My FD is dead again https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683358.gif While tuning @ around 6500 in 3rd the rear rotor went. The tuner is well know local tuner and knows what he is doing. Sounds like 2 apex seals are toast, need to do a compression check just for fun. What is weird is the was no knock, running 13.2 A/F and only 1.1-1.2 bar. The timing was 13 with 8 split I believe, have to look a datalogit again. I will be taking the motor apart this week to see what happened, untill then it will be a mystery to me. (Pictures soon) https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683561.gif I have though of everything and i can't seem to figure out why it would blow. I have the new mazda 2 piece apexs, and all the toleraces where good when I rebuilt it. (mostly new parts) It was only a mild streetported (ports cleaned up)with opened up exhaust ports.



Was seeing full boost @ 5200 on a t-88 34d, with the 22cm exhaust housing.



Guys have any ideas???

13.2 A/F and only 1.1-1.2 bar is what's wrong... I hope you mean that your cruising A/F was 13.2 and your max boost was 1.1-1.2 ... https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...DIR#>/wink.png

your right, oops. Still a little pissed

that sucks man... good luck with that

I'll post my map and maybe one of you can tell me if it looks fishy. It seems like when one FD is fixed and running again, then one has to die at the same time.

What were your a/f's when you blew it? I know that there's a particular car on Okinawa(not my own) that mysteriously destroys apex seals.



If it's any condolensce to you, my entire wiring harness decided to fuse itself to...itself https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/blink.png I've got a serious wiring nightmare going on in my car...but at least the engine's good(for now) https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683329.gif

13.5 a/r is what you would run if you are using something like water injection , without it you should be somewhere between 11.3 and 12 max. On a high performance turbo rotary , you dont hear knock , they just stop working !!!.

My a/f under boost was 11.1 to 11.4 after looking back at the datalogit.

I am going to take it apart today, I pulled it yesterday.



Van if need another harrness I have one, just PM me your address. It seems like it never ends. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683358.gif

How many miles on the motor?

6,000 KLM.

As you said toddp31 [QUOTE]It seems like when one FD is fixed and running again, then one has to die at the same time. I strongly agree. Anyway,hope yr fd get fixed soon. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/happy.png

Haha, I almost fell out of my chair when I read that!



Sorry to hear about the motor.. That's never fun. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/angry.png

Which harness do you have exactly? There's the engine harness that attaches to the computer(that harness seems to be okay for now). Then there's the harness that attaches to the fuel block that goes around the car(fender to fender which is the one I haven't pulled yet) and then there's the one that the starter/alternator/coils are located on(pulled that one apart today...still good). I still have to do the internal harness(the bitch) and have to do part of the ignition crap. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...DIR#>/wink.png

that is worse then the engine taking a dump.

How much ignition advance were you running , what type of porting ?, I found out the HARD way that it doesn't matter if you have perfect a/f ratios when your ignition is too advanced , it going to pop anyway. For me proper ignition is more important than a/f ratio and

It is a very mild streetport(intake tracks cleaned up) and exhaust port to match the sleeve. I'll post the base map and the ignition maps tonight when I get home from work. I believe it was 14-13 with a spilt of 8 while under boost.

Can't get my map to post https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683358.gif

yep...I'd rather rebuild an engine than pull the ENTIRE FD wiring harness out.

Now I have to decide:



BP or Streetport



I have housing to do both https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683561.gif A

Go with the SP. It will be plenty to get you where you want to be.

bridge it you sissy https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...DIR#>/wink.png

I fixed my wiring harness problem. Also made the new harness REALLY clean...took out all the crap I didn't need.

A/F ratio in the 13s under boost and the tuner knows what they are doing https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683664.gif

You'll bridge port your engine but you won't drag race your car. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683561.gif Sissy huh https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/bigok.gif

https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683561.gif Who me?



Who said I don't drag race?

Yea you! Everytime I read something about possible drag racing at an event you say you don't want to race "just incase you break something". I have never once seen you talk about racing day or post a time slip. So again, why bother getting a bridge port if you don't race the car? Wouldn't a street port be sufficient for the type of driving you do? https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/BURNOUT.gif

If that is your map, then you need to send me a datalog. What were you boosting? You have some nasty negative split going on. This is your split map:

was running off the wastegate spring, the .8 to 1.1 spring.

You got me all wrong man. I've been many times. Just not 2 1/2 hours away from home. Best I've ever run was 12.9 at 111. That was about 1 1/2 years ago though.



You just wait https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...DIR#>/ohmy.png

Looks like you were using P16 and below since P17 is 1.8 kilos and P20 is 3 kilos!





On a side note, why didn't you turn your fan settings down? That way your water temps sit much lower. I have mine set at 88C.

Now not wanting to race far away from home I can understand. I was just busting balls cause i thought i heard you say once you didnt wanna race @ capitol incase you snapped an axel.

But I'll be waiting. You'll buy some DVD player for your Geeride before you ever get a turbo the way your going lately. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...DIR#>/wink.png

I was just about to say the same thing.



I can imagine that poor FD sitting in yor garage https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub..._DIR#>/sad.png

Yea, Justins Fd is gonna go Christine and kill him and the Tahoe. LOL

Something is messed up with my fans, so I just wired them to a switch. At the time I didn't have datalogit, I'll have to go back and find the problem and then control it with the PFC.

Its coming sooner then you might think.

Ok I took it apart to day and the rear stationary bearing was toast, also killing the e-shaft in the process. All 3 apex seals on the rear rotor were blown right in the center on the seal. Cause alot of damage to the rotor and rotor housing, but nothing else. I was expecting much worse. I don't know why the bearing got ate up, oil starvation? Everything was done to spec, https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683561.gif



So here is the question: If timing was mess up as IGY stated would it kill all 3 apex seals? Or did one just take out the rest? I think the engine died at peak torque, would a bad stationary gear cause all the apex seals to go? https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683561.gif



I will post some pictures of the beat up e-shaft, rotor and bearing.



Anyone have some FD rotors or Zenki FC rotors they want to get rid of???

Really odd that the rear stationary gear bearing let go...I've only seen 2 bearings go and both were fronts.



Todd, what boost do you want to eventually run? I'm sure you could convince IGY to send you a map.

I want to run 1.4 or 1.5 or the BP motor. I Pmed IGY but no answer back. Do you when he works, I don't want to call him while he is there?

wait, wait, wait....you said that all 3 apex seals were blown in the CENTER...you have any pics? The first motor I blew I fucked up the timing and it blew out the centers in all 3 of the apex seals also.

pics?