Bleeding Brakes
#1
Ok, i changed to Motul, changed the rotors, new pads, and stainless steel breaklines.
I have bleed the breaks at each corner, went through 2 bottles of motul and know i got all the old fluid out. but my breaks don't feel spongy, but if push the brake petal once, and then again the second push is much harder. Typically this means air, but i can't find it or get it out.
ideas?
I have bleed the breaks at each corner, went through 2 bottles of motul and know i got all the old fluid out. but my breaks don't feel spongy, but if push the brake petal once, and then again the second push is much harder. Typically this means air, but i can't find it or get it out.
ideas?
#2
there is a specific order in which you should bleed them (start with farthes from resiovar, end with closest (RR,LR,FR,FL) also with all of that work your doing, speed bleeders are like 5 bucks a piece and are worth their weight in gold if you do racing. Just crack them, and pump (ball bearing operated, so it won't let air back in)
Other than that, ummmm, could be a master cylinder?? I doubt it would do that tho.
Other than that, ummmm, could be a master cylinder?? I doubt it would do that tho.
#3
Originally Posted by mazdadrifter' date='Sep 3 2003, 10:58 PM
there is a specific order in which you should bleed them (start with farthes from resiovar, end with closest (RR,LR,FR,FL) also with all of that work your doing, speed bleeders are like 5 bucks a piece and are worth their weight in gold if you do racing. Just crack them, and pump (ball bearing operated, so it won't let air back in)
Other than that, ummmm, could be a master cylinder?? I doubt it would do that tho.
Other than that, ummmm, could be a master cylinder?? I doubt it would do that tho.
How much fluid did you let out when you were changing the lines?
#8
Originally Posted by Razerx' date='Sep 3 2003, 09:49 PM
Ok, i changed to Motul, changed the rotors, new pads, and stainless steel breaklines.
I have bleed the breaks at each corner, went through 2 bottles of motul and know i got all the old fluid out. but my breaks don't feel spongy, but if push the brake petal once, and then again the second push is much harder. Typically this means air, but i can't find it or get it out.
ideas?
I have bleed the breaks at each corner, went through 2 bottles of motul and know i got all the old fluid out. but my breaks don't feel spongy, but if push the brake petal once, and then again the second push is much harder. Typically this means air, but i can't find it or get it out.
ideas?
When you bleed the brakes you want a nice hard pedal. if you had air, the pedal would be easy to push down, not hard.
#9
Originally Posted by mazdadrifter' date='Sep 3 2003, 08:58 PM
there is a specific order in which you should bleed them (start with farthes from resiovar, end with closest (RR,LR,FR,FL) ...
Note the numbers in the picture at the top of page P-7 of the shop manual. The reason that FL is further from the MC than FR is that the line for FL goes up near the MC but then goes across to the ABS (on the right) and back again. FR goes directly to the ABS and then over to the MC, so it's the shortest.
#10
Thanks for info, i will try the right sequence.
As for some of the questions.
I bleed, about a 1/4 of a QT through each point, after i started seeing the clean/new fluid.
the MC has never been low.
As i said it does seem to have the tendancies of a little air, but with all that i bleed, and not seeing a single bubble for a long time. Any chance of getting a bubble in the brake booster, that doesn't flow out to the calipers?
As for some of the questions.
I bleed, about a 1/4 of a QT through each point, after i started seeing the clean/new fluid.
the MC has never been low.
As i said it does seem to have the tendancies of a little air, but with all that i bleed, and not seeing a single bubble for a long time. Any chance of getting a bubble in the brake booster, that doesn't flow out to the calipers?