Hey all!Finally im getting my FD on Tuesday morning.Ive allready test drove it and took it to the nearest rotary shop in Monroe Mi,called Banzai Racing.Its checked out great!Thanks for telling me about that Rotay Shop MichRX7!I thought I would need to go out of state and that got me a little upset until you gave me that info.Sorry I dont have more pics except for in my avatar,as soon as I recieve the FD I will post up pics.Now I will be at meets and ****!Here is a little about my FD....



Royal Blue 1995 Touring w/black interior

65,000 miles and a new 13B RE Cosmo motor installed just 2 months ago.Bone Stock except for Apexi GT Spec

exhaust.Has 3 piece 18" Nitche Pulteks and Nitto tires.

The cost is $19,250.



I have a couple Q's I would like to ask you people.........



1)How do I break in this new engine?

2)What should my next upgrades be?

3)Should I perform some sort of fuel upgrade even though there is only one performance upgrade?



Thanks for your help!



P.S - Anyone with 18 inch Andrew Racing Fs,Blitz Technospeed Z1s or Enkei Aegis rims I will be willing to trade,reason due to weight.



https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/boink.gif https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683329.gif https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683329.gif https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/bigok.gif https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683329.gif https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683329.gif https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/boink.gif

congrats https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/bigok.gif

To break in the engine you will need to keep the rpms below 4k and boost below 5psi. Or you could go even lower like staying out of boost all together. Just don't drive the car hard! In the meantime start researching what do to with mods and upgrades.

and change your oil alot. like every 1.5k

Damn seriouslly change it every 1,500 miles,you got to be shitting me?

Not shitting you

I'm guessing you didnt even bother researching on what you were getting yourself into....Did you? https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683664.gif



Plugs will also have to be changed every 5k-10k miles. And they dont have them at your local autozone either. All parts for this car will have to be ordered. Dont plan on Mazda having them either.

im talking about breaking the engine in. You should do it as often as possible with a fresh engine. Once you get her broken in, i would change oil every 2-2.5k.

Thanks for the help people.Will they have plugs and such at the Rotary Shop near me?I also forgot to add in the specs new Bi-State Customs Stock Twins.How do I break those in also?

as said before, just go easy on everything for a while.



please read all the noobie threads (lots of good ones in the other forum, third gen section, stickied at the top)



take the time to do this PLEASE!



*sigh* i dont want to see another fucked up FD

The shop should have the plugs. I really cant see a rotary shop not having rotary spark plugs.

Thanks bros you are a great help!On the other forum they damn near ripp your ******* head off.

For the first 500 miles on a new engine take it really easy, cannot stress that enough. Then at 500 miles change the oil. May sound stupid and you probably won't want to do it, but it must be done, no excuses. After that take it easy for the next 1000 miles. After that change your oil again. Then you are good to go 2500 miles between changes.

Thats one hell of a FC if thats yours in your avatar!Thanks bros you are a great help!This is by far the best forum around,where can I get a NOPISTONS sticker for across the top of my front window?Gotta Represnt! https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...DIR#>/wink.png https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683473.gif https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683329.gif https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683473.gif

PM him, his name on here is bluetii. I was in his shop yesterday, he's got a bunch of stuff laying around, so he's probably got em, and if he doesn't I'm sure he can get em for ya.

Thanks for telling me his screen name,its going to be very helpfull.

you can get ngk plugs at your local Advance Auto. Most of them don't carry the plugs in stock, but they can order them and have them the next day.

Thanks but id rather go to the rotary shop I need some info on things.

why?



NGK plugs, are NGK plugs. the only difference is that the rotary shop will charge more for them.

I will go see for myself not to be an ass or anything cause after I bought this **** im pretty tight with money,its well worth it though.

Ummm....I went to O'rileys, Autozone, and pepboys. Pepboys was the cheapest at $15.99. I went to Maz-Maz at the other end of houston and got them for $10.99.



Now if it was worth the 2 hour drive or not is a different question https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683664.gif

RE Cosmo, did you ask why?

13b-re huh?...lol...your fucked now. What EMS are you running? What EMS do you plan on running? Plan to spend another $10K to 20K.

Oh yeah, and I could get spark plugs at the autozone in Wilmington, they had a bunch on stock.

Really...Bad Ass!!



I am 1 of 2 FD's in my side of town. I guess it would be pointless for them to even stock them. However I might be all wrong because the Rx-8 just came out and stores might have started stocking them again https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/bigok.gif

https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub..._DIR#>/sad.png Plan to spend another $10k to $20k for what?Thats alot of money! https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/angry.png

Why am I fucked whats wrong with the RE Cosmo?

nothing wrong with the cosmo 13B re at all. Problem is...the ECU. Can't make it a plug and play anymore. If you do ANY mods, you'll have to spend big bucks on a Haltech/Microtech/Electromotive system. If you blow the motor and your end plates get fucked up you'll need RE end plates...good luck finding them in the states.

So I would have to order the RE end plates from Japan?Im not going to mod this car at all for about a year 1/2.Im gonna get used to the power it has now once shes broken in,I wont put the gas pedal to the floor until then.Im definatlly not going to blow the motor anytime soon so im not worried about it that much untill it happens.

Another fd which will be destroyed by a dumbass teenager that speaks ebonics thnking he can just grab and go.



Knowing nothing about a 3rd gen.wow.that is crazy.The reason ppl rip your head is cause you give advice to ppl on rotaries and you just proved a point that you didnt know the RE-cosmo doesnt come stock.Then you are wanting to post about a fast and furious body kit too.dear god.how about learn a little before you buy an fd. and if your tight on cash then after buying then dont buy it.it is an expensive maintenance car. well live and learn.he'll buy it and it will either be crashed or blown up in a couple months.



And your new post will be i tried to to do 9k rpms and i heard a clunking noise.

Thats a first class ******* for ya!How did I prove that I didn't know a 13B RE Cosmo motor doesn't come stock?Then you say I posted about a damn bodykit when I posted about a hood,read correctlly!

Everybody calm down.



4Rotor: The reason we're all confused about the RE is because of this question. Why would someone replace a BREW with an inferior engine unless they didn't know what they were doing or just thought it'd be cool to have a Japanese motor? Okay, I don't want to dog the Cosmo RE, but hey lets face it, the BREW is stock in the FD for a reason!!!



I think you should go to the seller again and get more info, because going blindly into the purcahse is just plain stupid.



Good luck son!!! LOL

*SIGH* he wanted to put a holley carb kit on his FD...





yeah dont worry about the hood until after you do maintence, and reliability mods!

Help me out people should I buy this FD or get another one?Why is the RE Cosmo such a problem as to a 13b REW?I thought the Cosmo was the better engine of the two?Do you know of a good site were I can read up on both the Cosmo and REW,ive heard arguements of the two but still it didnt tell me every fact and detail for all I know they could of been wrong or telling fairy tales.Help me out.

Problem is you 'll never know when the motor will go. Sometimes it will just go, even if it's newly rebuilt.

Calm down... https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/boink.gif

Srce, the 13B-re is a SUPERIOR engine(has bigger intake runners) If this engine was ported, then it would be FAR more superior.

the cosmo motor in an FD is NOT the problem. But good luck finding parts....that's the problem. I told myself I'd do all the "reliability" mods, then work on "fast" later. Guess what...I blew a motor doing that. Imagine you doing that...and having to buy the parts and pay someone to fix it. Or better yet, you can't find anybody to fix it and have to put the stock engine in....



With the FD, EXPECT to blow **** up. Ask ANYBODY who's owned one. You will come out LOSING money if you don't know **** about it. We know you want to learn, but the next thread about the FD you post is about a HOOD? WTF? Learn about the damn car first! **** ANY body parts...that hood isn't going to help you trouble shoot the car when it won't start.

Now I am lost. Is he buying an FD with a cosmo engine that was just put in? Whoa buddy....hes screwed. Im guessing it isnt just a plug and play type of engine. Hes gonna have problems with it and not even know where to start...

Quick question. What makes you think it is a 13b RE motor?



If they used all the Fd parts on the Cosmo block, the only obvious way to tell from the outside is to look at the oil pan and engine mounts.



Van, 10-20 grand, are you trying to scare the kid? I know you know better.