Oil Suggestion
07-27-2005, 08:37 AM
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,850
[quote name='Cheers!' date='Jul 27 2005, 09:01 AM']John Force?
is VR1 a blend of conventional the synthetic vavoline racing oil?
[/quote]
"VR1 Racing Motor Oil's exclusive chemistry is designed to reduce friction and enhance power. It is among the most popular engine lubricants in all types of racing including CART, stock car and drag racing. It is recommended for engines burning gasoline and full or partial alcohol fuels in track and street service.
-High performance and protection for today's engines that run at high RPM
-New ashless anti-wear additives combined with ZDDP provide ultimate wear protection
-Enhanced anti-foam system helps protect the engine even during extreme stress
-Enhanced additives protect against high-temperature deposits for a cleaner engine
-Friction modifiers help improve horsepower output"
comparision chart between the grades
http://www.valvoline.com/products/VR-1%20R...Motor%20Oil.pdf
is VR1 a blend of conventional the synthetic vavoline racing oil?
[snapback]742989[/snapback]
[/quote]
"VR1 Racing Motor Oil's exclusive chemistry is designed to reduce friction and enhance power. It is among the most popular engine lubricants in all types of racing including CART, stock car and drag racing. It is recommended for engines burning gasoline and full or partial alcohol fuels in track and street service.
-High performance and protection for today's engines that run at high RPM
-New ashless anti-wear additives combined with ZDDP provide ultimate wear protection
-Enhanced anti-foam system helps protect the engine even during extreme stress
-Enhanced additives protect against high-temperature deposits for a cleaner engine
-Friction modifiers help improve horsepower output"
comparision chart between the grades
http://www.valvoline.com/products/VR-1%20R...Motor%20Oil.pdf
07-27-2005, 01:20 PM
#13
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 105
Calm down there tiger. Was just asking a question and putting in some knowledge of others experiences with synth oil. Either way rotary engines will make waste of your oil in 1k miles unless you have some super rotary under the hood. Hehe.
07-27-2005, 01:35 PM
#14
Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 33
[quote name='rfreeman27' date='Jul 27 2005, 11:54 AM']What the **** are you talking about. There is no problem running synthetic in our engines.
I use valvoline race oil, castrol is medium quality oil... I dont know any pro racers that use it...
[/quote]
Actually, its not synthetic oils that cause death, its the chemicals in them. Typically, the highest quality synthetic oils are are esther based (rather that cracked hydrocarbon, which low grade synthetics are)
Esther causes rubber to shrink, cracked hydrocarbon causes them to expand. Most oils use a mix of the two.
So yes, synthetics CAN cause death on your engine (depending on the chemical mix), but it depends WHICH oil you use. I personally use castrol red top 10w40 in my RX7 and she seems to like it. I would never use a synthetic, its like burning money
D
I use valvoline race oil, castrol is medium quality oil... I dont know any pro racers that use it...
[snapback]742978[/snapback]
[/quote]
Actually, its not synthetic oils that cause death, its the chemicals in them. Typically, the highest quality synthetic oils are are esther based (rather that cracked hydrocarbon, which low grade synthetics are)
Esther causes rubber to shrink, cracked hydrocarbon causes them to expand. Most oils use a mix of the two.
So yes, synthetics CAN cause death on your engine (depending on the chemical mix), but it depends WHICH oil you use. I personally use castrol red top 10w40 in my RX7 and she seems to like it. I would never use a synthetic, its like burning money
D
07-27-2005, 02:05 PM
#15
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,850
synthetic oil LASTS LONGER than mineral oil, but for me, I change my oil every 1500-2000 miles so I dont NEEd that longer lasting stuff. there is no performance issues between syn and mineral oil especially when you use the VR1 race oil i use. 3 a qt is hella better than 8 a qt for every 3 months when i change my oil.
07-27-2005, 11:06 PM
#17
Fabricator
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Central Ohio (Hebron) Zephyrhills Fla.
Posts: 1,322
[quote name='nopistons94' date='Jul 27 2005, 11:05 AM']synthetic oil LASTS LONGER than mineral oil, but for me, I change my oil every 1500-2000 miles so I dont NEEd that longer lasting stuff. there is no performance issues between syn and mineral oil especially when you use the VR1 race oil i use. 3 a qt is hella better than 8 a qt for every 3 months when i change my oil.
[/quote]
The long running friction (pun) over synthetic / vice / dino oil is about clean burning / vice / dirty burning, and not how well it lubricates.
The bearing area to load ratios are so good in the rotary that lubrication quality in normal use in not a factor. Almost anything will work.
The problem is that the crank case oil is also injected into the engine to lubricate the apex seals and is then expected to burn and leave no residue to foul the housings.
Since one of the features of synthetic oils is resistance to heat breakdown, there is little chance that complete burning ever happens.
As close as you can get is a straight weight dino oil. The multi grade dino oils have long train polymers that thicken the oil as temp goes up, and the polymers don't burn worth a crap either.
Mazda used to discourage use of synthetic oils. I don't know if that is still the case or not.
The japs have an oil that is said to have been used in the Lemans engine, but I don't know if it is a synthetic.
So its straight weight dino oil, or Richard Sohns adaptor to run a 2 cycle oil in a bottle on the firewall and a full synthetic in the crank case. Or premix a good 2 cycle oil in the fuel, and run a full synthetic in the sump.
I use 40 Wt. Redline synthetic in the drysump tank and premix Redline synthetic 2 cycle oil as a premix at one ounce per gallon in 93 octane pump gas. Shifting at 9,600 RPM since 1980.
Your results may vary.
Lynn E. Hanover
[snapback]743071[/snapback]
[/quote]
The long running friction (pun) over synthetic / vice / dino oil is about clean burning / vice / dirty burning, and not how well it lubricates.
The bearing area to load ratios are so good in the rotary that lubrication quality in normal use in not a factor. Almost anything will work.
The problem is that the crank case oil is also injected into the engine to lubricate the apex seals and is then expected to burn and leave no residue to foul the housings.
Since one of the features of synthetic oils is resistance to heat breakdown, there is little chance that complete burning ever happens.
As close as you can get is a straight weight dino oil. The multi grade dino oils have long train polymers that thicken the oil as temp goes up, and the polymers don't burn worth a crap either.
Mazda used to discourage use of synthetic oils. I don't know if that is still the case or not.
The japs have an oil that is said to have been used in the Lemans engine, but I don't know if it is a synthetic.
So its straight weight dino oil, or Richard Sohns adaptor to run a 2 cycle oil in a bottle on the firewall and a full synthetic in the crank case. Or premix a good 2 cycle oil in the fuel, and run a full synthetic in the sump.
I use 40 Wt. Redline synthetic in the drysump tank and premix Redline synthetic 2 cycle oil as a premix at one ounce per gallon in 93 octane pump gas. Shifting at 9,600 RPM since 1980.
Your results may vary.
Lynn E. Hanover
07-28-2005, 07:12 AM
#18
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 3,108
[quote name='nopistons94' date='Jul 27 2005, 08:37 AM']"VR1 Racing Motor Oil's exclusive chemistry is designed to reduce friction and enhance power. It is among the most popular engine lubricants in all types of racing including CART, stock car and drag racing. It is recommended for engines burning gasoline and full or partial alcohol fuels in track and street service.
-High performance and protection for today's engines that run at high RPM
-New ashless anti-wear additives combined with ZDDP provide ultimate wear protection
-Enhanced anti-foam system helps protect the engine even during extreme stress
-Enhanced additives protect against high-temperature deposits for a cleaner engine
-Friction modifiers help improve horsepower output"
comparision chart between the grades
http://www.valvoline.com/products/VR-1%20R...Motor%20Oil.pdf
[/quote]
That still doesn't tell me if it's syn or conventional oil.
-High performance and protection for today's engines that run at high RPM
-New ashless anti-wear additives combined with ZDDP provide ultimate wear protection
-Enhanced anti-foam system helps protect the engine even during extreme stress
-Enhanced additives protect against high-temperature deposits for a cleaner engine
-Friction modifiers help improve horsepower output"
comparision chart between the grades
http://www.valvoline.com/products/VR-1%20R...Motor%20Oil.pdf
[snapback]742995[/snapback]
[/quote]
That still doesn't tell me if it's syn or conventional oil.
