painting a car
11-24-2005, 02:43 PM
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 248
sand everywhere that is painted... be carefull about the front and rear bumbers as they are rubberish, start with about a 120 grit or so and lightly ruff over everything, try not to scratch over the seals or black painted area of the rear hatch or the tailights ect. then work your way up the grit levels of the sand paper... 120, 180, 220,....ect. ect. all the way up to 600, go in circular motions. once you get to the 600 grit, thats when you start your wet sanding... get a spray bottle of water and lightly wet the area you are sanding with the 600 grit, (make sure it is a wet sanding pad). theres obviously more to that than what i have said but thats the basics and that the bland version. your car might need some bondo or some dings removed and what not. there are some things you can paint on your car that will make it look alot better. take your windshield wipers off (12 or 14mm bolts i cant remember withc) and take the wiper cowl off (4 philips head screws) sand each wiper arm and the wiper cowl down with a high grit (300-600 grit) whatevers available primer it and spray paint it with engine enamel black. if you have 86-88 tail lights with the black housings if you can tape the lenses off good enough do it to the tail lights too... its the little things that make a car look good. another good thing to paint if you have rims is your inner fender wells black or use rubberized undercoating in a spray can, makes the car look cleaner.
12-09-2005, 07:11 PM
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Columbia IL/St. Louis MO
Posts: 2,748
You really can't describe it. I could NOT do what Rob did to Kev's car. It's alot of hard work. I have seen FD3Boost paint bumpers, hoods, fenders, etc. and THAT seemed like a pain.
There can be so many snags in the process you would not know what to do.
There can be so many snags in the process you would not know what to do.
12-09-2005, 08:22 PM
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Columbia IL/St. Louis MO
Posts: 2,748
Originally Posted by Rob x-7' post='785166' date='Dec 9 2005, 08:32 PM
exactly, one can say to clean, sand, etc..
but once there is a problem then what?
how do you describe how even minute variations from procedure can **** up a the whole job?
Exactly, what an amateur thinks is smooth, would not even be close to what a pro expects. I want to learn it, just to learn it, the whole process. It's the same thing over and over again, but you just have to be really **** about...everything!!
I would like to do pinstriping also, is there anything I could practice on Rob? I thought it always adds a nice touch to cars, etc. (if you know what to start with that is? haha)
12-10-2005, 09:11 AM
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Delaware
Posts: 682
Originally Posted by rowtareh' post='785180' date='Dec 9 2005, 06:22 PM
I would like to do pinstriping also, is there anything I could practice on Rob? I thought it always adds a nice touch to cars, etc. (if you know what to start with that is? haha)
it's crazy. would probably take me several hours to run a single pin stripe down just one panel of a car..
i watched the body shop guy throw on a dual pin stripe down my car on just the quarter panel in less than 2 minutes... it was perfect.. amazing.
12-10-2005, 04:13 PM
#10
Super Moderator
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Amityville, New York
Posts: 12,288
you can practice on cars if you want, those one shot enamels wipe off pretty easy with some reducer. Get some of that magnetic pinstripping guide stuff to help you out, some real good, and expensive pinstripping brushes and your set.
Keep in mind wholesale price for pinstripes is about $75, you need to get alot of accounts to make any money with it.
Keep in mind wholesale price for pinstripes is about $75, you need to get alot of accounts to make any money with it.