Midnightdriver

OK while trouble shooting why my 13B-RE swapped FC would not start. Someone put 12v 225 amp (start selection on batt charger) to the batt. All the electric in the car went CRAZY, gages boost controler, TT everything. We got the problem down to the starter. I replaced starter today. I go to connect my laptop to the ecu..does not connet. I check to see if haltech is getting power, it is not. I find that the 3amp ecu fuze is blown..replace. Ecu still does not communicate with laptop..I pull the air temp sensor connector and the Map sensor and check for voltage and nothing. Ecu is getting no power...so again the question does this sound blown to you as well?

phinsup

U checked to make sure that you actually had 12 volts to it after you replaced the fuse right? Just wondering if the fuse blowing was a sign of possbile melting or shorting a wire upstream.

j9fd3s

yeah id go check all the fuses

GreyGT-C

which haltech is it? Damn it... i'm too drunk to remember the ****** names of them at the moment. the one that came right before the E10 (no smart asses... it's not an E9) was VERY sensitive. voltage spikes would eat them like a drunk midget at a $2 ***** house.... actually, i don't even know what the **** that means. but they would fire easily.







You most likely fryed it.





were they called e6k's???? or was it e6x's? something like that.



































PS Scott loves goats.

C. Ludwig

You could hook up a power source that is capable of supplying 1000 amps and that alone would not cause the problem. It will only give the amps the electrical system draws. Check to see that you have power to the Haltech and check to see if you have power to the turn on lead at the Haltech.

GreyGT-C

they was actually a warning about the E6K's (from rotary extreme i think) about not hooking up a battery charger to the car while the ECU was plugged in.

Midnightdriver

Thanks for the replys guys. This is what I found. Taking advise I rechecked fuzes, none fried except the one I replaced already. I checked for 12v on the supply wire for the ecu yup 12v. Then I checked for 12v at the ecu fuze yup 12v..so ecu is fired. NOw my question is does haltech fix fudged ecu's and how much..

OH Its an e6k Shannon

GreyGT-C

yes, haltech WILL fix it.. i dont remember the price though... i shitcanned an E6A years ago but since it was so old, it wasnt cost effective to fix it. I'd contact Ari at Rotary Extreme in TX and he can point you in the right direction.

C. Ludwig

Just call Haltech USA. 760-598-1941



The charger warning has nothing to do with the ability of the charger to supply a large amperage dose. A battery has the ability to supply well in excess of 200 amps. Just like the charger there needs to be something capable of drawing that kind of amperage for it to supply it. The text that applies to battery chargers in the E6K manual says, "Do not charge the battery with a 24V truck charger or reverse the polarity of the battery or any charging unit". Correctly hooking a battery charger to a battery connected to a Haltech system WILL NOT damage the system. Something else happened here.

Midnightdriver

your right it was the 18.5v that got pumped to it . I already talked to Eric at haltech. I just need to send it to them for repair. If they can't fix it then off to Aust. it goes. Either way the car will be sitting for a while now.