This was my first time using it although I've seen the end result before. Having an inboard motor in a boat requires that you paint the motor on a somewhat regular basis in order to keep it from rusting away. I had a few spots starting to break out and I decided I would try POR-15. I started with the cleaner degreaser which was nothing short of amazing, within 5 minutes it had removed diesel fuel from the engine, rinsed it right away with fresh water. Next is the metal ready prep treatment, I have no idea if it does it's job or not but it etches the metal. After that you let it dry and go to town with the paint. The fumes will give you one hell of a buzz, i had the engine room hatch open, fan running you name it and I'm still cross eyed. First warning comes now, you CANNOT get this **** off your hands if it dries, even says it on the can, none the less I managed as I always do to be covered in the ****, it will supposedly come off in a week or so. Solvent won't remove it.... like the can says. This stuff goes a LONG way, I bought a gallon, did one coat on the engine and transmission with less then a quart of it. Stuff looks really nice, it isn't UV stablized so they recommend you paint over it with regular paint, being in the engine room I am not sure that I will paint over it I dunno we'll see. I jsut want the the engine protected. I have not doubt this **** works, it seals out any air or moisture which is what you need to rust and it's appears to be bulletproof. The guy used it on my Benz in the areas where the drains are and where they often rust, it has no rust He also did in on the engine bay wheel wells and it it's holding up marvelously.



Anyone else used the stuff? I was pretty skeptical at first, but I must admit i am very impressed.

 

I have not, I was fully prepped for rusty floors in the vert from all those years of a leaky top and thought I was

going to end up buying a can of the stuff, but luckily the floor was in great shape!



I think the fact that I popped all the rubber drain plugs out helped it.

 

Yeah, I've used some on the Nova. It seems like a good product. It's been a couple of years now since I did the front subframe, and I don't see any spots where it's bubbling yet. I used their chassis black as a topcoat and it came out looking pretty darn nice, and I'm an absolute amateur when it comes to painting. I'll have to find a pic or go out and take a new one. After I blow the dust off the damn thing.

 

Yea the motor is gray now, the stuff is not UV stabalized, but it won't be in the sun. That said I think i am going to paint over it with their engine enamel, i'm hoping they have something like the old ford blue as that matches the perkins paint perfectly.

 

I did the floor pan on my P-port fc about 8 years ago. Its still good and rust free.. I got some on my hands, and I basically had to live with it for about a month till it wore off...

Humidity seems to make it dry faster, here its dryer than a popcorn fart, it took almost 10 days to cure, then it rained and hardened.

I still have the can, wonder how long it keeps for.

Its like a brushable ceramic coating.

 

**** i hope it aint a month man, i got this **** all over me, i even have some paper towel glued to the paint then to my hand, i look like a freak!



Humidity must make it dry fast, I painted it and within 2 hours it was dry, the engine room hatch was open and the engine room is not a/c'd except when i work in there so it's as humid as you can get without it raining. I just finished cleaning up from the second and last coat, I'll snap some pics if Rob promises to be nice LOL



it does give you one hell of a buzz, but i am a believer.

 

I'm not one to make light of another's misfortune, but HA HA!



I've heard the stuff takes a while to wear off your skin. And you shouldn't be painting without proper ventilation and a respirator.

 

Party pooper.

 

I think the reason this paint takes so long to dry is the same reason it covers so damn well, i think it has hardly any solvent in at all, this **** is all paint solids

 

try some baby oil and rubber gloves to see if the **** will fall off.

Wear the gloves for like a hour or two so your hands sweat up good.