Bling Bling
12-30-2002, 12:29 PM
#11
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: SV, NY
Posts: 2,066
Originally Posted by vosko' date='Dec 30 2002, 01:25 PM
i have no idea it looks plastic LOL
you almost match my bling....no.... there can be only one lord of the blings !!!! :bigthumg:
you almost match my bling....no.... there can be only one lord of the blings !!!! :bigthumg:
As long as I have this...
12-30-2002, 03:29 PM
#12
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: SV, NY
Posts: 2,066
Thanks guys... It's really not that hard.. just messy and time consuming... but here is some info..
Parts listed:
Craftsman 8" buffer (115V motor, max 1-1/2 hp and 3,450 rpm, 5/8 in. shaft with 3-1/2 cast-iron flange.)
Buff rake
White Rough compound
Tripoli compound
Aluminum polish
Sander and or sand paper 80 - 400 Grit
Dremel w/ sanding/polishing bits
Resipirator
Face Shield
Overalls w/ hood
High Temp Clear
first of.. is taking the rough surface off and get it smooth. This was definitely the hardest part!! What I did was sand down the part w/ 100 grit using a sander and sand as much as I can all the way to 400 Grit... and use either sandpaper or a dremel to get the hard to reach places... BE VERY CAREFULL when using the sanding drum for the dremel!! This set me back some time since it added more pits into the metal which later had to be sanded smooth again...
An alternative is greaseless compound which I had no luck with... basically you run this compound to your buffer, wait 15 mins to dry and whala.. sandpaper.. Also there is something called an expander wheel, which is sandpaper on a wheel for your buffer..
Once you sand everything down to at lease 400 grit you can use the buffer... I used an 8" spiral wheel w/ Tripoli compound to cut all the scratches and worked into the metal... after a couple of passes, you should start to see the metal shine..
After, I used an 8" Loose wheel w/ White rough to shine up the metal.. make a couple of passes and you'll see the nice chrome look shine!!!
You can now hit the part w/ aluminum polish then spray it with a light coat of clear to protect the finish and reduce oxidation for ease of maintanance...
NOTE:
Please use protection... this process is messy and compound is flying everywhere.. if you work in your gargage, keep the windows or garage door open and make sure you work away from where your workbench and valuables are... I used all the protection, but made the mistake of not opening any doors or windows and ended up breathing the compound... I lost my voice for a day.. oops I also worked right near all my shelves and tools.. there is a film of compound everywhere... not to mention how messed up you look if you don't wear the right clothing and eye wear...
If you have any more questions please don't hesitate to email me or repliy...
Place to purchase..
www.sears.com for buffers, protective gear, dremel and accessories
www.eastwoodco.com for buffers, compounds, greaseless compounds, buffer accessories, protective gear, high temp clear coat, dremel and accessories
www.homedepot.com
There are many other techniques on achieving this project.. but these are just my suggestions...
Parts listed:
Craftsman 8" buffer (115V motor, max 1-1/2 hp and 3,450 rpm, 5/8 in. shaft with 3-1/2 cast-iron flange.)
Buff rake
White Rough compound
Tripoli compound
Aluminum polish
Sander and or sand paper 80 - 400 Grit
Dremel w/ sanding/polishing bits
Resipirator
Face Shield
Overalls w/ hood
High Temp Clear
first of.. is taking the rough surface off and get it smooth. This was definitely the hardest part!! What I did was sand down the part w/ 100 grit using a sander and sand as much as I can all the way to 400 Grit... and use either sandpaper or a dremel to get the hard to reach places... BE VERY CAREFULL when using the sanding drum for the dremel!! This set me back some time since it added more pits into the metal which later had to be sanded smooth again...
An alternative is greaseless compound which I had no luck with... basically you run this compound to your buffer, wait 15 mins to dry and whala.. sandpaper.. Also there is something called an expander wheel, which is sandpaper on a wheel for your buffer..
Once you sand everything down to at lease 400 grit you can use the buffer... I used an 8" spiral wheel w/ Tripoli compound to cut all the scratches and worked into the metal... after a couple of passes, you should start to see the metal shine..
After, I used an 8" Loose wheel w/ White rough to shine up the metal.. make a couple of passes and you'll see the nice chrome look shine!!!
You can now hit the part w/ aluminum polish then spray it with a light coat of clear to protect the finish and reduce oxidation for ease of maintanance...
NOTE:
Please use protection... this process is messy and compound is flying everywhere.. if you work in your gargage, keep the windows or garage door open and make sure you work away from where your workbench and valuables are... I used all the protection, but made the mistake of not opening any doors or windows and ended up breathing the compound... I lost my voice for a day.. oops I also worked right near all my shelves and tools.. there is a film of compound everywhere... not to mention how messed up you look if you don't wear the right clothing and eye wear...
If you have any more questions please don't hesitate to email me or repliy...
Place to purchase..
www.sears.com for buffers, protective gear, dremel and accessories
www.eastwoodco.com for buffers, compounds, greaseless compounds, buffer accessories, protective gear, high temp clear coat, dremel and accessories
www.homedepot.com
There are many other techniques on achieving this project.. but these are just my suggestions...
01-05-2003, 04:12 PM
#16
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Ontario, CANADA
Posts: 306
That's beautiful Jay... Excellent job.
But, how much did all of this stuff cost you? Maybe a rough tally of receipts or something?
And after you spray it with a light coat of clear, do you have any idea as to how long it'd be before you had to repolish?
But, how much did all of this stuff cost you? Maybe a rough tally of receipts or something?
And after you spray it with a light coat of clear, do you have any idea as to how long it'd be before you had to repolish?
01-05-2003, 09:56 PM
#17
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Due to global Warming, the new hot spot.........Canada
Posts: 1,211
Originally Posted by TKO' date='Jan 5 2003, 02:12 PM
That's beautiful Jay... Excellent job.
But, how much did all of this stuff cost you? Maybe a rough tally of receipts or something?
And after you spray it with a light coat of clear, do you have any idea as to how long it'd be before you had to repolish?
But, how much did all of this stuff cost you? Maybe a rough tally of receipts or something?
And after you spray it with a light coat of clear, do you have any idea as to how long it'd be before you had to repolish?
If you do this it will turn it to an extreme haze........Instead you have to basically have the up keep of the parts to a maximum.
Polishing with a compound cleaner maybe once or twice a month keeps the shine, and the oxidation off.
cheers
Shawn
01-06-2003, 03:41 PM
#19
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: La Plata, Maryland
Posts: 9,725
More on this topic for those who enjoy this sort of thing and have not found the 3rd gen FAQ's yet.
https://www.nopistons.com/forums/index.php?...=ST&f=66&t=8827
https://www.nopistons.com/forums/index.php?...=ST&f=66&t=8827
