AgentSpeed

All right I'm wanting to wire my dual stage boost controller up for good. Usually when I need a power wire in other cars, I just take it off the battery but I want the power to be cut off when the key is out. Is the fuse box labeled this way or am I just going to have to test and see? I haven't looked yet...



To further explain my set up:

I'm using the factory fog light switch as my on/off selector switch for my dual stage boost controller instead of the arming switch with the huge red cover (too ricey). I've also got a small LED light that is going to come on to signal that I'm on the high boost setting. If I leave it on the high boost setting when the car is off, I want to make sure my LED light goes off too.



I'm also wanting to hook a radar detector up the same way. I hate the cord plugged in the cig lighter...



Thanks!



-Heath M. Moore (that's for you Fd3BOOST)

AgentSpeed

OK so here is the lights and switch I'm putting in:







Here is my center pod before:





Here is my center pod after:





Here is the center console after the switch is installed:





Everything is wired up except the power wire. It is ran towards the fuse box but I haven't hooked it up yet.

Fd3BOOST

I actually tap power for my boost gauge off the dimmer switch using a vampire conector. That way you can dim it along with the rest of the dash lights. I have tapped from the fues panel for other thinsg before. It should not be an issue using a vampire if you like.



-David S. Clair

AgentSpeed

That's a good idea. I hooked up just the LED light across the battery and it was a bit bright, even with the inline resistor. I didn't hook up the light for the switch itself though. I'll probably take it back off and paint over the fog light symbol. One day I'm going to get fog lights and another fog light switch, I don't want to confuse myself with having two switches that have the same symbol...

Signal 2

If your car is the same as mine, look just above the inside fuse panel in the driver's footwell. Above the pop-off cover (you don't have to take the cover off) there are two female plugs. The one on the right side is hot, but only when the ignition key is on. I just used a male spade connector to plug in with an inline fuse.

AgentSpeed

Thanks! I wired into that today. My light worked for 2 cycles of the switch... For some reason it kept blowing the light. It was working perfectly through the switch when I had the battery in the living room floor. The only thing then was that the dual stage boost controller wasn't in the loop. Now I'm wondering if my ebay buy was on the boost controller was a scam. Either that or I've got a wire crossed.

I'm going to pull everything back out and test it again. Hopefully I'll find the problem. I know one thing, I'm going to get some cheaper lights to test with. At $3 a pice those LED lights are going to get expensive if I don't luck up and find the problem pretty quick!



Oh and I'm not blowing a fuse either. Any thoughts on what the problem might be??? I can draw and post a quick schematic if necessary.

DUB

draw the schematic



IF you're not blowing the fuse...it means your fuse is rated higher than the lights (or see below). What AMP fuse are you using? What AWG wire are the lights run with? (only reason I ask is, too large of wire and current will be too large also)



There could be a spike with your power source that is overloading the LEDs and not heating the wire long enough to blow the fuse.



-R. Carson Vizina

AgentSpeed

I'm using a 3amp fuse. The LED wires are like 20ga and just before the light there is a resistor in line.

I'll have to post the schematic later on tonight when I get back to work and have time to sit down...

AgentSpeed

https://www.nopistons.com/forums/ind...howtopic=44170

AgentSpeed

Here is the schematic:









Did I miss something???