If I buy a 1987 Ford Mustang with 120K miles on it, then proceed to buy a supercharger kit for it. Maybe throw a set of headers on and some other goodies. Then maybe a 20% pully on the spuercharger.



I think I should be able to get about 400 to the wheels.











How long do you think the engine will last??

Is it becoming too easy to choose what to drive in the morning, you need to throw another rig into the mix LOL



Yer gonna be like me, walk to the garage, look at the bike, look at the truck, look at the car, start to get confused hide in a corner.

Well adding a ton of HP to a motor with 120K miles will probably end up breaking something before too long I would think. Though if it breaks sooner than expected, no big deal, you'll have to rebuild it anyways. I'm curious, how many miles would you see if you had a new motor and built it up like that? 150K maybe?

Jim I had a beautiful mustang I would have given you a year ago! LOL 5.0 Motor only had 65K too.

My buddy in WA did that with his 89, he got about 6,000 miles on it, but he beat the **** out of it.

65K miles?? Too low.. I need to see over 100K miles before I start to mod the hell out of it. That engine is too new.





BTW - I am not doing this it's hypothetical. I am making a point here. Have you figured it out yet?

I haven't figured it out. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683561.gif I'm not even sure what day it is though either.

V8 swap joke? Am I close?

i believe he's venturing into debunking the whole "rotaries love to pop" myth.



kevin

Ding Ding Ding!!



I was podering some tuning options on my wifes car. Not planning them just wondering. I looked at the odomter...hmmm.. 50K miles.. almost too many. Wait! Its a Piston car and I am thinking 50K miles are too many??



People buy RX-7's every day with 100K + miles on them and start modding the hell out of them. Then they pop and they are pissed???



ANY Engine with high milage has no business being highly modded especially forced induction.



Agree?

makes sense.

i think hes trying to get the point across the black electrical tape on harness's is a great idea.

Yeah, people sometimes forget that these engines are at least 10 years old - any engine is pretty worn at that stage, let alone one that produces 200bhp/litre.



Mark

i could destroy a low-mileage mustang motor in a month, easy...

That makes sense to me. And actually with a piston motor there are so many more variables due to more parts being stressed.

its why my 1st gen lasted 5 years and still runs

with me behind the wheel

it touched 10k on a couple occasions..lets see a mustang do that **** https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683785.gif

its not a good idea to go doubling hp on anything old but sometimes you get lucky

i see spun rod bearings in your future jim https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png

My TII didn't get any mods until probably around 100K when the previous owner put the T04b, RB exhaust, MBC, Walbro pump, 720 secondaries, etc... on there. It lasted until 140K that way when his friend got a little too crazy with it and blew the engine.

Well what is the average lifespan of a 13B-REW? From what I see most 3rd gen owners are replacing their stock motors at 70,000 miles or so. Although I believe this to be more of a result from the fact that the engine bay is so clutered it's hard to get a good airflow to the rear rotor housing. That and that they upped the compression again and increased the boost. Jim do you have a 13B-REW manifold or is it an actual 13B-REW? I'd be interested to see how a STOCK 13B-REW would do in a 2nd gen considering there is less crap in the engine bay to get in the way of airflow. Of course that takes money, money that I don't have and that most people aren't willing to spend.



- Hand

modding my n/a, I feel like I'm just letting it retire in a nice s. fl condo, rather than breathing through a tube and wearing a diaper.

im modding my 13b n/a at 200 000kms?

I do know of many mustangs with bolt ons, cams and heads with over 200k on them



most people with half a brain dont put $4000 in mods into a car with 150k on it, only people with no clue who think they can beat the system.



or they are figuring let me buy all the parts and get it going, when the engine blows up then I can just swap all my parts over.





I dont get the profone hate for engine swaps, does it really bother you THAT much?

well im not colon is

Yes, its a 13b-REW and it cost a small fortune to put in there. I had it rebuilt / Street ported on Dec. 15th 2003 and it has been running strong at 15 PSI for over a year without a single problem This includes Autocrosses and other grueling events in the extreme Floirida heat. It will soon see the open track again we'll see how it does in those cirumstances too.



Like I said above "especially forced induction". An N/A will do fine with an intake and full exhaust. Start screwing with power adders and your asking for a blown engine. i.e. NAWZ!.

my fd has 93334 miles on the original engine, it runs fine, 2 things. it wasnt beat on, and most fd owners dont understand the basics of the car. btw the record for an rew motor is i think around 190k larry something, really pissed off guy

How many miles do you have on the motor so far Jim. I can imagine the difficulties involved with getting that motor in the engine. I would be interested though to see how long it makes it as it has sufficient modifcation, but also has the added benefit of being under that hood with less crap to get in the way and with a more consistent cooling apparatus.



Like I said from what I've HEARD most 13B-REW's were replaced at or around 70,000. The other obvious factor relating to this that you brought up is how it was treated and also how it was maintaned. I haven't heard or seen enough 3rd gen stories to know them as I mainly stick to my little fc.



- Hand

G2G,



It really doesent have anything to do with airflow to the rear rotor, but if you ment hot running temps and two torches bolted to the motor I would agree with you https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png



Now, the 13b-rew in my black rx-7 lost compression at 38k. Everything inside looked brand new. However, the last owner drove it .5 miles to work every day. That kind of abuse (not letting the car get fully warmed up and cooled down) will hurt any motor...



the motor in my red car was 10k old when i got it. I put another 4k on it, beating it every time I drove it. I then singleturbo'ed the motor and put another 2k on it, beating it again. The motor still has 100psi compression on all faces! It's all about how you maintain.



I am going to take the motor apart for a port here soon, but i'm also going to be putting a lot more stress on it (more boost + n20)

On 2nd gens the rear rotor is the most likely to lose compresion or blow a seal first because it doesn't get as good of air flow to it as well as not enough fuel, from what I hear this is the same on the 3rd gens. While the cooling system does it's job it isn't able to overcome the increased heat temperatures that the rear rotor sees. Think about it, before getting to the rear rotor the air must first pass through the radiator then through the intercooler then across the front of the motor next past the front rotor housing, across the side plate then finally to the rear rotor. By now it has absorbed much more heat and thus isn't able to cool as effectively. Add all the various components, emmisons, turbos, power steering, ac pump etc, which diverts air flow and you may have a reduced amount of air reaching the rear rotor housings, which doesn't help either. Someday hopefully when I get a good laser thermometer I'll go out for a spirited drive and then measure the temperatures on both the front and the rear housings. I'm guessing that between this site and rx7club someone has probably done this and has readings although it may be hard to find. I'm just too damn lazy to go searching for it right now.



- Hand

The airflow to the motor does not really affect temps to the degree you are thinking. The rear runs hotter because the coolant route, the front rotor gets the coldest coolant.



On the FD the rear rotor's intake tract in the manifold is much straighter, making it run leaner and hotter then the front rotor as well.

The problem with stock FD's is the turbos + precats. The precat gets glowing hot and when you shut it down that heat rises into the back turbo (already cooking) and then heats the **** out of the rear rotor.



The rear rotor gets a lot of abuse like rfreeman27 said because of the coolent flow too. It doesnt help matter that a pair of blow torches are bolted on to it too.

You'd be surprised at the temperature differences. If you take the stock underbody cover off the FD you'll notice that you will run hotter. Airflow plays a major part. But if the rear rotor on the 3rd gens runs leaner due to the runner design than I would think that would be the larger factor playing into them grenading quicker than other generation 7's. And if the precat causes that much heat exchange than that will effect it greatly as well. Regardless I will still be interested to see how many miles Jim can get on the motor, then compare it to an fd with similar mods.



- Hand

when we used to run the fd up in the hills, you can get to the top open the hood and the turbos are glowing enough to see the studs holding it together. those turbos are the reason the -rew doesnt last very long.

Yeah, Removing the belly pan diverts air away from the rad/ic, which are the things actually cooling the motor! Do you think that the FC gets much air to the motor to make any difference?



It doesent really have anything to do with actual air hitting the motor.

If you fabricate an underbody tray that covers the bottom of the engine bay and design slits in the back to dissapate the air, you will find you have lower under hood and running temps because the airflow is concentrated in a certain area and has no other way to flow but out of it. I think the REW would run lower as far as cooling temps in an fc because you have a larger air space, and less crap cluttering the air flow. But like I said since you guys have just brought up something that I didn't know before about the turbos running so extremely hot and the intake runners design which promotes lean conditions in the rear rotor, I am forced to believe that those two components effect the motor more than the airflow. That's why I want to see what the difference is really like by comparing an FD with similar mods to Jim's. Although I believe most likely Jims will be put through a harder test considering that from what I understand he autocrosses and I guess roadraces often, which will subject the motor too much different conditions than the daily drive to work or the store.



- Hand

thats another difference, the fd oil cooling DOESNT WORK below about 20mph. i put an oil temp guage in my r1 and it just pegged if i was below 20mph, but above 40mph theres nothing you can do to make the oil temps go over 180f

You're reading way too much into this. It has NOTHING to do with V-8 swaps. I have said before I dont like them but who the hell am I to tell you what to do with your car?? Its your car do what you want.



My point was that, here I am contemplating chipping the ECU, upgrading the turbos, upgrading the exhuast and adding a better intake to the wifes A-6 2.7T some day and making it an M-3 killer. Then I looked at the odometer and it reads 50K miles and I think, "****! Thats too many miles to be boosting the hell out of this car the engine might give out."



Then I thought:



"Damn! How many people buy Turbo RX-7's with over 100K miles on them and immediatly turn up the boost add some bolt ons and double the horsepower. Then 6 months (if that) later the engine pops and they scream and yell Rotaries suck?"



It really has nothing to do with a V-8 swap honestly. It was more of a "this is why Rotaries get such a bad rap" thread.

after looking at working on my mercedes, i have no idea why people think piston engine are even a good idea.....