PLEASE HELP!
10-03-2006, 01:29 PM
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Mid-West
Posts: 791
Originally Posted by Rixio' post='839401' date='Oct 3 2006, 06:47 AM
A coolant gasses combustion check was done again and was negative
10-03-2006, 01:43 PM
#12
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 10
Originally Posted by herblenny' post='839410' date='Oct 3 2006, 03:36 PM
Rixio,
I know its hard for you to believe regarding your coolant seals, but its not that un common and by what you've listed, I say its your coolant.
First, bad coolant seals dont mean hard starting, smoke, or champagne bubbles. You'll usually see that when your coolant seals are completely gone and leaking like ****!
Also, I'm not sure how you did your pressure test but you need to do that over night. Not for couple of minutes. My guess is that when you crank the car and as the engine warms up, your exhaust gas (usually much much higher psi than your coolant) which passes thru your coolant seal and into your cooling system (hence over heating and over flow). But I could be completely wrong and I hope I am.
Good luck and let us know what happens... But do the cooling system test over night.. if you've already done that, I have no clue and only think you could do is take everything off and inspect all the cooling system parts.
But wouldnt there be some trace Hydrocarbons in the coolant & therefore show as positive?!?
How do you do a coolant pressure test over night? I just took it to a garage that specialise in performace cars and got them to do it, he said no leaks anywhere on the car and no drop in pressure...
The entire coolant system is brand new! I bought it all and installed genuine Mazda parts!
10-03-2006, 01:46 PM
#13
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Was: Cincinnati,OH.... NOW: Bham, AL
Posts: 632
Maybe I misunderstood what he refers to "coolant gasses combustion check", I thought he was checking coolant thru his exhaust. Which might not show. Unless he meant he got the coolant annalysized and showed no HC in it. If thats the case, I have no clue.
Rixio, take a pic of your engine bay and post it. Maybe it could be simple as no belt around the waterpump pulley
Rixio, take a pic of your engine bay and post it. Maybe it could be simple as no belt around the waterpump pulley
10-03-2006, 02:12 PM
#15
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 10
Iv done one better than a pic
Short video after an idle warm up...i left it for 5 mins then it started leaking out from the expansion tank grommet
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=43bdGs4ePlI
Short video after an idle warm up...i left it for 5 mins then it started leaking out from the expansion tank grommet
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=43bdGs4ePlI
10-03-2006, 02:29 PM
#16
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Was: Cincinnati,OH.... NOW: Bham, AL
Posts: 632
I'm watching your video now and I still say its your coolant seal. I had the same symptoms as you. Coolant will over flow from reserve tank, and when the engine cools down you have to fill the neck again as your reserve is completely empty.
Another thing is that you have FMIC. I was told by someone who spoke to very respected rotary figure that when coolant temps are maintained below 90C the chance of blowing out coolant seals are low. The FMIC restricts air flow to the rad and tends to over heat the engine. I recommend making some sort of ducting for your radiator. I'm also working on this for my Blk FD.
Good luck!
Another thing is that you have FMIC. I was told by someone who spoke to very respected rotary figure that when coolant temps are maintained below 90C the chance of blowing out coolant seals are low. The FMIC restricts air flow to the rad and tends to over heat the engine. I recommend making some sort of ducting for your radiator. I'm also working on this for my Blk FD.
Good luck!
10-03-2006, 03:30 PM
#18
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Mid-West
Posts: 791
I think it's a coolant seal too, but I don't know about the FMIC being a direct or indirect cause. My guess, if it's only been 6k since a rebuild, would be a faulty seal to begin with, or it was installed improperly.
I understand that Teflon impregnated is the way to go over OEM.
I understand that Teflon impregnated is the way to go over OEM.
10-03-2006, 04:24 PM
#19
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Was: Cincinnati,OH.... NOW: Bham, AL
Posts: 632
My statement about FMIC only meant by its cause for higher coolant temp. Not direct casue of the coolant seal failure.
Sounds like your in UK? My guess is that they used an iron from an engine with already blown coolant seal. Probably the shop didn't spec the plates and housing carefully and just slapped it together. Thru my experiencing buying blown coolant seal engines (including mine) all were mazda reman. Every single one.
Well, my advice is get a shop with lapper to do the work for you. Also, make sure they know what lapper is and inspect their work before they assemble the engine. When the plates are lapped, it should be perfectly smooth without any swirl marks. Also tolerance should be near 0.
Regarding Teflon... I had conversation with someone about this and someone told me they are slightly longer than oem and might pinch during assembly.. I personally would stick to oem as oem seals are reinforced certain areas. But talk to your builder and see what he thinks. I'm just an enthusiast who's learning about this car... still..
Sounds like your in UK? My guess is that they used an iron from an engine with already blown coolant seal. Probably the shop didn't spec the plates and housing carefully and just slapped it together. Thru my experiencing buying blown coolant seal engines (including mine) all were mazda reman. Every single one.
Well, my advice is get a shop with lapper to do the work for you. Also, make sure they know what lapper is and inspect their work before they assemble the engine. When the plates are lapped, it should be perfectly smooth without any swirl marks. Also tolerance should be near 0.
Regarding Teflon... I had conversation with someone about this and someone told me they are slightly longer than oem and might pinch during assembly.. I personally would stick to oem as oem seals are reinforced certain areas. But talk to your builder and see what he thinks. I'm just an enthusiast who's learning about this car... still..
10-03-2006, 04:37 PM
#20
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 10
F*ck F*ck F*ck
Yes im UK
The builder is a well known engine builder that has been doing this for 30+ years so knows his stuff & has a very good reputation...but...
Iv had sooo many problems though i doubt hes ever going to rebuild it for free...this started the week the warranty ran out as its been a full year since rebuilt. The last time i was there i had an overboosting problem which he attributed to a small wastegate..."It needs boring out" which to my understanding is not an issue unless running 400+hp...similair things have happened aswell with him so im abit reluctant to take it back..."Im kind of flexible about this sort of thing" he said when i asked if hed honor the warranty...
I dont know what im gona do atm, just really stressing about it!
Yes im UK
The builder is a well known engine builder that has been doing this for 30+ years so knows his stuff & has a very good reputation...but...
Iv had sooo many problems though i doubt hes ever going to rebuild it for free...this started the week the warranty ran out as its been a full year since rebuilt. The last time i was there i had an overboosting problem which he attributed to a small wastegate..."It needs boring out" which to my understanding is not an issue unless running 400+hp...similair things have happened aswell with him so im abit reluctant to take it back..."Im kind of flexible about this sort of thing" he said when i asked if hed honor the warranty...
I dont know what im gona do atm, just really stressing about it!