I want to buy a 3rd gen
12-04-2005, 11:34 PM
#1
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Join Date: Dec 2005
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I've read buyers guides, and I've owned an FC before, but I'm looking into buying an FD. Is there anything in particular I need to look for on an FD that may be problematic.
I'm looking for one thats semi low miles, UN-modified. and decent paint
I might be looking at one later this week with 60K and is stock, but they want full retail book for it.... would it be worth it if it's in good condition or should I hold out and find one thats cheaper, I'm not being picky, but it just seems like a nice car.
I was attempting to limit myself to about $12,500 for one, but they want 14,9 for it (it's a 93). what do you think
I'm looking for one thats semi low miles, UN-modified. and decent paint
I might be looking at one later this week with 60K and is stock, but they want full retail book for it.... would it be worth it if it's in good condition or should I hold out and find one thats cheaper, I'm not being picky, but it just seems like a nice car.
I was attempting to limit myself to about $12,500 for one, but they want 14,9 for it (it's a 93). what do you think
12-05-2005, 12:11 AM
#2
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Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 10
two other things,
Is there a huge difference between the R1 and Touring in say a 93-94? anything to be concered about
Secondly, I want to try to lay something to rest, this will be a daily driver, that will probably take me a YEAR or more before I modify the engine other than safety stuff.... if I'm lucky I might get suspension by then, I DO NOT drive hard on the streets, but it will be daily driven, I was a mechanic for a while, so I DO know how to work on cars and know how a rotary works.
SO my question is, I hear a lot of **** talking about the third gen motor, A LOT!!!!!! AND I MEAN A LOT!!!! it's the first thing that comes out of almost EVERYBODIES mouth, EXCEPT people who really seem to know how to work on them, or race them..... See where I'm going with this? i find 2/3 of what most people say to be outlandish.... please help me lay this to rest, this will be a daily driver, with a maybe 2-3 time a year track car.
Now I'm not expecting the motor to last forever, but people act like they last a year.... or less I don't believe this,
Give me your thoughts.
Is there a huge difference between the R1 and Touring in say a 93-94? anything to be concered about
Secondly, I want to try to lay something to rest, this will be a daily driver, that will probably take me a YEAR or more before I modify the engine other than safety stuff.... if I'm lucky I might get suspension by then, I DO NOT drive hard on the streets, but it will be daily driven, I was a mechanic for a while, so I DO know how to work on cars and know how a rotary works.
SO my question is, I hear a lot of **** talking about the third gen motor, A LOT!!!!!! AND I MEAN A LOT!!!! it's the first thing that comes out of almost EVERYBODIES mouth, EXCEPT people who really seem to know how to work on them, or race them..... See where I'm going with this? i find 2/3 of what most people say to be outlandish.... please help me lay this to rest, this will be a daily driver, with a maybe 2-3 time a year track car.
Now I'm not expecting the motor to last forever, but people act like they last a year.... or less I don't believe this,
Give me your thoughts.
12-05-2005, 06:38 AM
#3
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Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Stacked outside you're trailer door
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14,9 sounds a little high for a 93 with that many miles. Probalby goona need an engine rebuild in the near future. And FD is a very bad buy if you plan on using it for a daily driver. The motor can be very nightmarish.
Not huge differences between the R1 and touring. The R1 model game with front lip, rear wing, stiffer suspension, dual oil coolers and some other ****. The touring is the "luxury" model with leather, sun roof, and the bose stereo.
Not huge differences between the R1 and touring. The R1 model game with front lip, rear wing, stiffer suspension, dual oil coolers and some other ****. The touring is the "luxury" model with leather, sun roof, and the bose stereo.
12-05-2005, 07:39 AM
#4
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Location: Mid-West
Posts: 791
http://rx7.voodoobox.net/infofaq/bguide3g/bguide3g.html
http://www.epinions.com/content_92709097092
^Couple of links that might help
I agree with Sweet regarding the FD as a daily driver, but for different reasons.
The FD is at least 14 years old, NOT fuel efficient, rides rough, has little luggage space and sucks on slick roads. If you've got much of a daily commute or live where it snows, you really need a daily beater.
Other than that, IMHO, if it's a solid car to begin with, you keep it relatively stock (except for reliability mods), keep it at stock boost levels, be semi-religious about maintanance and drive it....uh...maturely, you should get around a 100k on a motor. Tracking it will shorten the life-span. My .02.
In any event, good luck.
http://www.epinions.com/content_92709097092
^Couple of links that might help
I agree with Sweet regarding the FD as a daily driver, but for different reasons.
The FD is at least 14 years old, NOT fuel efficient, rides rough, has little luggage space and sucks on slick roads. If you've got much of a daily commute or live where it snows, you really need a daily beater.
Other than that, IMHO, if it's a solid car to begin with, you keep it relatively stock (except for reliability mods), keep it at stock boost levels, be semi-religious about maintanance and drive it....uh...maturely, you should get around a 100k on a motor. Tracking it will shorten the life-span. My .02.
In any event, good luck.
12-05-2005, 09:33 AM
#5
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 72
A FD Rx-7 will make for a very expensive daily driver, I would not reccomend using it every day unless you want to go through several hundered $$$ a month in gass alone. But if you dont mind the high price you will pay for gass then here are some things you should look for:
-Have the recalls been performed
-Does it have a boost guage and a proper boost pattern (bring one with if the car dosent have a guage)
-Does the owner have all the maintance records
-Has the car been inspected by a dealership, If not have a dealer look at the car.
Since you are looking for a stock, unmolested car you nicely sidestep a lot of prolbems if you were looking for one with a lot of mods. 14,9 sounds a little high for CAL, but that sounds just about right for WIS.
One other thing a car with realy low miles like under 30k can have all sorts of prolbems because the can has been sitting for the majoriry of its life, and cars are made to be driven, this is expecessly true with FD's. 60k is a good mile target, that averages out to about 5000 miles a year for a 93, which means that the car has seen the road regulary.
One other thing, pay attention to the owner and what they tell you about the car. If they tell you that it can do a 100ft burnout, and has done 170mph on the highway, the car has probibly been beaten to death and you want anything to do with it. I learned this lesson the hardway, before you buy just make sure get a dealer/rotary shop to check it out
-Have the recalls been performed
-Does it have a boost guage and a proper boost pattern (bring one with if the car dosent have a guage)
-Does the owner have all the maintance records
-Has the car been inspected by a dealership, If not have a dealer look at the car.
Since you are looking for a stock, unmolested car you nicely sidestep a lot of prolbems if you were looking for one with a lot of mods. 14,9 sounds a little high for CAL, but that sounds just about right for WIS.
One other thing a car with realy low miles like under 30k can have all sorts of prolbems because the can has been sitting for the majoriry of its life, and cars are made to be driven, this is expecessly true with FD's. 60k is a good mile target, that averages out to about 5000 miles a year for a 93, which means that the car has seen the road regulary.
One other thing, pay attention to the owner and what they tell you about the car. If they tell you that it can do a 100ft burnout, and has done 170mph on the highway, the car has probibly been beaten to death and you want anything to do with it. I learned this lesson the hardway, before you buy just make sure get a dealer/rotary shop to check it out
12-05-2005, 10:14 AM
#7
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Location: Mid-West
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Originally Posted by RE-Amemiya7' post='784001' date='Dec 5 2005, 09:33 AM
-Has the car been inspected by a dealership, If not have a dealer look at the car.
RE....good advice EXCEPT for that Dealership recommendation. Most MAZDA technicians have never even seen an FD. Other than being a rotary, there is little they are likely to know about the REW, especially when it comes to the sequential operation. I guess they could probably do a proper compression check, but IMO, he'd be better off looking for a good rotary specialty shop in his area.
12-05-2005, 11:17 PM
#8
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ok, so lets keep this going, so far the only thing that might bother me is the gas millage. I drive a 03 MR2 right now, which is fun for being an MR CRX.... for 17K
a rebuild or replace wouldn't be that huge of a deal, something I would take into account from the start. I drive like 25 miles a day, and 90% freeway, so it's not too hard on my car. Space? HAHAHAHAHAH have you driven an 03 MR2.... yeah the FD has tons more room.
I think I might sell my MR and buy like an EG6, pay that off and then get an FD
I'm assuming gas will cost twice as much as it does with this car, but the car will be costing me less so it balances out.
a rebuild or replace wouldn't be that huge of a deal, something I would take into account from the start. I drive like 25 miles a day, and 90% freeway, so it's not too hard on my car. Space? HAHAHAHAHAH have you driven an 03 MR2.... yeah the FD has tons more room.
I think I might sell my MR and buy like an EG6, pay that off and then get an FD
I'm assuming gas will cost twice as much as it does with this car, but the car will be costing me less so it balances out.
12-06-2005, 09:10 AM
#9
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Dont assume the FD will cost you less. The FD is a very labor intensive car and can be quiet expensive. Bottom line is IMO, I wouldnt trust the car to get me to and from work everyday.
12-06-2005, 10:22 AM
#10
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Location: Mid-West
Posts: 791
Big differences between an 03 Toyota NA and a 93 TT with a sequential system that was finicky when new, and which you can't (IMO) take to the local dealership if your not in the mood (or have the skill/knowledge level) to mess with it yourself. But it looks like you've made up your mind already to buy one for a DD. So go for it.
Who knows, maybe someone will post up that it's the smartest thing you could ever do.
Who knows, maybe someone will post up that it's the smartest thing you could ever do.