Haltech Injector Wiring

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12-17-2004, 12:50 AM

#21

RETed

Senior Member

Join Date: Nov 2002

Location: Honolulu, Hawaii USA

Posts: 925

Quote:

Originally Posted by banzaitoyota' date='Dec 16 2004, 07:56 AM

You can purchase a racheting crimper with a set of dies for ~ 45. While not mil-spec it will produce a gas-tight crimp.

Cheapest ones I've seen are the MSD ones.

$50 for the crimp tool (it's not ratcheting) and the dies for spark plug crimps.

Additional crimp dies are about $30 for a set.

They make a set for "AMP" pins and another set for GM Weatherpak pins - that's $100!

When I get the money, this is one of the first things I want to get - this should make Haltech flying lead harness installs a LOT faster.

Right now I manual crimp the pins with either a needlenose or a wire cutter and then solder over that...not the best, but it works.

I've seen a mil-spec racheting crimper that will ratchet down and will not release until it hits the proper clearance.

This thing was $100!

And that was for a cheap one!

Quote:

Any metod of connection has its pluses and minus's. IMHO the quality of a solder joint is highly dependent on the SKILL of the solderer. And from what I have witnessed in production items (Specifically the Haltech Flying Lead Harness) I AM NOT IMPRESSED!!!!! Soldering when done CORRECTLY is great: BUT there are many variables that affect the finished product. Which is why I prefer crimps for MOST applications.

Well, Haltech harnesses are not the best (worst) example.

I've pulled enough of them apart to cringe also.

But, I won't dissect the stock Haltech harness unless the customer insists on it or if we run into weird wiring problems.

Quote:

By using the proper tool and die, a quality crimp and quality wire I have ELIMINATED most of the variables. Therefore: If I use the correct size connector and test pull the crimp I am done.

I do this to with crimp connections, but I've never liked the idea of pulling on them to test it's strength.

Quote:

I look at the economics of it like this: Is it worth popping a high $$$$$ engine over a $100 investment in tools?

That's a good point...

Quote:

On the relay: Got pics.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Yack, most of them are buried, but I'll see if I can take a pic for you...

-Ted

12-17-2004, 02:27 AM

#22

Dramon_Killer

Senior Member

Join Date: May 2003

Posts: 1,784

Since we're talking about harnesses, i'm gonna ask a quick question.

I started wrapping my harness with electrical tape. I'm not really sure about how to do this. But after I got everything sized I bundled it together and wrapped it in electrical tape. Then i put it in that plastic electric loom shizzle and and wrapped taht in electrical tape as well.

12-17-2004, 03:01 AM

#23

kahren

Senior Member

Join Date: Jan 2002

Location: CT

Posts: 1,345

i woudl suggest for most people to crimp instead of soldering, since it is safer. most poepl can not solder even if their life depended on it. like banzai said, poor solder joints fall appart and even faster with vibration. overtime they will also fall apprt, you have to have a long term experince with solderign to make proper solder joints.

having said this i think i am gonna go take my haltech harness out and check it out, i think the problem i am currently havign with this car migth be in fact teh harness.

12-17-2004, 07:12 AM

#24

banzaitoyota

Super Moderator

Join Date: Jul 2002

Location: My BIG ol TURBO-DIESEL

Posts: 5,181

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dramon_Killer' date='Dec 17 2004, 03:26 AM

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Not the way I would have done it. Commonly available Electrical tape has an adhesive that does not fair while in the engine compartment environment. Exposure to heat and chemicals causes the adhesive to "ooze" which makes the tape unravel.

My **** retentive method (For What its worth) .

Wire is bundled using either Ty-Wraps (GOOD) or Lacing Cord (Better, but a pain in the ***)

A high temp Spriral wrap is placed around the bundle to provide an air gap for insulation

The harness is then wrapped in F4 Tape, which is Self Vulcanizing Silicone wrap that needs no adhesive to work.

Then a Black Harness sleeve is slid over the harness. Same stuff as comes on the Haltech Harness

After that is done the harness is supported away from all hot surfaces.

12-17-2004, 10:17 AM

#25

j9fd3s

Senior Member

Join Date: May 2002

Location: California

Posts: 22,465

what i did on my own harness last time was get the routing and zip tie it up, and in a couple places i put the courregated wrap over it so it wouldnt abrade, ran the car for 6 months or so, and then pulled it out and banzaiwrapped it.

this allows me to easily fix a problem, or change things; i left a lot of leeway last time to change stuff because the car never stays the same for long.

i went from an e11/20b to a stock ecu 13bt in a weekend