vosko

maybe your coolant temp sensor is dieing?

eyecandy

Which sensor is that on the water pump housing? I did have one of the wires snap off and I had to dremmel worund the plastic to get to it to solder it.... I guess I should take a look at that.



How can you check error codes?

j9fd3s

[quote name='eyecandy' date='May 31 2005, 06:50 PM']Which sensor is that on the water pump housing? I did have one of the wires snap off and I had to dremmel worund the plastic to get to it to solder it.... I guess I should take a look at that.



How can you check error codes?


[/quote]



coolant temp sensor

eyecandy

I figured out how to check the error codes, and if I did this correctly I have the following:



-30 Split air bybass (is this the ACV?)

-3 Crank angle G (is this the left or right one when looking at front of engine?)

-9 Water thermo sensor (what you guys suspected)



What I am not sure about is why 30 comes before the 3 and 9, I am going to recheck them tomorrow morning to see if they are right.

Nospig

Vac leak? did the injectors go in ok didnt damage one of the o rings installing, it happened to a friend. You removed egr,seq a nd stuff, youd be better off with the power fc pluged in then you can see whats happening. (remember to go to extras and turn seq off) and you can unplug the solinoids not used.

Did all the vac hoses replaced in silicone go where they are ment to?

eyecandy

The error codes I was recieving were 30, 33, and 39 all of them for the ACV. I just fixed that and now there are no error codes, but it still stumbles and dies when fully warmed. For the hell of it I diconnected the ISC wihile it was stumbling and it died immediatly, atleast that is working. During the warm up (around 1000-1200 rpm) the vac is at 15 inhg and pretty much stays there even when getting closer to normal idle of about 800-850, but then when it stumbles it down to about 10.



Would a bad coolant temp sensor trip the ecu? Also I know the sensor is behind the thermostat housing, its the green one correct? I also have a black one right below it what is that for?



I double checked all the vac lines to be sure they were connected properly and all seems good. I am very tempted to just put the PFC in and see how it handles it, but I have heard from people saying it best to have the car running good before so, do I really need to follow that advice?

eyecandy

This morning I decided to mess with the two idle adjustment screws to see if that would raise the idle, low and behold my idle is smooth in the 800-850, I may go back and adjust it down to 750-800. The engine just sounded smoother at 800-850 so I think I will leave it at that.



I took it out for a quick drive, my god I miss driving it already and wish I could have cruised longer. I had to cut it short due to smoke from under the hood, yes my turbos are still smoking, I cannot see it still being oils/greases/lubricatants from handling them, it should have burned off by now. It seems to be coming more from the rear turbo. So I just need to pinpoint if its the oil or coolant lines, I think its from the top side of the turbos. If I remove them I think I am going to go with a non seq setup.



During the drive I went into medium load and heard loud noise (sounded like a hose blowing off or BOV) I still have the OE bovs around the 6k-6.5k area. Looked at the engine bay quickly and verything seem secure, most importantly it stil drove and idled fine. Would fuel cut make such a noise? I am postive I did not hit over 10psi during the short burst. I will haev ponder alittle more.

vosko

if you take the twins off don't bother putting them back on lol

rotaryinspired

The smoke could be from your new exhaust if you put a downpipe on. I remember when I put my HKS downpipe on it smoked for a good 45 min. burning off all the crap on it. The reason I say that is because I thought my turbos where smoking and it was where the down pipe connects to the turbo.

eyecandy

How/when did yours begin to smoke?mine only starts when the engine is just about up to temperature.