I think you could say this is a very bad thing. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.gif

Was taking down the ride tonight for the new engine installation. Saw a puddle of water in the exhaust manifold. Figured it was from taking the turbos off. Wrong!

Might explain the no revs past 5K , no power & piss poor running in general. As a sidenote, saw the turbo manifold too. One hairline crack & that was it. The things had a reman tag on `em I missed from an earlier observation. They had a little oil in them but wasnt`t much! May just put them back on after I am finished with the engine install.

Oh boy.......

Figured out also where the underhood smoke was coming from as well. A coolant hose was leaking & spraying water down the side of the block & onto the exhaust manifold. Glad I found it now as it was pretty swollen & looked to me to be ready to burst. The more I get into this thing, the more I am finding things to repair. Planning on doing a complete vacuum hose replacement too. Think it would be worth it at this stage.

The first picture suggests a coolant seal failure. But that doesn't mean the block isn't rebuildable.



It's pretty common for the upper turbo coolant line to fail like that over time from all the heat....though yours looks alot worse than mine did at 85k. Good thing your rebuilding...coolant will burn if you get it hot enough.

"It's pretty common for the upper turbo coolant line to fail like that over time from all the heat....though yours looks alot worse than mine did at 85k. Good thing your rebuilding...coolant will burn if you get it hot enough."







Well, I have around 112K miles on the engine so I definitely went longer than you did. Glad I saw the hose now because I sure would have hated to have gotten out somewhere far away from home & "Pop"!!! DOH!!!! Gotta hate that! https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.gif

Went by the Mazda dealership a couple days ago to order replacement gaskets for some of the critical areas that will need them. The guy I deal with there, cut me a heck of a deal on the parts & it still went over 300 bucks. Got a funny feeling that it won`t stop there. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub..._DIR#>/sad.gif

Well, time to get off of my can & go back out in the garage & pull some more things off the motor. Was kinda hoping that maybe those difficult to remove accessories would just jump right off the motor by themselves while I sit in the house surfing the web but I checked a little while ago & the car still looks the same as when I left it a few days ago..... https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.gif

I understand you have a guy at a local dealership...and that's good. But if you can show results from a sanctioned event or two NASA or SCCA (like autocross), you won't find better prices and technical help than here for your rebuild... http://www.mazdamotorsports.com/webapp/wcs...catalogId=10001 . Probably saved me $600 to $800 on my rebuild a year and a half ago.

If not, many use MALLOY MAZDA for alot of OEM parts http://mazda.malloyautomall.com/Department-Parts.aspx. Even with shipping (which is quick), they're usually cheaper than I can get stuff anywhere else but MAZDAMOTORSPORTS...even if ordered through a family owned business. Ask for Ray Crowe, he's an FD owner himself.

Good luck.

Someone else the other day told me the same thing about being in a sanctioned event or two. I have had one fellow in town try to get me to go to an event awhile back. I almost did but got sidetracked. I guess it is a little late in the game now to get the "discount" on parts but I am seriously thinking of trying an event in the near future. Looks like my friend charged me around 15% over cost for the parts I have bought as of two days ago. I have no complaints really but who wants to have to pay any more than they have too? https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.gif

Excellent advice though Jim & thank you for it! https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.gif



As soon as I get my car back on the road I wouldn`t mind at all of entering it in an event or two to get my feet wet. I really think it would be fun. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683473.gif





Time for some chow & then off to bed. Bending over that engine compartment for long periods of time for a guy over 40 is not as easy to do as when I was younger! LOL! The parts are STILL coming off! I am wondering how they were able to fit all of those things in there!!! Man! I am gonna hate putting all of those valves & hoses back on the new motor! https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683358.gif This has got to be one of the biggest undertakings of my entire meager existence! https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/wacko.gif



As a side note I would like to add here, I told the guy down at the Mazda parts department the other day about this undertaking of mine. He said if I could do this project, all of the other Mazda cars they see every day for service would be EASY!! Eek!!! Ummmmm...wonder if he knows something I don`t?!! https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.gif

It's not that bad. Just stick with the FSM.

Some advice from personal experience.......

*Hopefully you have a dedicated space.....keep it well lit, and very clean.

*Pretty daunting early on when you first start out. Try to do something on it every day or two, even when your just waiting for parts. Cleaning parts, cleaning the engine bay, re-wrappng what will likely be a crispy engine harness etc. I found doing that kept me focused and motivated over the long haul.

*If you have the room and don't already have compressed air, consider buying a small compressor.

*If this is your first time, keep a camera handy and take digital photographs as you disassemble for possible later reference. Different angles, distances etc. Especially of areas like the "rats nest" solenoid rack. You may never need them, but......



BTW, I've probably got 10+ yrs on you. This is a job even the elderly can do. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...DIR#>/wink.gif

Good luck and post up your progress when you can.

"It's not that bad. Just stick with the FSM."



I have the thing opened now laying on the front of the car. I am trying real hard to not get oil & fingerprints all over it! https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.gif



I live by myself so have the garage all to myself as well. I am glad because I can put things wherever I want & not have to worry about them "wandering about" while I am not around. I have a 60 gallon upright air compressor which does get its fair share of use. I like having air capability especially when needing an air wratchet to loosen bolts with or need of an impact wrench to break those stubborn bolts free. Used to work in car audio years ago & figured out quickly that air tools were wonderful! https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.gif



Know what you mean about the crispy engine harness. There are definitely places that need to be rewrapped. I think I will do that. Amazing what that engine heat can do to them.



+1 on the photos too. I am taking lots of them. I like that little bit of additional "peace of mind" factor. Speaking of mind, I don`t remember things as well as I used too. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.gif



Trying to stay motivated on this project. I think the thing that keeps me going the most is the joy I had of driving it & how much fun it was. A second reason is, I don`t want to have the thing towed to a shop & tell them to finish the installation for me! I could just see the bill on that one IF...& I say IF they would even fool with it! https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.gif



More to come.

https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.gif

You can download the FSM from a few different sources for free. Then print the pertinent pages to take to the garage and save the hard copy book for study timel. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...DIR#>/wink.gif

I like silicone self-fusing tape...sometimes called fusion tape. Sticks to itself and no adhesive. Available under various brands or through McMaster-Carr. I get mine at the local MENARD'S under the GB brand. A little pricey, but it stands up to the underhood temps and won't dry out like electrical tape and water resistant. It also stretches and goes farther than you think.

"I like silicone self-fusing tape...sometimes called fusion tape. Sticks to itself and no adhesive. Available under various brands or through McMaster-Carr. I get mine at the local MENARD'S under the GB brand. A little pricey, but it stands up to the underhood temps and won't dry out like electrical tape and water resistant. It also stretches and goes farther than you think."



I will look into that Jim! Thank you! I have a McMaster - Carr catalog here. About time for bed so think I may do a little "reading" in that catalog before I turn in. Got a call from Mazda today. Parts are in. Tomorrow, road trip! https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.gif

Hey, one thing I forgot to ask. Where is a good place to anchor a chain at for the hoist, in the rear of the motor? There is a hook on the front but I didn`t see anything in the rear of the engine. How did you handle that issue when you pulled a motor in the past? I saw a 10 or 12 mm screw hole on the backside of the plenum but I am not sure that I would want to anchor the chain to a screw in that hole. The manual seemed vague about that issue. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/dunno.gif

Yes, there are two (one above the other) bolt holes on the passenger side of the UIM for 12mm bolts. If you don't have one, it shouldn't be difficult to fab a substitute up.

http://img132.imageshack.us/img132/6...mediumm.th.jpg

Oh! I see now! https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.gif

OK! Have some steel here so think I can fabricate something to anchor to. Should work fine.

Thanks Jim! Big help!

Well, finished unhooking the fuel lines , oil cooler lines, A/C compressor mount & moved the engine hoist around to the front of the car. Garage is getting cramped from all of the stuff laying in the floor. Had to move my `83 turbo out of the garage to position the hoist. The `83 was low on gas so down the road to the gas station I went. Hadn`t driven it in quite a few months so naturally, just had to go for a spin after getting some go go juice! I gotta drive that thing more often!! https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...O_DIR#>/v2.gif



Went over to DJSevens` house last night & he fixed me up with a engine hook & some pipe wrap for my down pipe. Ran across him in another forum. Nice guy! Talked with him for about 3 hours. The guy builds RX7 motors & is local. I may use him some time if I ever need another one. He told me he had lots of FD parts & if I needed anything, to let him know. I see a valuable resource here!! https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...DIR#>/wink.gif



SOOOOO....need to pull out the wiring harness & unbolt the motor. One more thing....I hate this one.

To tranny or not to tranny. THAT is the question. Wondering if it would be easier to remove the engine with it attached or leave it in the car & just pull the motor. Hmmmmmm. I hate mating transmissions to an engine in the car. Then there is the issue of getting everything to line up together including the engine mounts to the sub assembly ( which from what I have read, is a real @&$###! ) . Pondering here...................... https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/wacko.gif

Either way you go...w/transmission or not, a leveler on the engine hoist is VERY nice to have.

Ummm.......Guess it is a little late to back out now. What have I done?!!!!!!!!!!!!!! https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.gif

https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...>/bigthumb.gif Looks good actually. I prefer to take out the motor without the transmission too. Did you get an engine stand adaptor?

LOL, funny, I have almost the exact same shots of mine right after I pulled it. Like a right of passage I guess.



Remember how I warned you about it being a little daunting early on in the process? A little every day...just so you continue to see progress. Keep us posted.

"Looks good actually."



Looks good actually?!!!!! Man! I am freakin` over here! https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.gif

My cars engine is hangin` in the air, I have NO idea when I will get it back in the car, IF EVER, & to top it all off, I have a MILLION miles at LEAST of vacuum hose to replace!!! You optimist you!!!! Your supply of Prozac must be MUCH BETTER than mine! https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.gif



"LOL, funny, I have almost the exact same shots of mine right after I pulled it. Like a right of passage I guess."



Ya know....I think this event must be the ultimate test of my manhood. If I COMPLETE this ( car must make it out of the driveway without coasting or being towed & must be drivable, not explode into flames while driving it on the first run out ) I actually might begin to feel like I am somebody! https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683785.gif



"Remember how I warned you about it being a little daunting early on in the process?"



Let me tell ya youngster what daunting is. It is when one doesn`t have enough money to purchase enough laundry soap ( because someone spent their unemployment check on Mazda parts ) to clean their undies with because they loaded `em up after going back out in the garage & saw a rotary engine out of their beloved `94 swinging in the air in front of them! Not sure but that might have happened after the Prozac wore off......



Anyone know the number to 911? Awww man!!! https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/wacko.gif



Oh, about forgot to mention, My engine stand is a couple of 2x4 scraps with the engine sitting on them. Will have to do for now. I still need to order some of that fusion tape you recommended Jim. Will try & get that done this week.



Stay tuned for more updates from the looney farm.

https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.gif

Well it seems that I am going to need a drivers side engine mount. I have a brand new passenger side mount I got with the motor when I bought it. My luck I would need the opposite of what I have. Oooooh! https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.gif



Thinking about porting the wastegate too. Shouldn`t be too bad to do as I have a mill here & a die grinder. Did you do that to your car Jim while you had everything out? Have any boost creep issues? I have a DP, high flow cat & RB tailpipe. Nothing else added to the car. Think that is about all I will do to the thing. Oh, ran across a used Pettit AST also. Hopefully will have it in my hands by Friday of this week. Figured that would be a cheap investment. Surely don`t want to have the plastic one break at some point & see all of my hard work go down the tubes due to coolant loss. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...O_DIR#>/11.gif

No, I didn't port my wastegate. I have no plans to go without a cat, so shouldn't have creep issues.

All metal AST is a good thing. .

Did your driver's side mount look something like this?

http://img198.imageshack.us/img198/6...mediuma.th.jpg

BTW.....the engine stand adapter is kind of pricey (IIRC mine was ~ $80 from Adkins) but IMO worth it. Makes EVERYTHING much easier, especially during critical reassembly. My .02.

My drivers side mount is torn at the top. Looks like yours is torn from the base. Most people from what I understand say that the bad one is usually on the turbo side. My turbos have been rebuilt at some point so the mount may have been changed at that time. That is about all I can come up with for a reason why mine isn`t all to pieces. I was surprised to see the drivers side about to come apart when I got to looking at it.



I wouldn`t mind using an engine stand here. From where the motor is sitting on the floor, when I have to take the accessories off of it, may make it kinda hard. I will have to come up with a poor mans way to do it. Have a friend who has a stand but would still need the adapter to bolt it all up. Garage is getting a little cluttered with the engine in the floor in front of the car now. Think I need to do some pondering on all of this. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683561.gif



What did you do with the injectors while the engine was stripped? Did you send them out to be cleaned? Thinking of doing that here. Have heard RC is a good place to send them to. Guess I will need to get seals for them & also am considering buying a new fuel pulsation dampener for the fuel rail. I have heard that with age, they have a tendency to start leaking. I sure don`t want my car catching fire later in it`s life because I didn`t change that out while I had the car apart. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683664.gif

They do have some history of leaking and starting fires with age and heat. I installed a new one but another option is to elimnate it. Chris Sanders at Banzai is well known and a good reputation. His site has a how-to. Go to Tech Support and then scroll down to "General Rotary How-to's...... http://www.banzai-racing.com/ Your call. Either way, I replaced all the rubber fuel lines.

Were your flow rates off very much from new when they recieved the injectors before cleaning? Just curious how much they can change their flow rates over time & use.

Actually, no. I don't have the info in front of me, but as I recall, the rates were pretty good to begin with...only a percentage or two improvemet. But then I run Chevron-Techron cleaner through twice a year and the car only had 87k.

In a way, that tells me KGPARTS was is on the up and up. They didn't know anything about my car or how I maintained it. If they wanted to try to impress me, they could have sent me some bullshit that reflected huge improvements in order to validate what they had done. But instead they sent me really what I expected...marginal improvement. It was really done as a preventative because as you'll find out the injectors are buried pretty good and not easy to access. I'm still glad I had it done.

Thanks Jim for that info. Also bookmarked those links you gave me. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.gif



I had spoken with someone else a little while back who had some injectors cleaned & they too said that the improvement was just a few percent more than when received so apparently it seems like injectors do well for quite awhile. Would be interesting to hear from someone whose injectors were really nasty & cleaning them brought the performance from them, way up. I wonder how many miles it would take to make an injector not perform well? Factors too would be trashy fuel filters, old gas etc, would be harmful I realize. I guess too, running a fuel injector cleaner through the tank occasionally might be all it would take to keep injectors running at their peak at all times. I am going to do it anyway since I am in to the engine so much at this point, it would be an added peace of mind factor I believe.

Passed another mile marker. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/wacko.gif



How much more can they pack in there?!!! https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.gif

Starting to find a few hoses with hairline cracks in them. Can`t wait to see how brittle they will be when I flex `em. New hose on everything is about to happen!

Just a few more items & I BELIEVE I MIGHT be able to get that rats nest off of there. Incredible...There was actually an engine under all of that stuff! https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.gif



Engine heat sure baked those hoses. I dropped a few of them on the ground & they sounded like pieces of plastic when they hit. The harness in areas is pretty hard too. I am going to be careful with it. I would hate to think of buying a new one! https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...DIR#>/ohmy.gif

*Now is the time for taking those digital pictures discussed earlier.



*There are varying ways to get those hoses off of the plastic nipples of the solenoids w/o breaking the nipples. What I was successful with was a small dremel with a cutting wheel. I'd make a longitundinal cut in the hose above the nipple and then put a small standard screwdriver in it. A twist of the screwdriver and they would typically "pop" loose. You just have to be careful not to go too deep with the dremel. Sounds complicated but it wasn't...and I got pretty good at it after a few times.

But maybe someone more experienced has a better way?



*PB BLASTER on the electrical connectors works great at getting them loose. Most of mine were stuck pretty good from heat and dirt. It's electronics friendly. Smells like a camel's ass dipped in ether, but it's effective and if you close all the doors and windows time goes by really fast. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...R#>/tongue.gif



*Those larger nest " rack screws can also be stubborn. Mine wouldn't budge initially. I don't know what it's called anymore, but I had an impact tool with a screwdriver tip. It's got an internal "cam" and when you give it a smack with the hammer it applies quick torque to the screw. You might already have one and know what I'm talking about. This worked EXCELLENT for me. Also works great on those big phillips head screws in brake rotors.



*On my harness, it was mostly just the outer wrap that MAZDA used that had basically turned into ABS plastic. The wire and insulation inside weren't in bad shape. I removed the plastic and then re-wrapped with that silicone fusion tape. Then the accordian plastic loom cover you can get anywhere. A little friction tape, some small zip-ties and all was golden. Kinda tedious but...... I did mine over the winter while watching football. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...DIR#>/wink.gif

if there is water in your exhaust then its a coolant seal, did you have problems with the car overheating often and did it seem to eat coolant? also dont take the rats nest off, it can really mess with your tuning unless your going standalone, then take it off

*Now is the time for taking those digital pictures discussed earlier.



Have a folder on the machine here with almost 70 pics in it. Different angles, distances etc. as you had recommended earlier. Some of my hoses have been marked using gel ink (shows up good on the black hose) with numbers & their corresponding locations marked with the same numbers. Should help immensely. I am SURE I am going to need to reference those pics on reassembly. Surprised my cameras batteries haven`t died yet! https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.gif



*There are varying ways to get those hoses off of the plastic nipples of the solenoids w/o breaking the nipples. What I was successful with was a small dremel with a cutting wheel. I'd make a longitundinal cut in the hose above the nipple and then put a small standard screwdriver in it. A twist of the screwdriver and they would typically "pop" loose. You just have to be careful not to go too deep with the dremel. Sounds complicated but it wasn't...and I got pretty good at it after a few times.

But maybe someone more experienced has a better way?



DJSeven, when I spoke to him a week or 2 ago, said what he does on the harder to remove lines is take a lighter or some heat source & warm the vacuum hose a little & it will come off easier. I haven`t tried that one but definitely want to take care not to break any of those nipples off of any of those solenoids. Have replaced one or two in the past & they are expensive. I don`t really care what I do to the hose as I am rehosing all of the lines anyway. The dremel idea would work good too I think. At least now I have a couple of ways I know of to get those stubborn hoses off.



*PB BLASTER on the electrical connectors works great at getting them loose. Most of mine were stuck pretty good from heat and dirt. It's electronics friendly.



Have a can of that stuff here & have used it. Does work good. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.gif



Smells like a camel's ass dipped in ether, but it's effective and if you close all the doors and windows time goes by really fast. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...R#>/tongue.gif



Almost fell out of my chair laughing when I read that!! https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.gif Good one!! Hehehe! Even the guy at AutoZone where I got it said something to that same effect!



*Those larger nest " rack screws can also be stubborn. Mine wouldn't budge initially. I don't know what it's called anymore, but I had an impact tool with a screwdriver tip. It's got an internal "cam" and when you give it a smack with the hammer it applies quick torque to the screw. You might already have one and know what I'm talking about. This worked EXCELLENT for me. Also works great on those big phillips head screws in brake rotors.



I know the tool you are talking about. One of the guys where I used to work had one. Pretty neat tool!



*On my harness, it was mostly just the outer wrap that MAZDA used that had basically turned into ABS plastic. The wire and insulation inside weren't in bad shape. I removed the plastic and then re-wrapped with that silicone fusion tape. Then the accordian plastic loom cover you can get anywhere. A little friction tape, some small zip-ties and all was golden. Kinda tedious but...... I did mine over the winter while watching football. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...DIR#>/wink.gif



Now THAT "while watching football" remark is the way things oughta be done! Nice to be able to take ones time on things & not get in any hurry.



Thanks for the advice Jim! Very helpful!



Back to the mess.

That is what it was. It never got to an overheated state while I had it. I am the 5th owner I believe so it`s hard to say what happened to it earlier in its life. I didn`t find myself putting coolant in it very often. Sometimes I would add a little but it wasn`t too much. I have only put around 15K on the car since I bought it. I knew it needed work when purchased & was sold the car a bunch cheaper than what the guy on the lot wanted for it. The body & interior was in great shape so I took the thing off the guys hands. He knew he couldn`t have sold it to anyone anyway.



How is taking the rats nest off going to affect my tuning? The new hoses going back on will be pretty much the same length as the old ones & even if they were longer or shorter, I can`t see how that would affect the tune of the engine. It is going to have to come off anyway since it is going on the new block.

Grumble grumble..........



This thing is evil. How do I make it stop tormenting me?! I musta missed something somewhere in the manual.

An experienced FD owner and friend who was helping me with my rebuild suggested strongly that I remove that bake-a-light plastic portion of that nipple and just use the metal part. His argument was that they can fail over time...much like the plastic ASTs and OEM radiator end-tanks. Mine seemed solid enough, but I trust his opinion and ended up removing it. Not sure now, but IIRC I used two small standard screwdrivers in thru the side slots to compress some tabs and it pulled off. If you want revenge, I suppose careful application of a big frickin' channel lock pliers would work too. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...DIR#>/wink.gif

I replaced all coolant hoses anyway and used two quality worm-gear clamps. No issues since.

I was thinking more along the lines of one round out of my .45 should remove it quicker. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...DIR#>/wink.gif



Think I will take your lead on using hose clamps on the hose to the block when I re-install everything. I really like that idea better. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.gif



Thanks Jim!

OK. Looks like we are now off to the races! After a couple of small hurdles, time to move on to the fun stuff!

Only 1 area I was a little perturbed about. Marked in red in the photo. Think I will use a female spade lug to fix it.

Out with the old & in with the new! https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.gif

That's your water temp thermosensor connection. A spade connector would probably work just fine, but you could also post up a WTB here or on the other forum and see if someone out there doesn't have a pig-tail they'd sell you cheap.

I can't remember if you're on the stock ECU or have a PFC (and even if you have a PFC but no ready access to a datalogit) but either way you could consider replacing the the stock FD thermoswitch with the 89-91 FC thermoswitch. It's completely plug and play, but the FC switch will turn your fans on much sooner (IIRC, 95 C instead of 106 C.) than our stock FD switch. They're not inexpensive, but a little more peace of mind.

I am on the stock ECU. No PFC. Someone else mentioned doing the switch to an FC thermoswitch. I had forgotten about that! Think I will get one as it would keep the car a little cooler I believe. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.gif Got a chance to run across DJSeven last night on the phone & he told me that is a common area on the harness to break. Sees a lot of them. I was inquiring about getting a pigtail from him if he had a bad harness laying around. I was hoping to be able to cut one off of it & use it on mine. Said he didn`t but told me about the female blade connector. My wire was a little green right at the connector so I`ll bet it had been corroding for quite some time. Just took a little movement & Snap! Off it came. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/angry.gif Oh well. Simple fix really. No biggy.



So you are telling me that the thermoswitch that the wire has come off of, is the thermoswitch I can switch for the FC thermoswitch then? Just want to make sure I have the right one chosen, so when I swap it out, it`ll work like it should. By chance happen to have a part number?



Thanks guy!

Part Number 41-18-840

As I recall, it will have "95" stamped on the side of it in the brass, indicating the threshold temp to activate the fans. This is a somewhat common reliability mod for our cars, so check your current one first before ordering. It's possible the previous owner changed it. If it's the original FD thermoswitch it should have a "108"....for that threshold temp. Other than that, they are identical, with identical connectors and installation.