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How To: Cosmo 13b Rew Into An Fd

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Old 04-29-2003, 08:32 PM
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Cosmo RE better than the REW? Yes and no...Yes in that the primary and especially the secondary ports are MUCH larger than the FD's. Now, whether or not the ANGLE of the ports is better is up to debate, but they're very similar. FD's have several important updates, mainly revolving around the oil system. The FD stationary gears have nine-window bearings, meaning they have nine holes where oil gets through to lube the bearings. The Cosmo has three stock. Additionally (related), the Cosmo stationary gears are not hardened. If you didnt' know, the bearings are IN the stationary gears. Simple solution? Switch to FD gears. The oil pressure regulator in the FD has a higher pressure than the Cosmo (13B RE).



On the exhaust side, the Cosmo has extremely restrictive exhaust sleeves. The actual exhaust port opening is identical to the FD but the FD sleeve is much larger. Why not just port the Cosmo sleeve? Because it's HOLLOW. Ask me how I know :-) Swap them out for the TII or FD sleeves. They're identical.



Lastly, you'll need custom engine mounts. As of yet, I have no definitive source for them but I'm working on it. Dragon, any help here from the land of the rising sun?



Dragon, you're probably right...I did port the FD lower intake manifold substantially so it shouldn't be too bad...for the time being, I need to get the car up and running. I "may" experiment with the Cosmo intake system but it'll require a custom fuel rail (available from K2RD.com btw) and a lot of other items. The cosmo intake, while having larger runners, uses a plenium-style intake while the FD's is a more modern thinking pulse wave tuned type. I've talked to a few drag racers using them on 9,8, second cars and apparently it produces more torque. Might be good for the street. I'll try and post some images here soon. Motor is going together over the next few days. Damn, watching MotoGP on Speed TV...memorial to Daijiro Kato who died recently racing at Sugo in Japan. Very sad. The things we do for speed.
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Old 04-30-2003, 12:15 AM
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lol, I answed your question on the OTHER forum.. last night..

of how to mount the 13B RE in the FD go see..



http://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.ph...threadid=181093



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Old 06-07-2003, 05:15 PM
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Ok, three months later, I finally have an update! The good news is the motor is in the car using custom made motor mounts. More good news, these mounts will be available throuch Compact Car Performance in Naples, Florida. They're fairly simple, made out of cast iron and triangulated on the passenger's side (and we may triangulate them on the driver's side too). It bolts to the engine in three locations, two on the rear plate (just like stock cosmos) and one on the intermediate plate. I'm the guinea pig but they look strong enough considering the factory mounts are aluminum. Everything is being checked over and it should be up and running tonight (Saturday) and ready to go by Tuesday morning. Then comes the long, arduous 1K mile break in proceedure before I can slap it on a dyno and start tuning fuel. How about a few pics? Here's an "overall" of both sides at once. Engine sits in the same location, same height, etc...
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Old 06-07-2003, 05:16 PM
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Another pic of the passenger's side, looking at it from the front of the car. you can't see where it extends forward and connects to the intermediate plate. Oil pan gets in the way.
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Old 06-07-2003, 05:18 PM
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Damn, that image came out a bit bigger than I thought it would Another shot from the rear, passenger's side
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Old 06-07-2003, 05:22 PM
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So...along with everything mentioned above, you'll need to use the new motormounts and you'll also have to use the stock FD oil pan. Because the motor mount bolts go through the oil pan, you'll have to weld those holes shut. Additionally, you'll use the FD front cover, pully, and oil pickup. Sounds like a lot of work and it was for me and Compact Car but most of it revolves around swapping parts during rebuilding. One could just throw it in there unmodified internally. See the how to port sticky post for pics of the finished ports. Oh forgot to mention...the lower portion of the motor mount (flexible, damper part) is the FD's lower. Just reuse them. Estimated cost for the motor mounts will be somewhere around $200-$250.
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Old 06-08-2003, 01:27 PM
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That seemed to work out pretty well Michel.

I am curious what made you decide to do a 13bre?

Also what are the benifits of such a swap?



Really good job with the documentaion, gee one would think that you are pro journalist or something
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Old 06-08-2003, 01:53 PM
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LOL, originally the reason was the stock larger ports. I was just planning on throwing the engine in, unopened, unmolested, as I was told the short block would bolt right in. It was a short term answer until I could gather everything for the three rotor swap I have planned.



The shop convinced me to open her up however, and once that happened there was no turning back. Then I saw the "how to port your engine" series and the rest is history :-)



The real value of using the Cosmo, especially the plates, is the port size. Even if you maxed out the FD ports, they wouldn't be as large as Cosmo ports maxed out. Since I have quite a large turbo, the larger secondaries will really come into play judging by what others have experienced with the same turbo. That and the initial cost of an engine is about $500 to $600 cheaper, sometimes more. everything except the stationary gears and exhaust sleeves are identical to the REW FD engine (shaft, rotors, etc...).
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Old 06-08-2003, 10:53 PM
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I am curious what kind of work went into changing out the sleeves?

Are they pushed out with a press like bearings??
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Old 06-09-2003, 01:09 PM
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The sleeves are not too hard to remove...you'll need to read Ito's post on that topic...essentially they're held in on either side by small pins which need to be pulled. Use a TIG welder and feed a bit of the line into the pin itself (it's hollow) and blast it with electricity. Then place another bead on top of the first bead and then one more...pull with pliers and it'll come right out. Might take an attempt or two. The sleeves slide right out after the pins are removed. Again, you can use FD or FC sleeves. So if you have a few trashed housings lying around, pull those exhaust sleeves!
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