SOON TO BE 4 SALE FD!
01-10-2006, 12:23 PM
#12
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the thumb test was my next suggestion. If you can hold your finger there....You have a blown engine... sorry dude. Just for piece o' mind... haul it to the mazda place and have them do a comp test.
01-12-2006, 07:38 AM
#14
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Originally Posted by jspecracer7' post='793383' date='Jan 11 2006, 02:17 AM
You did leave the trailing plug in each housing in right?
yeah i left both trailing plugs in. removed the check valve from the tester & cranked it over about 5 turns & the needle on the gauge fluctuated a bit but not much. am i supposed to hold the throttle wide open when i crank it over like our piston counterparts?
01-12-2006, 05:21 PM
#15
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assuming my fd has a blown engine just wondering how much i can get 4 her. she has fresh paint (bright red) with a new 99 front bumper lights & lower lip, 2 brand spanking new yokohama avs100 tires mounted on the stock chrome mazda rollers. apexi dual intake, apexi gt spec catback exhaust, brembo slotted & drilled rotors w/ hawk pads, new tint, interior is clean non smoker very little wear on drivers seat stock bose radio still functional cd player does'nt work & volume & bass controls are missing the little plastic buttons. rx7 aluminum scuff plates
when motor was rebuilt i replaced the motor mounts, water pump & all hoses.she is a 93 w/ street port 3mm atkins seals, msd 10mm wires, new twins 99 version & act pressure plate & disc. body has 108,000 motor had 7,102 when she stopped running. car still starts but runs sluggish & idles extremly rough. i'll post pictures soon & have all reciepts for everything mentioned car was never abused & oil was changed every 2,000 miles i changed the plugs twice. once after break in & at 5,000 miles. if i get enough interest i might let her go. or if theres anyone out there prefferably in texas that can hook me up with a good deal on a 3 rotor conversion $36,000 is just too rediculous not mentioning any names of course. (ALAMO ROTORY san antonio, tx). i'm sure somebodys done a conversion (A GOOD RELIABLE ONE) for at least half that.
thanks guys
Da Bears!
when motor was rebuilt i replaced the motor mounts, water pump & all hoses.she is a 93 w/ street port 3mm atkins seals, msd 10mm wires, new twins 99 version & act pressure plate & disc. body has 108,000 motor had 7,102 when she stopped running. car still starts but runs sluggish & idles extremly rough. i'll post pictures soon & have all reciepts for everything mentioned car was never abused & oil was changed every 2,000 miles i changed the plugs twice. once after break in & at 5,000 miles. if i get enough interest i might let her go. or if theres anyone out there prefferably in texas that can hook me up with a good deal on a 3 rotor conversion $36,000 is just too rediculous not mentioning any names of course. (ALAMO ROTORY san antonio, tx). i'm sure somebodys done a conversion (A GOOD RELIABLE ONE) for at least half that.
thanks guys
Da Bears!
01-12-2006, 06:38 PM
#16
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Location: Boston Ma.
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Yes, full throttle. Keep trailing plug in. check both rotors..
Put the valve back in the tester and see what the maximum reading you get.
The purpose of taking out the valve is to see if the 3 pulses are even.
If both rotors are abruptly died at the same time after 9k, then its unlikely the build was the cause. Especially if you have no compression at all on both rotors.
Post the results of your maximum readings, and if the pulses are even.
Put the valve back in the tester and see what the maximum reading you get.
The purpose of taking out the valve is to see if the 3 pulses are even.
If both rotors are abruptly died at the same time after 9k, then its unlikely the build was the cause. Especially if you have no compression at all on both rotors.
Post the results of your maximum readings, and if the pulses are even.
01-12-2006, 07:44 PM
#19
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Originally Posted by RONIN FC' post='793780' date='Jan 12 2006, 06:38 PM
Yes, full throttle. Keep trailing plug in. check both rotors..
Put the valve back in the tester and see what the maximum reading you get.
The purpose of taking out the valve is to see if the 3 pulses are even.
If both rotors are abruptly died at the same time after 9k, then its unlikely the build was the cause. Especially if you have no compression at all on both rotors.
Post the results of your maximum readings, and if the pulses are even.
aight i'm gonna give it another go & post the results shortly.
01-12-2006, 07:48 PM
#20
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Originally Posted by SilverImage' post='793798' date='Jan 12 2006, 07:38 PM
Can you run a street port on stock ECU ?
I didn't see it listed on your mods.
I was told i would'nt have any problems. she ran stong for the 9k that i put on her i've yet to find out whats making her feel sick.