DUB

I'm like most FD owners, not satisfied



I've eliminated many things out of my engine bay, like the twins and the mess they bring...pulley driven air pump, fuel pump resistor, etc.



Another cheap and easy way to pass wires through the firewall is to use the harnesses already in place.



This picture shows the front relay box turned into part jumper box.



I spliced my Haltech ouput wires into the stock harness behind the passenger kick panel.



1 - I sent my airpump trigger thru the fuel pump (speed) signal wire and power my own relay (don't mind the spade connectors, my socket hasn't come in yet ) and fuel pump resistor (now air pump speed resistor)



2 - I sent my WI solenoid trigger thru a stock air pump signal.



3 - I use a switched B+ signal (from Air Pump Relay) to the hatch thru the stock fuel pump circuit (fuse and main relay) to power my WI pump in the hatch. (pict0012) Added a connector to the stock fuel pump to power the pump, since I rewired the fuel system with Haltech.



I agree, I should of had better planning, but I didn't add the systems at the same time, so yes the stock air pump is powering the stock fuel pump circuit for water injection and the fuel pump speed is powering my electric air pump...but I do have detailed diagrams for all the work I do to this car.



PICT0004 - neat use for the cargo cover



Again I apoligize for the quality of my photos, enjoy.



I hope this helps when people want to add systems under the hood.

DUB

these pics might help see what's going on too.



1 - shows the new harness coming out of the relay box



6 - shows the air pump and WI solenoid mounting bracket.

Fe3Boost

Nice. Trying to keep it factory

DUB

geeze, I'm not sure what happened, but here are the bitmap files...I couldn't open the orginal ones I posted.





MODS - please help clean this thread (double post, huge bitmaps...)

Fe3Boost

You are going to have to write you own wiring diagram for the next owner if you sell it. Good jerb! when will she be running again?

DUB

If I have to sell her, that's a bad day. I've wanted this car since 96 when I driving a 91 Seven.



oh, she's been running since late september...I just take her down during the week to keep my mod bug happy.





The airpump is running as close to stock as I'm willing to do...800-3000rpms, actually smells better behind the car now.



I'll have the entire WI running by this weekend, so hopefully I'll have some good results to report.

DUB

Rikki - Without WI 2nd & 3rd gear pull ~7k (still not tuned ) I'd see temps 143F (62C) and with WI, I'd see 117F (47C). Not bad IMO, but I need to get an EGT and a WB straped to her and fine tune the H2O. Right now, I have it coming on at 4500rpms (off at 4300), ~8psi (off at 6psi). I hit fuel cut in 4th (14psi), boost use to hold at 12psi or so...looks like I'm getting a little creep with the cooler AIT's.



As an added bonus...I might eliminate my IC sprayer. Probably should and use that duct for my air box I need to make.



https://www.nopistons.com/forums/index.php?...e=post&id=27532



check my BOV in the pic, the WI is taped into the IC pipe on the elbow...during shifts the BOV mist the IC

DUB

PICS

ambassador_josh

Looking good there buddy.

DUB

Thanks!