build your own sports car...

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07-29-2008, 11:20 PM

#21

Lynn E. Hanover

Fabricator

Join Date: Jan 2004

Location: Central Ohio (Hebron) Zephyrhills Fla.

Posts: 1,322

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lynn E. Hanover' post='905544' date='Jul 29 2008, 05:02 PM

Here is another gag on building upper A arms. Don't. Just drill out the upper ball joint hole to 1/2". Make up two lengths of 3/4" water pipe, or EWR steel tubing.

Turn down two 1/2x20 long lug nuts leaving a shoulder about 1/2" from the end. Press the nut into the tube and weld.

install a sleeve on a 1/2" bolt. Slip the bolt through two rod ends screwed into the lug nuts. Another sleeve and through the hole on top of the spindle. Big nut tight as possible. Mount the opposite ends on tabs about level fore and aft and a bit lower than the outer ball. Instant upper A.

I can make drawings of anything if you need them.

Lynn E. Hanover

I found this picture of the early version of the latest Chassis. This one has Mustang II front spindles. Drilled at the top for 1/2" bolts. Drilled and tapped at the bottom for 3/4" by 20 for bolts through the

3/4" rose fittings from Coleman. These spindles are just slightly bigger than Pinto spindles.

In my case, I slipped the tubular stub axels from a quick change rear over the spindle and TIGed it in place. So, I could use the rear hubs all the way around. One spare hub fits anywhere. Also ungodly strong, light and bolts to any 72 fin by 12" by 1/14" rotor. Enough to stop a 747. I picked this shot because you can see the two simple rod end tubes forming the upper "A" arm, rather than a construct of some sort. Quick, strong and can produce any camber gain you might want. Same pieces on the car for

7 years now. I got this Idea from Jerry Mong, who used it on all of his Bobsey sports racers. Before you were born probably. The second shot is me and the finished chassis. Just 135 pounds with the belly pan.

All SAE 4130. Looks a bit like a Lotus.

Lynn E. Hanover