Mobil 1. 10W30



Car seems to run MUCH smoother... Feels stronger... Is it just me? Or, is this **** the BOMB in a rotary?

they say no synthetic for the rotaries. they said if you put it in there the extreme heat that is produced by a rotary engine will turn it to a thick, liquid plastic kind of stuff that will eventually clog the ports and youll have to get the engine rebuilt. actually this whole thing is just made up but they do say that you shouldnt use syn

Well, I've researched it for 8 months now.. all the top tuners do it, and lots of people I know do it.. So I figured I'd try... I have 63k... So I guess if it hurts it, I'll just go BIG streetport and T51... https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png

if it works out and you still have the same engine in a couple of changes let us know

See http://www.vtr.org/maintain/oil-overview.html for some interesting information about motoroils.



The value in using synthetics is that they resist degradation longer than conventional petroleum oils and allow you to extend your drain interval. If you use a conventional petroleum oil, and change it every 2,000 miles or less (assuming normal driving conditions), then I believe oil degradation is not a problem. Under those conditions conventional oil is every bit as good as synthetic and the overall cost is lower.

I started using Mobil one 15-50 synth about 6 months ago. It's awesome. Synth is all they use in Japan. I think were going to be ok synth is not going to hurt your car in anyway.

Most of the problems with synthetics were with the older ones that had alot of ash, which left deposits in the motor. Nowadays synthetics burn very cleanly, some even better than regular oil.

NO!!!!! Synthetics are made to handle much greater temperatures than mineral oils. They won't lose their viscosity the way that mineral oils do. Synthetics are also very good for turbos.

NO!!!!! Synthetics are made to handle much greater temperatures than mineral oils. They won't lose their viscosity the way that mineral oils do. Synthetics are also very good for turbos.[/quote]

Agreed!

NO!!!!! Synthetics are made to handle much greater temperatures than mineral oils. They won't lose their viscosity the way that mineral oils do. Synthetics are also very good for turbos.[/quote]

Agreed![/quote]

Somebody finally agrees with me. :o

Yeah synthetic is good until you clog the omp and lines and injectors with it. That's what I hear though. I'm unsure if that is a proven fact. Good luck, I hope it doesn't cost you an engine. I think I'll stay with my Valvoline 20w-50.

Well, after driving the car for 2 days now. I LOVE IT.



It fuggin purrs. Like new.



I'm happy. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png

How the hell can you clog the lines? Synthetic is more "slippery" than mineral oils.

How the hell can you clog the lines? Synthetic is more "slippery" than mineral oils.[/quote]

Seeing as how the OMP injects oil from probably the coolest part of the engine, I can't see how it would get clogged. (I think the only way oil gets clumpy is when it burns) Now, I do understand that some people argue that it may leave deposits on the rotor faces, as it doesnt "burn" as well as dino oil... However, synth has supposedly come a long way, and in some cases, may burn off even better than dino... I guess we'll see! Car still runs as of now!

Oops... Ace already said that.... Not trying to steal credit... https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/blink.png

Hey like I said that's what I've been told. from what I've because it doesn't burn so well it tends to turn into a gel like substance. When this happens it will leave clumps of the jellied substance in the omp lines when the car is turned off. Then because of the cool down process it will harden and clog the lines. But like I said this is just what I've been told. Sorry in advance if I'm wrong. Just be careful and do your research(not saying you haven't) first.

Well, thanks for the advice! I did look into it, and everything seems pretty well researched. I will look further into the OMP lines, and see what other people have come across. Thanks again.



P.S.



Still running good. 4 days now I think!

Ya, its true most of the top tuners use synthetic oil, in their race cars... syn breaks in faster, is less weight, and more vicous, but a race motor isn't meant to truly last that long...



It might be good for a while, but i'll stick with the "dino" oil, its been recommended by too many people not to use synthetic, i'll just go with what works... let me know if problems do arise.. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/wacko.png

I know this debate is ongoing, so a few months ago I asked Mobil and here is the response I got.





quote:

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

> Thank you for your inquiry.



> Mazda doesn't recommend synthetic engine oils

> in general for their rotary engines, experience and testing show that Mobil

> 1 provides superior performance in rotary engines.

>

> Technical Support Engineer (WJF)

>

> The above information is provided in good faith based upon the information

> presented by the customer. ExxonMobil is not responsible for any loss or

> damage resulting from inaccuracies or errors in any of the information

> provided or any acts or omissions taken in response to our advice.

>

> Exxon Technical Support: Mobil Technical Support:

> 1-800-44Exxon Prompt #3 1-800-Mobil25 Prompt #3

> (1-800-443-9966) (1-800-662-4525)

>

>

>

> ----- Message from ursnoozin@aol.com on Tue, 25 Jun 2002 17:00:03 +0000

> (GMT) -----

>

> To: mobilproducts@ourdataworks.com

>

> Subject: Mobil1 product Technical

> question

>

>

> I have a Mazda rotory motor (13B, N/A) in my MG Midget. The car is used

> for auto-xing, track days and some trips to the ice cream stand

>

> I want to know if I can use Mobil 1 10W-30 in my motor since it injects

> some of the oil into the combustion chamber like a 2-stroke. Will it

> carbon up the motor compared to std oil? Will it burn clean?

>

> Thanks

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------







It seems that Mobil has done some of their own testing and have found Mobil 1 to be OK. In the past if you asked them, they would just say the Mazda does not recomend synthetic oil. Now they have a new blend of oil (Super-SYN), they say it is OK.



I have now been using 10w-30 Mobil 1 since July 1st. I have noticed cooler oil temps, smoother idle, and more power compared to the Castrol 20w-50 I had been using with no bad side effects.

Thanks for the info!

Oil that goes into the combustion chamber DOES NOT re-enter the oil system.

Synthetics actually extend the break-in. You're not supposed to use synthetics during a break-in period.

i've been using syn for a year now. no problem. i've used amsoil, and now redline. i've been looking for the syn from r-magic in japan. can't find it anywhere. there is two kind. one is just for the fc's, the other is just for fd's. anyone know where to get it?????? salva????????

Now the question is why are you using 10w30? I guess it doesn't matter so much if you don't run the car hard, but I always use 20w50. I could have sworn that's what is recommended...

Ok now has anyone ever use Zmax in their angines. I have to admit I got suckered into the infomercial. I looks like it works extremly well. They even got an endorsement from Carroll Shelby.

oo once u go syn can u go back to reg oil?

First let me preface that I do not own a FD, but run an '86 N/A motor in my car.



With that said, I chose 10w-30 Mobil 1 for several reasons over 20w-50 std oil. There are 2 reasons that 20w-50 would be used -



1) the tolerences in the motor are large either due to wear or due to old design (old motors could not be manufactured with tight tolerences like more modern motors)



2) The motor is hard on the oil and tends to break it down due to heat (std oil only).



Since our motors are not 30 years old, the tolerences are pretty good (unless it is 'worn out'), the heat is the main issue.



My motor was just rebuilt and broken in on Castrol 20w-50, so it is not worn out like a high mileage motor. Since the motor was 'tight', 20w-50 was not needed for tolerence issues (I run about 130psi oil pressure hot @ 6000rpm with 10w30), but due to the high heat of the rotory 20w-50 std oil is still recomended.



The advantage of synthetic is that it can handle high heat with out breaking down and can provide a superior film strength. Sooooo, since the synthetic can take the heat without breaking down, I choose the 10w30 Mobil 1.



Some advantages:

faster oil pressure at start-up since it flows better cold

Less heat produced (lower oil temp readings)

less power used to pump - more power to use

better high heat protection



I have used it at several auto-x's, a track day, and some general mess'n around on the street with Rikki and others. The motor runs smoother, cooler and faster. I guess the only way to tell for sure will be if I tear it down to inspect - but unless I do something stupid (like miss a gear

:unsure: ) it should be running for a long time.

No you can not. At least I wouldn't advise it. Niether do most of the oil manufactures.

A lot of the track guys I have spoken to about synthetic have reported temp drops of ~5C over dino. For that reason alone I might switch.

But remember that Race engines(most of the time) get an oil change after the day anyway, whether it's synthetic or regular oil. They have the money for it i guess. Synthetic is expensive and oil should be changed at 2500 miles in a rotary engine anyway, so i'm just going to stick to my Valvoline racing oil 20w50. Le us know if anything happens though.

Well, it's been ...I dunno... How many days now? Running great! Been running her a little harder too... Seems to like it. Checked the oil... Not breaking down so far... Still gets a little fuel in it though... Which is normally the reason I change it @ like 1500 miles... I'll keep you guys updated.

I am getting ready to put some royal purple in. 9base3 hows your car doing?

Where do you get the royal purple and what is it costing you?

http://www.royalpurple.com/retail/dealers/...mddealers.shtml



or ayou can mail order it from somewhere like Jeg's:



http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/Pro...807&prmenbr=361



'bout the same price as other synthetics

Better than ever!



If you want some good info, rxplicit did a really nice writeup of synth and dino and oil consumption... I'll see if I can find it...

if you are burning oil, but know that your car is running well, read this. if not read it anyway. i posted this on the *other* forum, but as usual, the 3rd gen section is more like a kiddy lounge and offers little to no assistance. usually seeing topics like rx7 vs. supra and check out this rice car. that is why i am here. guys, do not make me eat my words now that i am here. i like advice and real support. all of you guys that i know from over there are here. i trust yall. guys like jspec, rikki, vr6, fd3b.., and a few others.



my findings with oil usage

i have been doing a study of oil usage in my car for the past 4-5 months, and i think that what you will find could be useful for you all. however, everyone's opinion will differ, but you will know whick way that i lean after this write up....



well, after deciding that 600-800 miles was too much for my car to be burning a quart to a quart and a half of oil, i decided to experiment.



here is what i have found.



jackson, ms avg temp since may ~85degrees in the day.

9500 miles logged on rebuild since 5-21-02



mobil 1 15-50 synthetic: burned AT LEAST 1qt. every ~950mi.

valvoline 20-50 synthetic: burned AT LEAST 1qt. every ~750-800mi.

amsoil 20-50 race syn.: burned AT LEAST 1qt. every ~800mi.



valvoline regular mineral oil 20-50 : burned LESS than 1qt over a 1400 mile period. oil still looked good, but i still change it every 2200-3000 miles...



mobil 1 20-50 regular : burned less than 1qt as well, under the sam circumstances as the valvoline.



i chose the valvoline because cam at pettit put it in my car after the new engine was installed and i trust his prefrences.



i definately know that the synthetice that heve gone into my car have all burned more rapidly than the regular types of oil. each one of these tests have been closely watched and documented. i decided to try this out because i simply got tired of seeing the oil light come on while halfway home on the interstate or sitting in traffic. these things concern me because my engine life sconcerns me as well.



i understand the ash content variables as well, and can tell you that the regular vs. the synthetic test i have done has its differences.



synthetic seems to burn slightly cleaner, but the sear amount that the car was going through as compare to the regular oil was proof enough for me.



i am going to stay with the regular oil for now. ****. i have been using the syn. oils for a few years now, but have a new outlook now.



synthetics are thinner, and yes can seep into the small areas better, but what about during the super high heat runs and cool downs. this is where the regular oil makes me more secure.



heat some up in a pan at the house. a side by side comparison will show you what i have seen and hopefully you will see my reasoning.



well that is it for now, but i am sure that i have other things that i can add but am simply forgetting....



add in your thoughts and reasoning as well. i know that this is an age old battle, full of opinions and differences, so lets hear them.



louis

hey, my thread magically duplicated itself...



BTW. once you go synthetic, YOU CAN GO BACK.



UHHHH. oil is oil. right? no. well, yes. in a sense of a few viscosity points, it is all similar. you can switch the weight of your oil, so why couldn't you switch the type?



i tell you, everyone has opinions, and mine is indefferent. i can not tell you the temp differences in the different oils, but what my above write up meant was that SYNTHETICS BURN QUICKER THAN A STANDARD MINERAL OIL. THAT'S THAT. i just got tired of worrying about when i was going to need to add half of a quart or so...



i will definately be using royal purple over the winter, simply because it is thinner, and won't be as hard on the engine. i use a thicker mineral oil in the summer and change it every 2000~ miles or so......



louis

I bought the royal purple at a local speed shop and it was $6 a quart.



My buddy owns a 10 minute oil change and put it in for me for free (free filter too!)



I do not daily drive my car I race it. I have put a total of 900 miles on it in the last 4 months.



I change my dino-oil every 1000 miles. I hope to keep the synthetic in for 2000 miles with a filter change at 1000 miles. That will last me over 8 months.



I did notice the engine temp was very slightly lower than normal during spirited driving.



I will be Autocrossing in 2 weeks that will be the real test. My engine temps tend to climb during a 40 sec. run. But.. I am beating the living **** out of the car. You might think you drive hard on the street, I used to think so too, if you have never Autocrossed you have no clue how hard you push your car.



I need new brake fluid after 900 miles if that gives you an idea of the beating. And my dino-oil looks like it has 5000 miles on it after that same 900 miles.



Thanks 9BASE3 for your input. Oil consumption is not an issue with me.





One last note. If you even have the tiniest oil leak on your engine it will be 10X worse with synthetic. My oil pressure sending unit leaks I ordered a new one due in on friday that is my only leak and I noticed it had a lot more oil on it than usual at the end of today.

I watched something on speedvision the other day... They DYNO'ed a stock ss camaro at like 302hp. THey changed the fluids to Royal purple and dyno'ed at over 310.