A buddy of mine did these runs in my car while I was in Okinawa a couple of months ago. Thanks again moremazda. All I have (that I know) is a intake, 3" exhaust, Walbro pump, and Profec B. The Profec doesn't even do much with all my massive boost creep (not sure why but it's probably multiple issues causing this). This was done at 15#.

Here's an a/f readout. Not too lean, but could be better I guess. It is stock for all I know but I have my suspicions about that.

265rwhp is NICE!!! mod list https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...DIR#>/wink.png

You want a mod list. I'll have to write one up.

yes please

ur taking to long with the modding and the listing

dont make me tell u about the listing again

holy ****! ur engines about to blow a/f 17!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

that's HP.... it would pop around 15.... even less depending on how advanced the timing is

I'm sure I've forgotten something.



Exterior:

Stock (not including body damage from SUV’s)



Interior:

Momo “Race” Steering Wheel – 320mm

Omori Boost Gauge – 46mm

Omori Dual Water/Oil Temp Gauge – 52mm



Drivetrain:

ACT Heavy Duty Clutch Disk

ACT Heavy Duty Pressure Plate

Indigo 9.5# Flywheel

Stainless Steel Clutch Hose



Brakes:

Brembo Slotted Rotors

EBC Brake Pads (Red and/or Green Stuff compounds – depending on the situation)

Stainless Steel Braided Brake Lines

ABS disengaged



Engine:

Blitz SUS Intake

GReddy Profec B

Knight Sports Fuel Cut Defender

Silicone Vacuum Lines

Walbro 255lph Fuel Pump

Mazdatrix Stainless Steel Oil Cooler Lines

Throttle Body Mod (see fc3s-pro.com for details)



Exhaust:

RS*R Frontpipe 76.3mm

MagnaFlow Presilencer (part #12219)

CorkSport catback (first few inches cut off to make it a true 3” setup)



Suspension:

JIC FLT-A2 (7k/5k springs –f/r) – Japanese market valving

Suspension Techniques Sway Bars

Mazdatrix Adjustable Sway Bar End Links

Racing Beat Rear Steer Eliminator Bushings

GReddy Front Strut Tower Bar

Cusco Rear Strut Tower Bar

GAB Lower Arm Bar

Energy Suspension Polyurethane Bushings

K2RD Rear Camber Link



Wheels\Tires:

Nissan R32 Skyline GT-R rims (8JJx16 offset+30)

Yokohama Advan AVS Intermediate (225/50R16)



Etc.:

Redline MT-90 Transmission Fluid

Redline 75W-90 Diff Fluid

Redline WaterWetter Coolant Additive

Castrol 20W-50 engine oil

Castrol LTM brake fluid (same for the clutch)

A/C Removed

P/S Removed

Cruise Control Removed

Emissions Removed

Stereo/Speakers Removed

Various other bits removed as well





The sad part is I'm not even close to being done. I've got a tons of stuff to go under the hood to get me well over 300rhwhp on a hi-flo turbo from BNR Supercars. There's just never enough time on the weekends.

hey you should a picture of the "other" side of the car... bummer I never got to see it run, at the auto-x at Cheny stadium...

so you made 260rwhp on the stock turbine and stock engine ??? wow.... my TII was pushing like 230rwhp....

those skyline rims look nice

Thanks for the compliments. I try to keep it simple. Form over function. Those rims are OE rims off of a 13 year old car that costs these days well under $10k (unless you go to Motorex and pay 3x~4x what they are worth in Japan). Most R32 GT-R owners have already bought replacement rims and have no need for the stock set. I got this set that was in pretty good shape for about $500 when I was in Japan back in 2001. The front offset is too much for a stock car, but with swaybars and extra camber dialed in, the fit in snuggly and don't rub. Keeping the sidewalls about the same as stock makes it nice around town.



No, I will not show the driverside (damn SUV's :rant: ) :redface:



Those 259~265 runs were at 15#. At 12# it was pushing 250. It is a stock turbo, that I am sure of. With a stock i/c (for now) and stock turbo it is pushing too much hot air for it's own good. But that'll all be taken care of soon enough. But there have to be 720cc secondaries and some sort of chip to make them work smoothly. I looked for a chip a while ago, but nothing looked out of the ordinary. At least it wasn't marked as anything special. I've never had the injectors flow tested. Why bother I figure. They work and this is my daily driver, so it's not really feasible or even makes much sense to find that out. I'm not too sure what the previous owner did with this car, but it wouldn't surprise me if he did do that. Without the big exhaust last year, it only put down 187 to the wheels and was running extremely rich. That should have told me something wasn't normal with this car. It had a CFDF clutch in it when I bought it. Not exacly something that a non-enthusuast buys to replace a worn out stock piece. The engine is not original, but I don't know how many miles are on it or who built it. It doesn't have any porting as far as my friend with a ported '89 T2 can tell. He said it felt like his old powerband prior to his streetported engine, only more of it.



I run at as many autocrosses and lapping days as I can go to and this car has yet to let me down. Two and a half years and counting. Hey, it runs well so I'm not complaining.

sweet...



did you get the JIC suspension in japan? (Japanese market valving)



i might have my gf pic them up for me...

250 is alot for stock turbo!



my car was putting down like 230-250 with upgraded T04 compressor on it.... damn.... good numbers man!!!

Yeah, I got the JIC's in Japan. I was told by Rishie on the other forum that the Japanese market get them valved a bit stronger. They feel fine to me. The best I've seen them over here is just over $1600. They are quite a bit cheaper over there if you get them from a place that can offer them at factory direct prices.

lemme know when you wanna sell it LOL https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...DIR#>/wink.png

ohh ic the a/f ratio still looks lean in the midrange 14ish. nice setup though and impressive #s

im here too. great numbers on that turbo

what do you mean that's HP?



it says, air/fuel ratio, and maximum 17.5



splain lucy https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...DIR#>/wink.png

that graph is for both a/f and hp. That line is for hp, the lower one if for a/f.

that graph is for both a/f and hp. That line is for hp, the lower one if for a/f.[/quote]

ok so throughout the run it says the a/f ratio is ok but why the hell does it say max a/f ratio is 17.5?

cause he let off the gas...... let off gas = super lean LOL

yah you need to fix that lean spot in the midrange, i bet it would pick up a little power there too

nice car!



mike

Yeah, yeah, I know, I know. :redface: That's why I payed extra for the wideband O2 usage. So I'd know what going on with my fuel. Once I get all the stuff on it that I want to do, I'll be shooting for a flat 12.5:1. That should make it Goldilocks good (so it's just right https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...DIR ). This dyno day was just for a power check. I wasn't around that day. My friend (moremazda) took my car in to do this.

yeah, i meant it like now you know what your next mods should be. i think it would pick up a little mid range whne you fix the afr



mike