13brv3

For the record, I don't think I ever suggested forcing the CRV open. You'll never see secondary boost if you do that.



As for the hose choice, I debated viton vs. silicone until I was sick of it, then just ordered the Hose Techniques kit. I have no complaints about it. You get plenty of hose, and a nice cutter. The 3.5mm stuff was particularly robust, and that's what you use the most of. When you do the job, you'll love the fact that Mazda requires a few hoses to have different sizes on each end. Maybe they just did it on the US cars as a practical joke.



Also, I haven't confirmed it, but I'm pretty sure that FD is a Japanese abbreviation for Boost Problem. It's either that, or Oil Leak



Rusty

LAracer

sorry 'bout that. Must have been one of my crack-induced hallucinations .



Well, the result of removing the CRV was that I still see no sign of prespool - the secondary side of the y-pipe still jumps from 0 to 7psi (at 5200) without a smooth transition. This was quite dissapointing since I thought I was getting somewhere. I knew this would kill my secondary, but I was just looking at prespool. I also noticed the loud "whoosh" after transition, as you would expect (I don't usually hear this so I know the CRV is usually closed after transition). Is there any other way to check for prespool? If only I could see the actuator from inside the car .



And I still haven't checked the pills, but that's at the top of my "to do" list. If only I didn't have to keep going to work...so inconvenient. I can get time off for sick relatives, but not for a sick car .



Anyway...

P'cola FD

One way to check the precontrol actuator (which is much easier with the use of a lift ) is to get the car off the ground, supported properly, with lots of ground clearance, and very stable. Then, with the car warmed up, put it in gear, and "drive" it like you normally would. This is really easy with a lift, because it will take a pretty brave person to get under the car, and watch the precontrol door while you're revving this **** out of the car. You may be able to watch it with a mirror. Or if you have a "conecam" (mini, remote video camera) you could record it.

But if you have "T"ed into the vacuum line, and it shows proper operation, as well as testing the actuator's operation with a pump, then it should be working. Unless the line feeding it pressure has a problem. Check the hose going to the actuator, for the pressure source. Make sure it isn't damaged, and has a pill. If it doesn't have a pill, then check the other one for a pill. If they are both "pill-less" then u may have the newer turbos, or you may need some pills.

LAracer

Yeah, I know . I assumed that it was working for that reason. It's just, why else would I get 0psi then suddenly 7psi at 5200rpm in the secondary side of the y-pipe if I was getting prespool? It seems contradictory. Can somene with a working sequential system T into that secondary y-pipe nipple and see what you get? It's really easy to get to. I'd really appreciate it .



I'm going to try and float this question at rx7club one more time. They seem to get much more traffic, but I don't think the quality is as good as the quantity.

13brv3

In all this, have you tried swapping your Air Bypass Valve with the CRV? When I tested my CRV, it only took about .5 psi or less of vacuum to open the valve. When you see 0 on the test gauge, who's to say that isn't just enough to let the valve stay partly open. As you've mentioned, it's hard to be real critical of the readings, while driving. Just think how hard it will be IF you ever get full boost :smirk:



I checked my y-pipe fitting back when I was having problems, and I believe I documented what I read for that test. Unfortunately, the search function is disabled at the moment on the "other" forum, so I can't look it up. It would be easy enough to check, but I'm not sure when I'll get a chance. I also don't know if my reading with the PFC would different from the stock ECU.



Rusty

Tom93R1

If you live at 7k feet you will never see anywhere near a perfect 10-8-10 pattern. With the stock boost and precontrol pills in Colorado Springs (about 6200 feet) I got about 12-5-7. While driving over Monarch Pass (about 10k I think) I had 8-3-4 or somewhere around there. With the bleeder valves in place of the pills I was able to adjust it to about 11-7-11 in the Springs. Then I moved to Scottsdale AZ (1200 feet) and the colorado settings gave me about 10-8-14 so a few adjustments later I have about 11-8-11. Definately do the Home Depot Racing boost control and secondary precontrol if you want to get something close to what boost is supposed to be.

13brv3

I predict that you've just become LAracer's best friend



Interesting...



Rusty

LAracer

Tom93R1: I love you! Where have you been? I've been looking for some high-altitude boost patterns.



I think your 12-5-7 boost pattern is close enough to my 13-5-6 that I can stop playing with my hoses . Does anyone disagree with this? Can anyone verify this high-altitude boost pattern? I don't want to jump to any conclusions. I guess I could go for a long drive to lose some altitude and see how my boost changes (but think of all the miles I'll put on the car!). If I ever do, I'll post the results here. I would still like to find a baseline for the secondary side of the y-pipe (at any altitude).



If this really is the problem, then I think I better get a boost controller. I think I'll spring for a proper one (this car should have been designed with a closed loop system to begin with!). I can justify the expense since I can now put off the Viton hose job for a while longer. Might a boost controller get me closer 10-8-10?



This is so cool. :bigok:



Man, you rule Tom93R1.



Oh, I just thought, what about the late transition? Does the altitude cause this too? Maybe whatever sensors the ECU uses are just messed up with the low ambient pressure. That causes some solenoids to click late and some early (CRV). Am I stretching this too far? can I relax?

Tom93R1

Heh, sorry I was late to the party. I'm new to nopistons.com, I never knew what the name of the board was that they blocked on that other forum. Figured it out when a couple weeks ago they finally quit blocking nopistons in posts :bigok:

I dont know if just a boost controller will take care of the pattern, do the better ones also hook into the precontrol line? You may still need to get the bleeder valve to help there. As for transition I dont really remember when that was for me at altitude but I do think it was higher than 4500.



Good luck on your quest to see a proper boost pattern! (or at least something relatively close)

Tom

LAracer

Good enough for me .



Yeah, I'll try valves on both the wastegate and precontrol before I buy a controller. Maybe that'll be all I need. Thanks again.



I'll post the results of the valves for anyone who's been avidly following this thread .