Secondary Turbo Not Working
09-23-2003, 11:16 PM
#12
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: CA
Posts: 56
hmm ya i do need to get to a shop, but first i dont care if my FD explodes im going to seven stock. it could just be a vacum hose that poped off? i have a boost gauge but havnt installed it yet. i dont know **** about the stock twins, and didnt really read up on them considering i thought id ride around on them till i get my single turbo and decide i want to mod the engine, i was gona do suspension first =(
09-24-2003, 01:44 AM
#14
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: union, new jersey
Posts: 8,079
you dont even gotta permanently mount your boost guage yet if you dont want to....... there is a nipple right on the middle of the upper intake manifold(where the manifold bends down to the lower intake manifold. just plug the hose that comes out of your boost guage to that, run the hose through your doors if you have to(thats what i did before) and just make sure that you're boosting properly
09-24-2003, 06:10 AM
#15
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Perth, Western Australia
Posts: 267
Umm, probably being picky and off-topic, but if you have each turbo pumping out 6 spi, then total presure is........... 6psi!
They don't add like that....
Your boost will be high then drop to a much lower level higher up in the rev range if your secondary turbo is shot.
As for the clutch....NFI!
They don't add like that....
Your boost will be high then drop to a much lower level higher up in the rev range if your secondary turbo is shot.
As for the clutch....NFI!
09-24-2003, 06:24 PM
#17
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: O.C. - CA.
Posts: 840
My clutch sysmptoms were gradual loss of power and burnt clutch smell. The seemed like I was towing a jet ski, then later on it felt like a damn yaught.
If the car was just rebuilt before you bought it then it could be set for 5lbs for the break in period. It's possible you just need to crank the boost to 10lbs (total, not 10+10).
Typical leaks are: rubber coupling of air pipe to y-pipe, silicone couplers, o-ring on y-pipe, y-pipe gaskets, turbo and exhaust manifold nuts & studs, down pipe gasket, nuts & studs.
If i'm not mistaken, you need to reach 8lbs or the secondary doesn't come online. Someone please respond if that's incorrect.
If the car was just rebuilt before you bought it then it could be set for 5lbs for the break in period. It's possible you just need to crank the boost to 10lbs (total, not 10+10).
Typical leaks are: rubber coupling of air pipe to y-pipe, silicone couplers, o-ring on y-pipe, y-pipe gaskets, turbo and exhaust manifold nuts & studs, down pipe gasket, nuts & studs.
If i'm not mistaken, you need to reach 8lbs or the secondary doesn't come online. Someone please respond if that's incorrect.
09-24-2003, 07:37 PM
#18
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: La Plata, Maryland
Posts: 9,725
Originally Posted by GoRacer' date='Sep 24 2003, 03:24 PM
My clutch sysmptoms were gradual loss of power and burnt clutch smell. The seemed like I was towing a jet ski, then later on it felt like a damn yaught.
If the car was just rebuilt before you bought it then it could be set for 5lbs for the break in period. It's possible you just need to crank the boost to 10lbs (total, not 10+10).
Typical leaks are: rubber coupling of air pipe to y-pipe, silicone couplers, o-ring on y-pipe, y-pipe gaskets, turbo and exhaust manifold nuts & studs, down pipe gasket, nuts & studs.
If i'm not mistaken, you need to reach 8lbs or the secondary doesn't come online. Someone please respond if that's incorrect.
If the car was just rebuilt before you bought it then it could be set for 5lbs for the break in period. It's possible you just need to crank the boost to 10lbs (total, not 10+10).
Typical leaks are: rubber coupling of air pipe to y-pipe, silicone couplers, o-ring on y-pipe, y-pipe gaskets, turbo and exhaust manifold nuts & studs, down pipe gasket, nuts & studs.
If i'm not mistaken, you need to reach 8lbs or the secondary doesn't come online. Someone please respond if that's incorrect.
10-22-2011, 08:55 PM
#19
Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: new mexico
Posts: 16
no sir. the poster above was correct. 8psi is necessary in order for the actuator to properly transition to the secondary turbo.
also, OP, our turbos do not add up as already stated. any ecu you have will not change that. there are only two ways i know of that our turbos can run, that is sequantial and NON-sequantial.
in sequantial which is stock, the primary turbo spools up to 10psi (stock) then for a brief moment at 4500, boost will drop to 8 psi then charge back up to 10 after transitioning to the secodary. which in actually is both turbos running together.
in NON-sequential, which some people do for simplicity sake, both turbos run all the time, this increases turbo lag, and helps some on the top end and also creates a smoother pull (no transition).
any ecu or boost controler you have will control only max psi so say for example if you are tuned for 12psi, and you are sequantial, your pattern would look something like 12-8-12 or something very close to it. if you are NON seq than your boost will simply be.. 12.
http://www.fd3s.net/boost_problems.html
this link explains how everything works and will help diagnose your issue. the lack of pull you are experiancing is a fall off of boost after the transition, its common but unfortunatly can be ALOT of diffrent things. your boost patters if i had to guess look like 12-8-0. it means that for some reason your are failing to transition to the secondary and the charge relieve valve is venting all of your boost.
also, OP, our turbos do not add up as already stated. any ecu you have will not change that. there are only two ways i know of that our turbos can run, that is sequantial and NON-sequantial.
in sequantial which is stock, the primary turbo spools up to 10psi (stock) then for a brief moment at 4500, boost will drop to 8 psi then charge back up to 10 after transitioning to the secodary. which in actually is both turbos running together.
in NON-sequential, which some people do for simplicity sake, both turbos run all the time, this increases turbo lag, and helps some on the top end and also creates a smoother pull (no transition).
any ecu or boost controler you have will control only max psi so say for example if you are tuned for 12psi, and you are sequantial, your pattern would look something like 12-8-12 or something very close to it. if you are NON seq than your boost will simply be.. 12.
http://www.fd3s.net/boost_problems.html
this link explains how everything works and will help diagnose your issue. the lack of pull you are experiancing is a fall off of boost after the transition, its common but unfortunatly can be ALOT of diffrent things. your boost patters if i had to guess look like 12-8-0. it means that for some reason your are failing to transition to the secondary and the charge relieve valve is venting all of your boost.