Switched to Synthetic today
09-09-2002, 01:26 PM
#22
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 7,316
Originally Posted by 7mech' date='Sep 8 2002, 08:30 PM
Hey like I said that's what I've been told. from what I've because it doesn't burn so well it tends to turn into a gel like substance. When this happens it will leave clumps of the jellied substance in the omp lines when the car is turned off. Then because of the cool down process it will harden and clog the lines. But like I said this is just what I've been told. Sorry in advance if I'm wrong. Just be careful and do your research(not saying you haven't) first.
09-09-2002, 01:27 PM
#23
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 7,316
Originally Posted by twinturborx7pete' date='Sep 9 2002, 06:38 AM
Ya, its true most of the top tuners use synthetic oil, in their race cars... syn breaks in faster, is less weight, and more vicous, but a race motor isn't meant to truly last that long...
It might be good for a while, but i'll stick with the "dino" oil, its been recommended by too many people not to use synthetic, i'll just go with what works... let me know if problems do arise..
It might be good for a while, but i'll stick with the "dino" oil, its been recommended by too many people not to use synthetic, i'll just go with what works... let me know if problems do arise..
09-09-2002, 04:01 PM
#24
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 272
i've been using syn for a year now. no problem. i've used amsoil, and now redline. i've been looking for the syn from r-magic in japan. can't find it anywhere. there is two kind. one is just for the fc's, the other is just for fd's. anyone know where to get it?????? salva????????
09-10-2002, 06:47 AM
#28
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Westminster, MD
Posts: 368
Originally Posted by ryan' date='Sep 9 2002, 06:29 PM
Now the question is why are you using 10w30? I guess it doesn't matter so much if you don't run the car hard, but I always use 20w50. I could have sworn that's what is recommended...
With that said, I chose 10w-30 Mobil 1 for several reasons over 20w-50 std oil. There are 2 reasons that 20w-50 would be used -
1) the tolerences in the motor are large either due to wear or due to old design (old motors could not be manufactured with tight tolerences like more modern motors)
2) The motor is hard on the oil and tends to break it down due to heat (std oil only).
Since our motors are not 30 years old, the tolerences are pretty good (unless it is 'worn out'), the heat is the main issue.
My motor was just rebuilt and broken in on Castrol 20w-50, so it is not worn out like a high mileage motor. Since the motor was 'tight', 20w-50 was not needed for tolerence issues (I run about 130psi oil pressure hot @ 6000rpm with 10w30), but due to the high heat of the rotory 20w-50 std oil is still recomended.
The advantage of synthetic is that it can handle high heat with out breaking down and can provide a superior film strength. Sooooo, since the synthetic can take the heat without breaking down, I choose the 10w30 Mobil 1.
Some advantages:
faster oil pressure at start-up since it flows better cold
Less heat produced (lower oil temp readings)
less power used to pump - more power to use
better high heat protection
I have used it at several auto-x's, a track day, and some general mess'n around on the street with Rikki and others. The motor runs smoother, cooler and faster. I guess the only way to tell for sure will be if I tear it down to inspect - but unless I do something stupid (like miss a gear
:unsure: ) it should be running for a long time.
