Non-seq Question
#1
Hey guys... I have a question regarding the soilenoids in the non-seq.... Do I have to use 1/2 300 watt resistors or can I just leave the solenoids attached and electically connected... Dont those do the same job as the resistors??? Can somone clarify this???
And if I do infact need to get resistors, what is invovled in hooking them up to the rack...
thanks
And if I do infact need to get resistors, what is invovled in hooking them up to the rack...
thanks
#5
Full Non-Seqential.. not that B.S. Poorman's. The REAL non-seq is a lot more work, but you will go from 50+ vacuum lines to about 3 or 4. You will rid yourself of all the stupid solenoids, hoses, and actuators. You'll need some blockoff plates which you can buy at K2RD.com and some mechanical skill.
You'll also need someone who can weld. Its well worth the conversion.. you'll also need a full set of mods.. cb, mp, dp, i/c, intake, PFC.
You'll also need someone who can weld. Its well worth the conversion.. you'll also need a full set of mods.. cb, mp, dp, i/c, intake, PFC.
#6
pete... I am doing the full non seq buddy, I've already tig welded all my **** up.
im asking in regards to the solenoids, even if you do the FULL non seq, the emissions control remains...
you can, instead of wasting your time making resistors, keep the solenoids on, they add equal resistance to the 1/2 300 watt resistors... you just dont hook up the vaccume lines
im asking in regards to the solenoids, even if you do the FULL non seq, the emissions control remains...
you can, instead of wasting your time making resistors, keep the solenoids on, they add equal resistance to the 1/2 300 watt resistors... you just dont hook up the vaccume lines
#7
Originally Posted by hulk' date='Jun 15 2003, 05:48 PM
pete... I am doing the full non seq buddy, I've already tig welded all my **** up.
im asking in regards to the solenoids, even if you do the FULL non seq, the emissions control remains...
you can, instead of wasting your time making resistors, keep the solenoids on, they add equal resistance to the 1/2 300 watt resistors... you just dont hook up the vaccume lines
im asking in regards to the solenoids, even if you do the FULL non seq, the emissions control remains...
you can, instead of wasting your time making resistors, keep the solenoids on, they add equal resistance to the 1/2 300 watt resistors... you just dont hook up the vaccume lines
My engine is barebones.. that to me, is the reason for doing non-seq or single turbo.
#8
Originally Posted by twinturborx7pete' date='Jun 15 2003, 06:14 PM
[quote name='hulk' date='Jun 15 2003, 05:48 PM'] pete... I am doing the full non seq buddy, I've already tig welded all my **** up.
im asking in regards to the solenoids, even if you do the FULL non seq, the emissions control remains...
you can, instead of wasting your time making resistors, keep the solenoids on, they add equal resistance to the 1/2 300 watt resistors... you just dont hook up the vaccume lines
im asking in regards to the solenoids, even if you do the FULL non seq, the emissions control remains...
you can, instead of wasting your time making resistors, keep the solenoids on, they add equal resistance to the 1/2 300 watt resistors... you just dont hook up the vaccume lines
My engine is barebones.. that to me, is the reason for doing non-seq or single turbo. [/quote]
I agree, why would you want to convert to full nonsequential but leave the solinoids in the car? I removed everything i could. Im just about ready to actually cut out the plugs for the solinoids altogether. You dont need them anyway and they only take up more space. Rikki cut his out and had no problems.
I threw out all the emmsisions controls as well.
#9
i wish it was that simple, but since Im running the stock ECU i dont want to have the check engine lights or the error codes... so I need somthing there to make the car thing i still got all those raspy emission controls =)
#10
to me it seems that a lot of people are trying to do things the CHEAP way instead of the RIGHT way. When you go non-seqential, to get the FULL benefit you should remove everything, cut and clean the old connectors off, so below the UIM is completly devoid of anything and run a stand alone ECU. It is also safer that way as the STOCK ecu is meant for SEQUENTIAL and will dump fuel at the wrong time. Do things right the first time and you won't be rebuilding later on. Remember spending 1grand now is better than 2-4grand later...