My New Paint Sucks!
#11
Front snout and rear bumper need flex additive because of the material they are made out of. It looks like someone smoked the paint when they cut and buffed the car, maybe a rookie was running the wheel, at any rate your are most surly due some repair and repaint for that job.
#12
for starters the paint should have been dry and hardened, before you got the car back... which would have taken maybe 4-6 hours, it looks like there was NO prepwork involved, looks like he shot it out of a can, and finally there is no clear on there... Him buffing it surely didn't help matters, I'd say bring it to me and I'd do it right, I'm in Joplin, MO it's about an hour drive, or if you want I can give you some info, I have a brother that's been in the business for 12 years that will gladly point you in the right direction.
#13
I agree with everyone else. Obviously no flex adhesion promoter was used. Thats not even the worst of it. I don't see any primer or clear there. I would assume that he sprayed it with Acrylic enamel if that is what you wanna call spraying. But for $600 you got what you paid for.
A real paint job is more like $3-$4k for a decent job. It can go up from there dependant upon the shop.
A real paint job is more like $3-$4k for a decent job. It can go up from there dependant upon the shop.
#14
Depending on what you want painted (just the top layer, or the whole chassis) a good paint job will run you about 1K for the top, and about 3-4 for every nook and cranny.
Sorry, but you got FUCKED. For far less money and a bit of effort and patience, you could have probably done it yourself in a garage.
Sorry, but you got FUCKED. For far less money and a bit of effort and patience, you could have probably done it yourself in a garage.
#16
Basically what everyone else has said, ans in order to do it all right again, the car will have to be completely stripped of the **** paint you have, and start from scratch. Sorry you had to learn the hard way, but as the saying goes, you get what you pay for.
#17
in the pics you can see everything he did
1st pic shows some primer on the bumper and some
cracks in it as well, from a impact
2nd pic shows the bumper again with those cracks
as well as how he painted right over the chips.
Either the bumper was repaired before
or you hit something. No amount of flex will stop the paint
from coming off in a impact, it helps for light taps.
You can also see he used no primer for the lower part of the bumper,
not a big deal because a plastic bumper in good condition doesnt
need MORE primer, it will actually make things worse.
the hood pic is nice, you can see his white primer, the oem primer
the red base, and the clear- there is clear- you can tell by the
drivers side where it looks like 2 shades of red. Simple
enough to tell- wax a part of it and see if the rag is red
or not.
the 1/4 panel pic shows what looks like a classic example of laquer primer
or paint swelling the new paint up. Sometime in the past I would say there
was a repair done there, and now its showing its ugly head.
you got a $600 mess, no busy shop will want to get involved with
a mess like that, its not worth it. It will end up costing you more
then $600 to get it removed. Anyone can learn to swing a gun in a few
weeks, a good painter is someone who can properly prep the surface, knows
how to mix and apply the products, and knows how to deal with problems
as they arise. And more importainly- would never let someone take
thier car away looking like that piece of **** you have there.
It actually looks like a maaco paint job, you sure he didnt send it there
and pocket the change? Ask him what primer and paints he used
1st pic shows some primer on the bumper and some
cracks in it as well, from a impact
2nd pic shows the bumper again with those cracks
as well as how he painted right over the chips.
Either the bumper was repaired before
or you hit something. No amount of flex will stop the paint
from coming off in a impact, it helps for light taps.
You can also see he used no primer for the lower part of the bumper,
not a big deal because a plastic bumper in good condition doesnt
need MORE primer, it will actually make things worse.
the hood pic is nice, you can see his white primer, the oem primer
the red base, and the clear- there is clear- you can tell by the
drivers side where it looks like 2 shades of red. Simple
enough to tell- wax a part of it and see if the rag is red
or not.
the 1/4 panel pic shows what looks like a classic example of laquer primer
or paint swelling the new paint up. Sometime in the past I would say there
was a repair done there, and now its showing its ugly head.
you got a $600 mess, no busy shop will want to get involved with
a mess like that, its not worth it. It will end up costing you more
then $600 to get it removed. Anyone can learn to swing a gun in a few
weeks, a good painter is someone who can properly prep the surface, knows
how to mix and apply the products, and knows how to deal with problems
as they arise. And more importainly- would never let someone take
thier car away looking like that piece of **** you have there.
It actually looks like a maaco paint job, you sure he didnt send it there
and pocket the change? Ask him what primer and paints he used
#18
he used the paint code rh sunrise red, but as far as everything else, I dont know. Unfortunately, the guy who fucked me on the paint is also the ONLY ROTARY MECHANIC in tulsa, so I can't just go around pissing him off. If something else breaks, I'm screwed-you catch my drift. But thanks for verifying that I did get screwed over on this one.
#20
Originally Posted by Srce' date='Jun 13 2004, 12:15 AM
For far less money and a bit of effort and patience, you could have probably done it yourself in a garage.