I agree w/ rotary villain..



I went down to Tampa one year for their rotary get together and one of the local Tampa rotary shop owner gave a talk on engine building.. When I asked if he lap the housings, he said sometimes.. I asked him if he specs all the parts, he said since he's been building engines for 10 years or so, he could tell if somethings out of spec.. I'm sorry but no one can tell the difference between 1/1000th of an inch.



I have a local guy here will only charge 65 per side and will spec the iron to make sure its perfectly flat. I think he gives discount for large number of irons.

well im prob goign o rebuild it now just cause i was going to anyways next spring. i will get ahold of some people and see about geting them lapped to spec. i want to send my rotors out and get them coated to reduce carbon and im going to buy the atkins rebuild kit. and put it together.

Getting the rotors coated is waste of money in my opinion... And I would use OEM seals vs other aftermarket seals.. but its up to you, not me..

no kinda it is up to you guys, lol you guys have done this stuff before and this will be my first rebuild so everything you guys tell me I seriously take to heart on building my motor. if coating is a waste and OEM is best then I will go that route, where can i pick up a OEM rebuild kit? my mazda dealer tells me they dont make um.

Mazda doesn't make so called, "KIT". But Ray at Malloy Mazda will put a "kit" for ya. Pretty much all the new seals and gaskets for a rebuild and he knows all the part numbers.

They are also very reasonable in price. I get special pricing at my local dealership (Trussville Mazda) and Malloy's prices are very close to it.



But my recommendation is to get someone to build it for ya. I personally don't have time to pull and re install engines... also if you do something wrong and the engine goes, it might cost you more money than you trying to save..

Not likely to be a vacume line problem but check the connection to your boost sensor on the fire wall, driver side of the car. Its a small sensor with one vacume hose connected to it. If you came to a sputter and it shut off it sounds like a fuel problem. But on the other hand you did an oil change the day before so I can only think that maybe something occurred because of that.

im going to rebuild my motor over xmas now... do any of you guys suggest me doing anything to my motor while its apart and when i can cryo freeze stuff, coat, port exe... or just slap it back together stock and have at it... also doing a good street port with the stock turbos if ran non-sequentially will i feel a difference with the port or will the turbos be too small to really benifit from the porting??

Do some search on the forum for those questions... Far as I can remember, people have asked those questions many many times... If not on this forum, on the RX7club.



Also, by reading your other posts, your brother seems like he knows quite a bit... porting the engine is pretty much the same as porting piston engine.. I'm sure he could explain it to you better over the phone than us writing it for ya.

i dont think my motor is popped... i took the plugs out and poured a lil ATF in each hole and waited 3-4 hours and it turned over a lil bit and then locked up again. so i went to the store and bought a fish tank vacume pump and filled it with atf and forced atf in each hole and am letting it sit again.. ill do this untill it breaks free if i get the same results again... but i think it just carbon locked.. ohh well im still going to rebuild it here soon... any advice on doing these unlock stuff??