Buying An Rx-7
07-27-2003, 08:17 PM
#21
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: La Plata, Maryland
Posts: 9,725
Originally Posted by Eric Happy Meal' date='Jul 27 2003, 01:30 PM
ehh DSM's are poop. well i want an FC and i dont want to have to worry about the engine crapping out on me before i either go with the 20B in it or an FD. so id like it to last about 4 years or so with spending as little as possible on it.
Lets just say that you cant afford it from reading your posts about " how cheap can I do something.. yadayada"
So now that you see that is not an option for you.
I would suggest that you get a salvaged title bare bones FD.
Restore it over a long period of time.
That way you get your fast car and it wont cost you an arm and a leg.
(Realistically speaking Fd's are not expensive cars like they once were)
Not to say that modding them doesnt cost alot.
If you learn to watch the internet and get some good sources you can do things for a resonable amount of cash.
Reliability issues are mainly in the engine running temps.
Luckily for the Fd, it never really had any strange electrical bugs or such.
Realiability for cheap? You guessed it. I say that just about any fd these days still on its original engine will have a coolant seal failure at 60k or there abouts.
You cant expect those seals to hold up for ten years.
So you can improve air flow over the engine by removing engine bay weather stripping. Removing unnecessary parts such as emmisions equipment, stock air boxes. You can also stuff foam around the raditor to block any air by-passages that might let the air move around the radiator core as opposed to through it.
A down pipe is a must at any price.
Swap to non sequential to illiminate the possibilty of boost spikes, and add open space to the engine bay by removing the rack and its associated plumbing.
Thus improving air flow over the block. (anyone notice the lack of parts mounted on top of the Renisis)
Vacum hose replacemnet of stock lines is also a must, not an option IMO.
I could go on, but its the same old song anyway.
The best advice I can give you is to get a manual and use it.
Also its still just a car so dont over complicate simple problems.
Try not to forget the simple stuff like changing the oil every 2500 miles
and fiters (oil/air/fuel) to boot. The grounds should be upgraded also...
So on and so forth.
-Dave
07-27-2003, 08:58 PM
#22
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 0
thanks dave for the info. im not tring to be cheap about the car. i just want good, reliable , horse power. when i do get the 3rd gen im going to swap out the motor with a jdm one and new trans. i will upgrade the radaitor with a bigger and and intercooler along with a downpipe and exhaust. just to start! i was talking to a guy here in town about doing away with 90% of the vac. lines and check valves. is this a true statement or just some B.S.?
07-27-2003, 11:19 PM
#24
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Toledo, OH
Posts: 736
Originally Posted by rotormotorhead' date='Jul 27 2003, 09:58 PM
i was talking to a guy here in town about doing away with 90% of the vac. lines and check valves. is this a true statement or just some B.S.?
Good luck.
07-27-2003, 11:40 PM
#25
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Cincinnati, Oh hi hoe!
Posts: 2,286
Originally Posted by rotormotorhead' date='Jul 27 2003, 09:58 PM
thanks dave for the info. im not tring to be cheap about the car. i just want good, reliable , horse power. when i do get the 3rd gen im going to swap out the motor with a jdm one and new trans. i will upgrade the radaitor with a bigger and and intercooler along with a downpipe and exhaust. just to start! i was talking to a guy here in town about doing away with 90% of the vac. lines and check valves. is this a true statement or just some B.S.?