be delivered along with the returning radar waves. This is meant to confuse the radar device. They do not work for several reasons, some more obvious than others.
On the other hand, 'Active' radar jammers can be built, but are in fact illegal. An 'Active' radar jammer can emit a constant 'wave' of radar that is near a preset speed-corresponding frequency. You build the jammer out of parts, and it will emit a 55MPH-equivalent (or whatever speed you choose) frequency, and sweep the frequency range up and down 100Mhz from the preset signal. These work for two reasons: Emitted waves are stronger than the reflected waves of the originating device, and the "sweep" of the frequency will compensate for variance from device to device, making it more effective in many circumstances. Optionally, you can build an active radar jammer that is triggered by the output of your radar detector (triggered by the "beeep"), and it will emit a very specific frequency (as opposed to a fluctuating one) until it is manually reset. This method is less likely to be detected BY the police, but may also be less compatible. Active radar jammers are typically large in construction, due to the equipment required, such as a microwave transducer and a horn antenna. Also, their effectiveness varies with the vehicle. A vehicle with a larger radar profile may be more difficult to cover with a single active radar jammer.
No experience with the 'wave detector' thing.
Radar and Laser jammers are tricky.
The only legal version is what's called a 'passive' jammer. This means that the jammer detects a radar frequency, then emits a lower, interfering frequency that is intended to be delivered along with the returning radar waves. This is meant to confuse the radar device. They do not work for several reasons, some more obvious than others.
On the other hand, 'Active' radar jammers can be built, but are in fact illegal. An 'Active' radar jammer can emit a constant 'wave' of radar that is near a preset speed-corresponding frequency. You build the jammer out of parts, and it will emit a 55MPH-equivalent (or whatever speed you choose) frequency, and sweep the frequency range up and down 100Mhz from the preset signal. These work for two reasons: Emitted waves are stronger than the reflected waves of the originating device, and the "sweep" of the frequency will compensate for variance from device to device, making it more effective in many circumstances. Optionally, you can build an active radar jammer that is triggered by the output of your radar detector (triggered by the "beeep"), and it will emit a very specific frequency (as opposed to a fluctuating one) until it is manually reset. This method is less likely to be detected BY the police, but may also be less compatible. Active radar jammers are typically large in construction, due to the equipment required, such as a microwave transducer and a horn antenna. Also, their effectiveness varies with the vehicle. A vehicle with a larger radar profile may be more difficult to cover with a single active radar jammer.
No experience with the 'wave detector' thing.