PLEASE HELP!
09-30-2006, 02:34 PM
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 10
A little background first...this a quick spec list, it was all carried out last year at the cost of £8k total!
Street Ported Engine 6k miles ago
Recond twins
Power FC
Feed Rad
New HKS Filters
New Larger Downpipe
KSP full exhaust system no cats no silencers
New Exedy twin clutch
New Plugs
New Leads
HKS FMIC
Running 316rwp on stock injectors @ 98% duty
Iv had an overheating problem for the last 4 months now. The car can get to 115'c! The filler neck to rad hose pressurises. It spews out coolant from the expansion grommet. The car has not been driven unless to test if it does overheat, which is only up and down the road 1/4 of a mile...the car idles fine with no champagne bubbles & doesnt chuck smoke out of the exhaust. It starts first time everytime whether hot or cold.All the belts are fine, in line, no slipping & connected correctly.
...This is what has been done to try and solve it...
1. All the coolant pipes in the engine bar the turbo hard pipes have been replaced.
2. All the AST pipes have been replaced
3. Some of the vacuum hoses have been replaced
4. Air pump has been removed
5. A/C pump has been removed
6. Fans have been replaced
7. Fan wiring has been replaced
8. Water pump has been replaced
9. Water pump housing has been replaced
10. Therostat has been replaced
11. Thermostat housing has been replaced
12. AST has been tested & replaced with stock & Pettit Racing
13. Compression check has been carried out, all ok
14. Combustion check has been carried out, all ok
15. Radiator has been flushed with caustic soda twice
16. Filler Cap has been replaced
17. All the clamps/jubilee clips have been replaced
18. Radiator has been replaced from Feed to stock
19. The Heater Matrix has been disconnected & bypassed
20. I Feel like ****
& yet today it still overheated after being off the road for the last month having all that work done to it! Today was when the rad was changed, it overheated after 2 minutes compared to 40+mins with the Feed rad...?!?!
I spent all my time and energy trying to get it fixed but its still happening & nobody can understand why!!!!!!!!
PLEASE HELP!!!!!
Street Ported Engine 6k miles ago
Recond twins
Power FC
Feed Rad
New HKS Filters
New Larger Downpipe
KSP full exhaust system no cats no silencers
New Exedy twin clutch
New Plugs
New Leads
HKS FMIC
Running 316rwp on stock injectors @ 98% duty
Iv had an overheating problem for the last 4 months now. The car can get to 115'c! The filler neck to rad hose pressurises. It spews out coolant from the expansion grommet. The car has not been driven unless to test if it does overheat, which is only up and down the road 1/4 of a mile...the car idles fine with no champagne bubbles & doesnt chuck smoke out of the exhaust. It starts first time everytime whether hot or cold.All the belts are fine, in line, no slipping & connected correctly.
...This is what has been done to try and solve it...
1. All the coolant pipes in the engine bar the turbo hard pipes have been replaced.
2. All the AST pipes have been replaced
3. Some of the vacuum hoses have been replaced
4. Air pump has been removed
5. A/C pump has been removed
6. Fans have been replaced
7. Fan wiring has been replaced
8. Water pump has been replaced
9. Water pump housing has been replaced
10. Therostat has been replaced
11. Thermostat housing has been replaced
12. AST has been tested & replaced with stock & Pettit Racing
13. Compression check has been carried out, all ok
14. Combustion check has been carried out, all ok
15. Radiator has been flushed with caustic soda twice
16. Filler Cap has been replaced
17. All the clamps/jubilee clips have been replaced
18. Radiator has been replaced from Feed to stock
19. The Heater Matrix has been disconnected & bypassed
20. I Feel like ****
& yet today it still overheated after being off the road for the last month having all that work done to it! Today was when the rad was changed, it overheated after 2 minutes compared to 40+mins with the Feed rad...?!?!
I spent all my time and energy trying to get it fixed but its still happening & nobody can understand why!!!!!!!!
PLEASE HELP!!!!!
09-30-2006, 06:19 PM
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 277
My stab in the dark would be bad water seal.. But guessing that has been checked and ruled out.
Radiator getting good flow of air after intercooler? Power Fc stock settings one fan comes on in the mid 90s other one high 90s . This can be lowered to the low 80s with power excel or datalogit.
If the radiator is stood up right for fmic and not bled an airlock may be causing your problems , most after market radiators will have a bleed nut on the top. Last maybe the fans are wired up to run in the right direction ?
Radiator getting good flow of air after intercooler? Power Fc stock settings one fan comes on in the mid 90s other one high 90s . This can be lowered to the low 80s with power excel or datalogit.
If the radiator is stood up right for fmic and not bled an airlock may be causing your problems , most after market radiators will have a bleed nut on the top. Last maybe the fans are wired up to run in the right direction ?
10-01-2006, 05:59 AM
#3
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 10
Fans are wired to be on from the ignition. So if the car is running they are constantly on. They are in the right direction. It overheats standing still now compared to before when it was fine whilst driving.
Iv been taught how to bleed the system by an engine builder and do it in the same way so shouldnt be any air in it whatsoever...also i use the hose in all of the coolant points i.e The throttle body spigot, the throttle body hose & the filler neck. This makes sure all the water is out of the system. Ontop of that i also burp it to make sure...
Iv been taught how to bleed the system by an engine builder and do it in the same way so shouldnt be any air in it whatsoever...also i use the hose in all of the coolant points i.e The throttle body spigot, the throttle body hose & the filler neck. This makes sure all the water is out of the system. Ontop of that i also burp it to make sure...
10-01-2006, 05:22 PM
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 277
When you installed the new water pump how was the condition of the water pump housing ? If there is large amounts of pitting it can cause bad circulation. Having removed air pump do you still have the pump pulleyturning the right way?
10-02-2006, 06:20 PM
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Was: Cincinnati,OH.... NOW: Bham, AL
Posts: 632
If I have to make a bet.. Its your coolant seal.
Do a pressure test like Singal 2 suggested. If you loose pressure, you'll see where its coming from.. If you don't see it, its leaking into your combustion chambers. If that happens, you know what to do next. This is a very common problems in rotary engines. I've bought 8 or so engines so far and most of them are coolant seal failures.
Good luck!
Do a pressure test like Singal 2 suggested. If you loose pressure, you'll see where its coming from.. If you don't see it, its leaking into your combustion chambers. If that happens, you know what to do next. This is a very common problems in rotary engines. I've bought 8 or so engines so far and most of them are coolant seal failures.
Good luck!
10-02-2006, 06:39 PM
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Mid-West
Posts: 791
Originally Posted by herblenny' post='839296' date='Oct 2 2006, 06:20 PM
If I have to make a bet.. Its your coolant seal. Good luck!
10-03-2006, 06:47 AM
#9
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 10
Everything covered by you guys has been carried out already...
The fans are wired so they are constantly from when the ignition is on & are new fans (tried 3 sets now)
A coolant pressure test has been done yesterday with no leaks
A radiator pressure test was done yesterday on the Feed one with no leaks or blockages, atm the stock rad is on the car
A coolant gasses combustion check was done again and was negative
The stock temp gauge doesnt move until 120'c+ which it used to get to before i got the PFC Commander that i now read off
The oil is ok and at normal levels
The thermostat has been changed to OEM once (The first one was OEM the 2nd was low temp)
The system is bleed properly because i was taught by an engine builder...i.e the throttle, filler neck & burped
The pressure caps have been changed
With regards to the water seals...it starts up fine all the time, no missing, no smoke, no champagne bubbles, no coolant gasses. Since i replaced all the hoses & pipes last week, put the stock rad on & put it all back together it overheats quicker than it did before. It starts pushing coolant out of the expansion from 80'c+ and the filler neck to rad pipe is pressurised from 50-60'c
There must be something im missing!
The fans are wired so they are constantly from when the ignition is on & are new fans (tried 3 sets now)
A coolant pressure test has been done yesterday with no leaks
A radiator pressure test was done yesterday on the Feed one with no leaks or blockages, atm the stock rad is on the car
A coolant gasses combustion check was done again and was negative
The stock temp gauge doesnt move until 120'c+ which it used to get to before i got the PFC Commander that i now read off
The oil is ok and at normal levels
The thermostat has been changed to OEM once (The first one was OEM the 2nd was low temp)
The system is bleed properly because i was taught by an engine builder...i.e the throttle, filler neck & burped
The pressure caps have been changed
With regards to the water seals...it starts up fine all the time, no missing, no smoke, no champagne bubbles, no coolant gasses. Since i replaced all the hoses & pipes last week, put the stock rad on & put it all back together it overheats quicker than it did before. It starts pushing coolant out of the expansion from 80'c+ and the filler neck to rad pipe is pressurised from 50-60'c
There must be something im missing!
10-03-2006, 09:36 AM
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Was: Cincinnati,OH.... NOW: Bham, AL
Posts: 632
Rixio,
I know its hard for you to believe regarding your coolant seals, but its not that un common and by what you've listed, I say its your coolant.
First, bad coolant seals dont mean hard starting, smoke, or champagne bubbles. You'll usually see that when your coolant seals are completely gone and leaking like ****!
Also, I'm not sure how you did your pressure test but you need to do that over night. Not for couple of minutes. My guess is that when you crank the car and as the engine warms up, your exhaust gas (usually much much higher psi than your coolant) which passes thru your coolant seal and into your cooling system (hence over heating and over flow). But I could be completely wrong and I hope I am.
Good luck and let us know what happens... But do the cooling system test over night.. if you've already done that, I have no clue and only think you could do is take everything off and inspect all the cooling system parts.
I know its hard for you to believe regarding your coolant seals, but its not that un common and by what you've listed, I say its your coolant.
First, bad coolant seals dont mean hard starting, smoke, or champagne bubbles. You'll usually see that when your coolant seals are completely gone and leaking like ****!
Also, I'm not sure how you did your pressure test but you need to do that over night. Not for couple of minutes. My guess is that when you crank the car and as the engine warms up, your exhaust gas (usually much much higher psi than your coolant) which passes thru your coolant seal and into your cooling system (hence over heating and over flow). But I could be completely wrong and I hope I am.
Good luck and let us know what happens... But do the cooling system test over night.. if you've already done that, I have no clue and only think you could do is take everything off and inspect all the cooling system parts.