Hi - see you if can help out a newbie.



On my secondary at what seems to be transition I am getting a spike to about 14.5 lbs. WAAAYYY too much for me right now on the stock ecu.



Mods are just a simple K&N drop-in, a punched out precat and a catback. Primary boost is at about 10-11 lbs. Spike is bringing up to about 14 on the secondary.



Question - why am i spiking with those limited mods?

And will a Dawes device help out with the spiking?

What about a popoff valve for either wastegate failure OR for those cold Canadian days??



Thanks.

You running any boost controller? And i would check the wastegate. Just me though, kinda limited on knowledge on that subject.. still learning.

No boost controller at this point. I have been told that boost "controllers" typically only turn boost levels up not down (ie can't help boost creep).



But I keep getting different stories. So now I am looking at Dawes to try and attack the secondary boost spike.



14 lbs is great for drag passes but not for me. I want to try and keep as close to 10 or 11 lbs as possible.



And I have been told that porting the wastegate will help only minimally as well. Porting would however be considered when my current engine blows (whenever that sorry day will be)



Why is it that for every solution there seems to be a conflicting view?



Calling all experts pls!

you need a boost controller!!

You can be ghetto and get the parts from home depot. Not exactly perfect, but it helps.

you can mess around with the pills on the precontrol.



mike

Is there a preference between the Dawes controller or the Home Depot style? Does it make a difference?



And I haven't touched the pills yet but can look at them.

Thanks for the rotor housing.



Go with the Home depot valve, its way cheaper and quick to install. If you need more help PM dont be a rikki

Do a depot valve for now and mess with the precontrol pills, get a larger pill if i'm not mistaken to slow down that 2nd turbo, you can also remove the pill out of the precontrol to see if you can drop the boost..



I think this is correct? i might be wrong, its been a while since i've messed with my boost problems.. don't have those anymore.. .NON SEQUENTIAL !!! ^_^

Yea just get a valve from home depot and put it in the line. You can then dial down the boost.



Go here if you need more help...http://www.rx7turboturbo.com/robrobinette/.../boost_note.htm

You may need this one also.

Sorry to make you guys scroll. I know how annoying it can be.

Lots of fun reading tonight guys https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png



I would want a HD valve in the turbo precontrol line though correct as my primary seems to be ok?



And...for my next question:



Would a popoff valve not also solve the spike problem ?

(and yes...i know...is NOT boost control but a safety device etc etc etc).



And if it would indirectly...would it still be prudent to use the HD valve in the turbo precontrol line as well as the popoff valve (for insurance and wastegate failure) or would that be overkill?

Y9ur car already has a blow off and pop off valve on it. Do you not like the stock parts?





I would put the boost controller on the line to the pre control.

Stock BOV is fine. No problem there! (although it would be nice to have a sweet sounding one but priorities demand I keep the car on the road and healthy)



What stock POV? Did I miss something?



I'll look into to the HD mod. BUT....what about the POV plus the HD mod? Overkill? Redundant? Or 2 different purposes?



Anyone?

I checked today.



You will need to put the boost controller into both lines to tune out the boost creep. Yes there is a stock pop off but they call it the charge relief valve. It's the same damn thing though. If you like that loud <<<pshhht>>> sound when you let off the boost. Then take the lines from the charge relief and the blow off valve that go to the back of the airbox off completly. Don't worry they only blow air out and not back in so you need not filter these two.



The charge relief valve is attached to the top of the "y" pipe if you needa reference. Also it is almost identical to the blow off valve. The one on the top and closer to the firewall..

Thanks for the updated info!

Lots of work ahead for lil ole me.

The CRV is not a pop-off valve. It is only open below 4500 rpm to vent boost from the secondary turbo.



A smaller oriface in the precontrol line should help remove the spike. DO NOT REMOVE THE PILL!!! It will make your spike worse.



If you use the Home Depot valve for precontrol, shut it all the way first (you should see a big dip) then SLOWLY open it and check you prespool/transition/spike. Minute changes in the valve position make big changes in prespool.



Good luck.