That's It
#1
i've spent the last week doing changing over to silicone vac lines, and i finished tonight. it ran pretty good, but still had the 3psi of boost after 4500RPM. so i figured oh well. well, the test run was fine, and on the way to my brothers soccer game it was fine. i start my car start driving and i hit the main road, and 0psi...THAT ******* RIGHT ONLY ******* 0 PSI!!!!!!!!!
so i get to the last street to my house drive slow will windows down and there is 0 boost leaking. i get inside, and rip off the UIM and there is not one NOT ******* ONE line loose.
so what the **** now guys. i love my car but if i could find the sadistic worthless mazda **** that designed that sequential system i would kill him and all blood relatives. i'm so close to being ******* done that i don't even want to look at the car. are there any ideas please help.
so i get to the last street to my house drive slow will windows down and there is 0 boost leaking. i get inside, and rip off the UIM and there is not one NOT ******* ONE line loose.
so what the **** now guys. i love my car but if i could find the sadistic worthless mazda **** that designed that sequential system i would kill him and all blood relatives. i'm so close to being ******* done that i don't even want to look at the car. are there any ideas please help.
#3
unfortunatly there are atleast 20 things tht could have gone wrong. Honestly the only easy way is get rid of all that crap.
Going single was the best decision I ever made.
Did you check all the intake pipes/hoses/couplers? The rubber coulplers love to break, sometimes you can't see the problem unless you grab the pipes and flex them to find the leak. If it's not that, and you are sure all the hoses are on correctly, you may have a bad solinoid. Just cuz the check engine light does'nt come on, does'nt mean everything is working properly
Going single was the best decision I ever made.
Did you check all the intake pipes/hoses/couplers? The rubber coulplers love to break, sometimes you can't see the problem unless you grab the pipes and flex them to find the leak. If it's not that, and you are sure all the hoses are on correctly, you may have a bad solinoid. Just cuz the check engine light does'nt come on, does'nt mean everything is working properly
#6
Originally Posted by JimmyJimboJet' date='Oct 16 2003, 05:28 PM
have you always had boost problems with the car? my buddy had the lower rubber coupling on the intercooler rip, resulting in a gradual boost loss.
#8
Assuming the turbos are still working, I would think you have a leak somewhere in your intake piping. Your turbos would sound a little louder than normal also. To check you need to take off each of the couplings and inspect them very carefully. Usually one of them gets a cut in it and you cannot tell without taking them all out and bending them and checking for splits. Assuming a minor problem in the sequential system, and no leaks in the intake piping, you should still get some sort of boost, at least a few lbs. It could be a possiblity your turbos are shot. maybe they arent producing any boost. Not sure how you would check for that, but maybe the compressor wheel is busted or something. Just a thought. I had never ending sequential problems in my 93, and just went non-sequential. Never had a problem since(for 2 years), and I am much happier with the reliability of the turbos I get from running non-sequential.
#10
Do you have the stock BOV and CRV on your car? I was loosing boost because of the rubber pipes that fit on the turbos that go to the CRV and BOV because they were broken. The heat from the turbos dry rotted the rubber tubes and cracked them. You might want to check those.