ok i searched but i could not find the diagram i was looking for. It is the picture of full non sequential vacuum line set up. The lines are colored and everything. can anybody help me please?

Attachment 21458



this is if you want to keep the airpump. otherwise ignore the solenoids

You can't be serious...that's all the vacuum lines you need when you do full non-sequential? Gawd that alone makes non-sequential tempting.

do i need a larger fuel pump if i go non sequential? i'm buying a power fc, i have an avcr to control boost, downpipe, catback, and intake.

[quote name='rx7girltk' date='Aug 24 2005, 04:23 PM']do i need a larger fuel pump if i go non sequential..


[/quote]

no..

thanks guys i appreciate it

[quote name='MugenCho' date='Aug 24 2005, 02:47 PM']You can't be serious...that's all the vacuum lines you need when you do full non-sequential? Gawd that alone makes non-sequential tempting.


[/quote]

yes, I'm serious

are you having problems with your sequential setup? cuz if its running good, you migh wanna keep it the way it is

not having problems..but a few of my check valves broke off in the lines, i have my exhaust manifold out already, and my brother never wants to deal with those vacuum lines again.

Just be careful which gate you remove from the twins. First time I did this, I removed the wastegate. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...rcadefreak.gif

i'd never own a seqential turbo'd FD again. Convert it or go single Tara.

TERBOCHARGE IT!!

[quote name='rx7girltk' date='Aug 26 2005, 10:08 AM']not having problems..but a few of my check valves broke off in the lines, i have my exhaust manifold out already, and my brother never wants to deal with those vacuum lines again.


[/quote]





haha, good enough excuse

another question should i port the wastegate? if so how much?

If you are running no cat, porting is a good idea. Close WG, spray a finish over the WG then you'll be able to get an idea of how much you can port.



you can send it to pettit, they'll port the WG, blueprint, and ceramic coat for ~$250...they tend to replace beat oil and coolant lines as well.

send injectors to RC for clean/balance (3 day turn around)...another good idea while the car is getting worked over.

ok i have some more questions.



1. Should i remove the butterfly in the y-pipe?

2. Do i remove and block the thing under the uim?

3. Since i have a power fc do i need to put the resistors in the silenoids?

1) yes

2) yes, if you want to get rid of the air-pump (ACV, secondary air injection and port and split air to the cat)

3) no resistors required in the solenoids.

thanks im keeping my air pump so i wont block of the thing under the uim

update, how's things going with the project?

slow but good so far (crosses fingers) it is taking a long time because we had to drill out the turbo manifold stud holes retap them and put in helicoils. Then we realized that we took off the wastegate and not the pre-control so we had to put that back on. Then since the holes were not drilled perfectally straight the downpipe would not fit correctly so we had to drill out the holes on it. I had to dremel some of the gasket holes because of this same problem. And now one of the nuts wont go on so my brother bought some bolts hopefully those will work. Plus my brother is installing an AVC-R and rewiring my turbo timer (wasn't wired right to automatically count down). Then i dremeled my radio din out so i could fit the AVC-R in it. And i am making a Power FC mount. So hopefully this weekend it will be done. I will post pics and stuff when it is done since i dont think i every posted pics of my car.





I have another question, to wire the pre-control door open is the arm pushed twords the front of the car or the rear?

[quote name='rx7girltk' date='Sep 14 2005, 03:51 PM']I have another question, to wire the pre-control door open is the arm pushed twords the front of the car or the rear?


[/quote]



I had mine welded shut. the arm of the actuator would move towards the rear of the car to open the precontrol door.

I have another question.



1.What do i block off if i im keeping the air pump?

2.Where is the double throttle?

3.What is the AWS pipe and solenoid? and where are they?

4.What is the ISC/BAC Solenoid? and where is it?



sorry for all the questions just want this to be right the first time.

ok nevermind question #2 and do i remove #3 and 4 if i keep the air pump and have a power fc? I heard that th epower fc does not read the aws so it is ok to remove it but i want to make sure.

AWS is cruel and unusual punishment, remove.

I have haltech, rev my engine to 1500rpms when cold and drop to 1300 after ~20s, and drop to 900 once warm. 3K until warm is freakin' nuts if you ask me. You'll need two block off plates.



ISC is on the back side of the UIM, near the TPS...it allows air to bypass the throttle plates when load is increased on the engine, AC, lights, etc...don't remove.



You don't really need to block anything else off, if you are keeping the air-pump.



EGR, AWS and DT can go.