Pettit Rebuilds
08-27-2005, 06:22 PM
#12
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: union, new jersey
Posts: 8,079
most engine builders that i've talked to will only use 3mm seals when 2mm seals will not fit the housings anymore. cheaper to mill and use 3mm seals than brand new rotors, and clearancing side seals, fitting new bearings.. etc etc. and from what i have read 3mm seals are harsher on the rotorhousings than 2mm
08-28-2005, 12:01 PM
#13
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: The Nooga
Posts: 1,101
[quote name='sweet7' date='Aug 27 2005, 04:06 PM']Ok well lets say this. Out of all the shops out there, who would you guys personally take you're FDs to for a rebuild and streetport?
[/quote]
It all depends on where you are located at. I took my car to BNR Supercars to have the motor rebuilt. Bryan doesn't do many engines but luckily he did mine for me. I'd feel safe having him do another. I've also recently met another engine builder close by that I'd trust. Anything over about three hours away would be out for me but luckily that leaves a lot of options open.
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It all depends on where you are located at. I took my car to BNR Supercars to have the motor rebuilt. Bryan doesn't do many engines but luckily he did mine for me. I'd feel safe having him do another. I've also recently met another engine builder close by that I'd trust. Anything over about three hours away would be out for me but luckily that leaves a lot of options open.
08-29-2005, 03:05 PM
#17
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Miami
Posts: 425
[quote name='sweet7' date='Aug 28 2005, 08:57 PM']I really dont care where I have to ship it, I just want quality work done.
Thanks Vosko, PM sent
[/quote]
well i know a few placed down here in florida
Thanks Vosko, PM sent
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well i know a few placed down here in florida
08-30-2005, 04:40 PM
#18
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Stacked outside you're trailer door
Posts: 1,430
Who?
I'm having a hell of time figuring this out. Everytime I think I have it nailed down, with regards to who I send it to, I read something or someone tells me not to go there. This will only be my 2nd rebuild, and the first one was way back when you could go to mazda and get a new motor. And the motor isnt the problem, I need someone that can do a good street-port. You name a company and I've looked into it, then someone comes along telling me how *insert whoever here* destroyed their engine.
GRRR
I'm having a hell of time figuring this out. Everytime I think I have it nailed down, with regards to who I send it to, I read something or someone tells me not to go there. This will only be my 2nd rebuild, and the first one was way back when you could go to mazda and get a new motor. And the motor isnt the problem, I need someone that can do a good street-port. You name a company and I've looked into it, then someone comes along telling me how *insert whoever here* destroyed their engine.
GRRR
08-30-2005, 05:14 PM
#19
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Wayne, NJ
Posts: 4,837
not 3rd gen related,. but 3mm related.
I got my car with 3mm seals in the motor already.
Now if anyone knows me when i had the car they know the abuse the motor went thru. I purposely tried to pop the motor more then a few times.
The internal wastegate imploded on my turbo (some old school t04e with an Int. WG) so the boost would just continually build. This was on stock injectors, stock ecu, stock everything, except i had a walbro...but i only added that for about the last 10k miles. This motor was run hard in pretty much that state for 60k miles. It also had slight (crappy) porting. SO other then 3mm Dual Sprung seals, FD Corner Seal Springs, Slight Crappy Porting, Straight Exhaust, Old T04E w/ Int. WG, and a cone filter it was completely stock, fuel, computer and ignition wise.
It ran like that for *60k miles*, just wanted to stress that again. More often then not every shift was at reline, and i saw 17psi on more then one occasion, on just normal 93octane, sometimes 94 if i was feeling frisky.
I, personally, believe the 3mm seals had something to do with that, because according to everyone else the motor should have exploded after barely 30k miles.
I do consider it an expensive thing to do for no reason tho, my motor came that way, if it didnt id have stayed with 2mm probably, until the rotors went out of spec then id machine it for 3mm.
That motor *NEVER* blew up, i finally gavce up and yanked it out before last winter to get the car painted and start my project i had been planning. I think i probably couldve ran it for another 20k miles as it had no problems running at all after the 60k, except the leaking OMP and some coolant issues that werent motor related.
edit: Oh and also as for 3mm seals being hard on the housings, my housings had no noticeable chatter from the apex seals, there was grooving possibly caused by oil starvation but it was not consistent with apex seal chatter. I believe they were new housings when the motor was built. so 60k miles of being beat to **** with 3mm seals and the housings would have still been very re-usable if it wasnt for oil starvation (leaking OMP lines, housings are being resurface with ceramic for the rebuild, then we will test 3mm seals vs ceramic housings)
kevin.
I got my car with 3mm seals in the motor already.
Now if anyone knows me when i had the car they know the abuse the motor went thru. I purposely tried to pop the motor more then a few times.
The internal wastegate imploded on my turbo (some old school t04e with an Int. WG) so the boost would just continually build. This was on stock injectors, stock ecu, stock everything, except i had a walbro...but i only added that for about the last 10k miles. This motor was run hard in pretty much that state for 60k miles. It also had slight (crappy) porting. SO other then 3mm Dual Sprung seals, FD Corner Seal Springs, Slight Crappy Porting, Straight Exhaust, Old T04E w/ Int. WG, and a cone filter it was completely stock, fuel, computer and ignition wise.
It ran like that for *60k miles*, just wanted to stress that again. More often then not every shift was at reline, and i saw 17psi on more then one occasion, on just normal 93octane, sometimes 94 if i was feeling frisky.
I, personally, believe the 3mm seals had something to do with that, because according to everyone else the motor should have exploded after barely 30k miles.
I do consider it an expensive thing to do for no reason tho, my motor came that way, if it didnt id have stayed with 2mm probably, until the rotors went out of spec then id machine it for 3mm.
That motor *NEVER* blew up, i finally gavce up and yanked it out before last winter to get the car painted and start my project i had been planning. I think i probably couldve ran it for another 20k miles as it had no problems running at all after the 60k, except the leaking OMP and some coolant issues that werent motor related.
edit: Oh and also as for 3mm seals being hard on the housings, my housings had no noticeable chatter from the apex seals, there was grooving possibly caused by oil starvation but it was not consistent with apex seal chatter. I believe they were new housings when the motor was built. so 60k miles of being beat to **** with 3mm seals and the housings would have still been very re-usable if it wasnt for oil starvation (leaking OMP lines, housings are being resurface with ceramic for the rebuild, then we will test 3mm seals vs ceramic housings)
kevin.
