it seems that since the temps have dropped into the high 30's and 40's here in mississippi, that my car has become slower to respond. i KNOW that the small POS battery that i have because of my FMIC. it seems that the engine is harder to turn over, and that it really takes a long time for the temp gauge to come up even the slightest bit. i also think that my blower/heater is going out. it feels a little warm on the floor setting but it doesnot warm the upper vent air. not to mention that the a/c does not blow hard either. whether or not the a/c is on.....



can anyone shed some light on this for me.....????



lou

 

do you have a thermostat ???

 

yeah. 180deg.

 

make sure it still works.... sounds like its bad to me !

 

The upper vents should only blow warm air, not hot air. The hot air only comes out of the defroster and floor vents. Something I can't understand is that my heater will sometimes just not work. Other times it kicks ***, but some days, it just won't do ****.

You also should consider relocating the battery to the inside, so you can get a better battery and more space.

 

i am thinking about the relocation of the battery for the near future. will the extended cable lengths affect the voltage. i already seem to have weird readings from my A/F meter when different loads are seen. for example, with no load, and the car simply running, i see about 2-3 green lights on the autometer a/f guage. when i turn on the lights or run the blower for the air or heat, or press firmly on teh brake, the voltage reading on the guage lowers into the stoich area.



the lights are more dim at idle, and when the car is "loping" during warm up, you can see the lights dim and brighten.



i do have an under drive pulley, and have also added a few engine grounds; one off of the battery to the frame, and a few more off of the uim area to the firewall and the fenders.



any more info for me????



i love this place.....



louis

 

I think the main problem with the voltage is the pulleys. I've noticed this too. When the car is idling, it takes longer for the windows to roll up.

My attempt at fixing this was to run a few extra cables: One from the positive battery terminal to the hot side of the alternator, one from the negative terminal to the alternator bracket, and one from the negative terminal to the strut tower. It seems to help some. Although it could just be psychosematic.