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Would You Pay $2000 For The Best Ic Made?

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Old 01-22-2004, 11:47 PM
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If I told you I could make a liquid / air IC that....



1. Under daily driving conditions at its worst would have the air temps of a very good FMIC or Vmount (but probably better).

2. Would NOT heat soak

3. Does NOT block air flow to the radiator so the coolant would be like a SMIC

4. At the track or really anytime you choose just add $1 of ice and get SUPER cold temps.

6. Has pressure drop of only .15 at 700CFM and would be efficient up to about 600+rwhp or maybe a little more

5. Would look REALLY bad *** with a very uncluttered nice looking design thats unlike anything you've ever seen

6. Would fit with a stock or aftermarket radiator, the stock battery box, and probably any intake out there including box type.

7. Would install much easier than any other high HP IC being sold



HOWEVER, it would retail around $2000 to make it worth while for production due to all the components of a L/A IC and some other nice (and expensive) features that make this one so nice....like it not heatsoaking.



At this time I cant really say much more about it and its not even close to ready to sell. I'm just testing the water to see if this product was available is there any market for it.



How many people would actually cough up the money for it?



Thanks,

STEPHEN
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Old 01-23-2004, 12:03 AM
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I would drop that green without loosing an ounce of sleep over it for a product like that.
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Old 01-23-2004, 12:18 AM
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i would have to be 100% sold on the features stated above...
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Old 01-23-2004, 12:19 AM
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i wont buy that for the constant change of water.......... that water will get very warm
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Old 01-23-2004, 12:37 AM
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Originally Posted by FikseRxSeven' date='Jan 23 2004, 06:19 AM
i wont buy that for the constant change of water.......... that water will get very warm
Nope, now with this design its not.....



But at this point I cant really say much about it except to hint "thermal insulation" to block out engine bay heat....Which is what causes l/a setups to eventually get warm. The box usually absorbs tons of heat for the engine bay (much more than the heat exchanger can handle) and eventually it heats up the water. This setup wont have that problem. The "thermal insulation" product is very expensive and one reason for the $2000 price tag. All the heat exchanger will have to deal with is the heat from the IC and with the system holding 2.5 gallons of water and having a good high flow (and quite) magnetic drive pump (which doesnt put heat into the water) its going to be awsome



STEPHEN
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Old 01-23-2004, 01:19 AM
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Wouldnt that be alot heavier than a air/air front mount?? were would you mount it aswell?
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Old 01-23-2004, 01:45 AM
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Its prob going to be about 10-15lbs heavier than a FMIC, but provide WAY better air cooling and not affect the coolant temps. It would sit about where a M2 medium sits. Its not very big....its about the size of the M2 med.



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Old 01-24-2004, 02:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Srce' date='Jan 23 2004, 01:03 AM
I would drop that green without loosing an ounce of sleep over it for a product like that.
yea you so need an i/c right now.



kevin.
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Old 01-25-2004, 01:35 PM
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Originally Posted by SPOautos' date='Jan 23 2004, 01:37 AM
Nope, now with this design its not.....



But at this point I cant really say much about it except to hint "thermal insulation" to block out engine bay heat....Which is what causes l/a setups to eventually get warm. The box usually absorbs tons of heat for the engine bay (much more than the heat exchanger can handle) and eventually it heats up the water. This setup wont have that problem. The "thermal insulation" product is very expensive and one reason for the $2000 price tag. All the heat exchanger will have to deal with is the heat from the IC and with the system holding 2.5 gallons of water and having a good high flow (and quite) magnetic drive pump (which doesnt put heat into the water) its going to be awsome



STEPHEN
i meant warm as in....... its cooling the charged air (warmer than engine bay), so of course the transfer of heat from the charged air to the cooler water will eventually heat up the water... actually it will heat up the water fairly quick.



think about it...... when you place a pot of water on a stove... doesnt the water boil? lets say you have this setup, you're gunna be ruling out long drives and extended cruises from your car.



i agree that this system has the capabilities of cooling a lot better than air/air ic...... but it will be a pain in the *** if you also use your car for more than just drag racing
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Old 01-25-2004, 06:04 PM
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Originally Posted by FikseRxSeven' date='Jan 25 2004, 07:35 PM
i meant warm as in....... its cooling the charged air (warmer than engine bay), so of course the transfer of heat from the charged air to the cooler water will eventually heat up the water... actually it will heat up the water fairly quick.



think about it...... when you place a pot of water on a stove... doesnt the water boil? lets say you have this setup, you're gunna be ruling out long drives and extended cruises from your car.



i agree that this system has the capabilities of cooling a lot better than air/air ic...... but it will be a pain in the *** if you also use your car for more than just drag racing
Thats all just up to the efficiency of the heat exchanger and making sure your heat exchanger can evacuate as many BTU/hr as the water is sucking out of the core.



The reason you dont see many street driven a/l setups isnt really due to the heat from the IC, its when you stop at a red light or go in a store for 30 minutes and the engine bay heat attacks the water and gets it super hot (escpecially since the heat exch isnt doing anything when still).



The streetability of a a/l setup really depends on 2 things, making sure you have a heat exchanger that can pull the heat out.....and keeping the engine bay heat from attacking the water.



In reality, your statement about long trips and such isnt all that valid because if the problem comes from the IC's heat(as you suggested) then thats ONLY when you under boost. The reason a/l IC usually heat up on long trips is just from engine bay heat attacking them (your not running boost all the time)....but like I've mentioned I think I've got that prob fixed



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