1Revvin7

Nice Unit... even helped drop the oil temps. Zero oil leaks is nice too



Just have to weld on a shield to the subframe..

Maxt

Looks good, how much does it raise the motor?

1Revvin7

3/8" of an inch I believe...



I am thinking of mass producing a similiar unit here in the shop. One that has provisions for the stock low oil temp gauge, and isn't as low as this unit. Also one with trap doors and nice baffling inside. These really aren't that hard to make. I've got another one- off unit on a sandrail motor here too..

Signal 2

Better sealing and larger volumn for the track is probably great. And like you, I'd definitely want a sturdy skid-plate if I had one.



But if you have an oil pan brace, decent oil coolers and a healthy cooling system I don't know....I'm not really seeing the value of these on a streeted car. ??

1Revvin7

I have used the oil pan brace before, this unit works a lot better at making sure you don't have a leak. It is O-ringed. However if you have a non R1 street car, I'm thinking this might be the way to go instead of getting another Oil cooler. Especially if you put the intake in place of the second oil cooler..

Maxt

3/8 of an inch is quite a bit to raise the motor, did you measure before and after driveshaft angles?

The adding cooling benefit is attractive, but I think another cooler is probably the way..

Signal 2

I'm not familiar with the Xcessive pan, but the typical oil pan brace raises things about 3/16....so that could be a type-O if they're anywhere near the same.

For the 3/16 inch raise, it never caused any real issues with the drive shaft angle on my car...there's at least that much adjustment in the PPF anyway. And it's pretty easily corrected by milling 3/16 off the iron motor mount arms.

1Revvin7

I'll take a look into that when the car comes back for tuning. I didn't see any that would cause a problem, but I could be wrong..



Like signal said if so easy fix, could just put in some aftermarket mounts and trim them down..

Signal 2

Yes, sorry I forgot. I have Noltecs and that's not an option. But with most aftermarket mounts you could just trim those down too...for an even easier fix.

Maxt

Yup, thats usually what has to be done with a baffle plate as well, both FD and FC, on the FC you can knock the cup out on the pass side mount to get it back pretty close...

Not to many people pay attention to driveshaft angle, but at highspeeds it shows up as a thrumming noise, and mazda ujoints aren't a plug and play affair to fix after the fact.