Apex New N1 Exv Suspension
03-02-2005, 04:17 AM
#21
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Auckland, New Zealand.
Posts: 707
How much would it cost for shipping of any of your available suspension sets to Auckland, New Zealand?
Have been looking at sets here and there just isn't the range that you have. Would be interested in the Buddy Club or the Apexi possibly one of the HKS depending on shipping.
Would there be an advantage going to the HKS over the others?
Very informative thread by the way.
Have been looking at sets here and there just isn't the range that you have. Would be interested in the Buddy Club or the Apexi possibly one of the HKS depending on shipping.
Would there be an advantage going to the HKS over the others?
Very informative thread by the way.
03-02-2005, 04:35 AM
#22
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Bayarea, CA
Posts: 1,009
In order to get a shipping quote, please email me your address with zip code to rotaryextreme@aol.com. I will see if it's cheaper to ship those suspension by either US postal service or an air freight company. Shipping will be about the same on any suspension kit.
The Buddy Club and the HKS Hipermax II are almost the same. Same kind of construction with same kind of spring rate. But the Buddy Club is better because the lower bracket is adjustable so lowering the car will not compromise suspension travel and it's cheaper too. Anything from HKS will cost more than an equivalent product because it's HK$.
I personally will recommend the Buddy Club one over the HKS.
Chuck
The Buddy Club and the HKS Hipermax II are almost the same. Same kind of construction with same kind of spring rate. But the Buddy Club is better because the lower bracket is adjustable so lowering the car will not compromise suspension travel and it's cheaper too. Anything from HKS will cost more than an equivalent product because it's HK$.
I personally will recommend the Buddy Club one over the HKS.
Chuck
Originally Posted by Battyboy' date='Mar 2 2005, 02:17 AM
How much would it cost for shipping of any of your available suspension sets to Auckland, New Zealand?
Have been looking at sets here and there just isn't the range that you have. Would be interested in the Buddy Club or the Apexi possibly one of the HKS depending on shipping.
Would there be an advantage going to the HKS over the others?
Very informative thread by the way.
Have been looking at sets here and there just isn't the range that you have. Would be interested in the Buddy Club or the Apexi possibly one of the HKS depending on shipping.
Would there be an advantage going to the HKS over the others?
Very informative thread by the way.
03-02-2005, 08:52 AM
#24
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 117
there's the usual tradeoffs between single and twin tube shocks...
single tube allows for a larger piston area which allows for more sensitivity.
OTOH, if the outer casing of a single tube shock gets dinged it is history.
cost differential does not relate to single/double but valve type and materials.
i am not opposed to single tube shocks. if i were racing a formula car at around 1400 pounds maybe i would be able to find a difference...
but a 2800 pound fd w mostly rubber-bushed suspension? the differential would be so far down the list of priorities. it is much more important to have the correct spring rate/ within 25 pounds of optimum.
as i said, i have a shock dyno and shocks are pretty simple things. they have 3 sets of valves... high speed for bumps, low speed for corners etc. their primary function is to control spring oscillations... do too much overcontrolling the spring w shock settings and you screw up the spring dynamics.
i have dynoed over 30 OEM fd shocks. regardless of miles all but one (hydraulic leak) spec'd out perfectly. the OEM shocks work great w aftermarket springs up to 350 pounds. beyond that you should go to aftermarket shocks.
shocks are not as important as spring rates as most shocks can be dialed in to the area of the spring requirement. i am not saying shocks are unimportant, just nowhere near as important as spring rate.
on the subject of springs... we all know they are really progressive don't we?
in other words, a 500 pound spring moves one inch w 500 pounds on top of it. it takes 1000 pounds to move it the second inch and 1500 pounds to 3 inches! a 900 pound spring takes 1800 pounds to move it two inches, 2700 pounds for 3 inches!
the above are progressive but in a linear fashion. "progressive" springs move upwards in a non-linear fashion... 500 for the first inch and, say 1200, for 2 inches...
you can see that running a 700 pound static cornerweight fd will encounter almost no compliance as it goes into bump very quickly.
successful performance engineering is about priorities... get spring rates right.
howard coleman
single tube allows for a larger piston area which allows for more sensitivity.
OTOH, if the outer casing of a single tube shock gets dinged it is history.
cost differential does not relate to single/double but valve type and materials.
i am not opposed to single tube shocks. if i were racing a formula car at around 1400 pounds maybe i would be able to find a difference...
but a 2800 pound fd w mostly rubber-bushed suspension? the differential would be so far down the list of priorities. it is much more important to have the correct spring rate/ within 25 pounds of optimum.
as i said, i have a shock dyno and shocks are pretty simple things. they have 3 sets of valves... high speed for bumps, low speed for corners etc. their primary function is to control spring oscillations... do too much overcontrolling the spring w shock settings and you screw up the spring dynamics.
i have dynoed over 30 OEM fd shocks. regardless of miles all but one (hydraulic leak) spec'd out perfectly. the OEM shocks work great w aftermarket springs up to 350 pounds. beyond that you should go to aftermarket shocks.
shocks are not as important as spring rates as most shocks can be dialed in to the area of the spring requirement. i am not saying shocks are unimportant, just nowhere near as important as spring rate.
on the subject of springs... we all know they are really progressive don't we?
in other words, a 500 pound spring moves one inch w 500 pounds on top of it. it takes 1000 pounds to move it the second inch and 1500 pounds to 3 inches! a 900 pound spring takes 1800 pounds to move it two inches, 2700 pounds for 3 inches!
the above are progressive but in a linear fashion. "progressive" springs move upwards in a non-linear fashion... 500 for the first inch and, say 1200, for 2 inches...
you can see that running a 700 pound static cornerweight fd will encounter almost no compliance as it goes into bump very quickly.
successful performance engineering is about priorities... get spring rates right.
howard coleman
03-02-2005, 03:49 PM
#25
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Bayarea, CA
Posts: 1,009
The suspension comes with the upper mount but no pillow ball. It uses rubber bushing like the stock upper mount. The whole assembly is extremely light. Each shock assembly weighs about 10 lbs.
Below are the photos.
Chuck Huang
http://www.rotaryextreme.com
Below are the photos.
Chuck Huang
http://www.rotaryextreme.com
03-02-2005, 05:44 PM
#26
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 1
Originally Posted by rotaryextreme' date='Feb 22 2005, 11:57 PM
APEX is releasing a new suspension kit for the 93+ RX-7.
32 way adjustable
12 kg/cm springs in the front and back
The N1 ExV Damper is the newest edition to Apex's high performance street line of coilover suspension. The Expert Type V (ExV) is a full coilover suspension featuring a threaded base for precise ride height adjustment without compromising shock or spring travel. Apex have taken their street suspension to the next level by including high performance upper mounts and 32 way ride quality adjustment for street cars that are used at the track as well. The spring rates and internal valving of the ExV has been completely refined for excellent ride quality and sports driving. The ExV was designed to cater exclusively to U.S. market vehicles. With this in mind, internal components have been specifically engineered to withstand harsher road conditions and increased wear caused by everyday street driveing. The Expert Type V was developed based upon user requests for a high performance damper that doesn't carry a typical racing suspension price tag. This system stands as their commitment in providing customers with the ultimate in quality and affordability.
This suspension has a list price of $1390. Street Price is about $1100. If there are enough people interested, I can do a group by on them.
1-4 buyers: $975
4-8 buyers: $945
9+ buyers: $890!
Please post here if you are interested. I will have photos of the suspension next week.
Chuck
32 way adjustable
12 kg/cm springs in the front and back
The N1 ExV Damper is the newest edition to Apex's high performance street line of coilover suspension. The Expert Type V (ExV) is a full coilover suspension featuring a threaded base for precise ride height adjustment without compromising shock or spring travel. Apex have taken their street suspension to the next level by including high performance upper mounts and 32 way ride quality adjustment for street cars that are used at the track as well. The spring rates and internal valving of the ExV has been completely refined for excellent ride quality and sports driving. The ExV was designed to cater exclusively to U.S. market vehicles. With this in mind, internal components have been specifically engineered to withstand harsher road conditions and increased wear caused by everyday street driveing. The Expert Type V was developed based upon user requests for a high performance damper that doesn't carry a typical racing suspension price tag. This system stands as their commitment in providing customers with the ultimate in quality and affordability.
This suspension has a list price of $1390. Street Price is about $1100. If there are enough people interested, I can do a group by on them.
1-4 buyers: $975
4-8 buyers: $945
9+ buyers: $890!
Please post here if you are interested. I will have photos of the suspension next week.
Chuck
Could I get in for that price of $890 ??? Is that also including shipping?? Thanks, John
03-02-2005, 08:48 PM
#27
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Bayarea, CA
Posts: 1,009
This will be a short duration group buy. The deadline for the group buy will be on 3-17-05 which is 2 weeks from now.
Shipping will be $30-$40 within the lower 48 States. To join, paypal $890 to rotaryextreme@aol.com or call 510-683-8850 if you want to use your credit card. After the deadline, you will pay for the difference between the final group buy price and $890 if there is any and exact shipping.
Chuck
Shipping will be $30-$40 within the lower 48 States. To join, paypal $890 to rotaryextreme@aol.com or call 510-683-8850 if you want to use your credit card. After the deadline, you will pay for the difference between the final group buy price and $890 if there is any and exact shipping.
Chuck
Originally Posted by bmwland' date='Mar 2 2005, 03:43 PM
Could I get in for that price of $890 ??? Is that also including shipping?? Thanks, John
03-05-2005, 08:59 PM
#28
Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Queen Creek, AZ
Posts: 62
Do you know anything about the HKS Hipermax Type-D coilover set up? The spec are kgf/mm 6 in the front and 4 in the rear. Just curious because I'm looking to get a coilover set up and my buddy is selling his HKS's, but the price on these is very appealing. Is the rate on the HKS to light?
03-09-2005, 12:15 AM
#29
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 5,547
Originally Posted by howracer' date='Feb 25 2005, 09:39 AM
i run and really like lots of Apexi products and i also run Chuck's toe links which are well built...
that said, being a closet suspension engineer and having road raced successfully for 22 seasons i want to make certain that potential buyers understand just what they are considering bolting on their car.
i am sure being an Apexi product the quality is high.
take a step back and consider what you are buying....
SPRINGS.
so what is the RATE?
first off, it is mis-stated as 12 KG/CM. i am sure it is 12 KG/mm.
that's 672 pounds per inch. the maximum front spring i recommend is 560 and that's right on the line of being too much spring.
secondly... if Chuck is correct, the front and rear springs are the same rate. not good on a front engine rear drive car.
the stock Fd runs 263 front and 195 rear.
the excellent Eibach Pro Kit springs are 350 front 255 rear
my RS*R coil overs which i consider tops are 432 front and 378 rear
the Tein Flex which i like are 566 front and 422 rear
lots of guys running regular racing springs generally run 550/450
the reason you run softer in the rear is that the primary challenge as to going fast in a front engine rear drive car is making the rear stick.
softer bias as to springs, shocks, sway bar and tire pressure ( 30 front 27-28 rear set cold) makes it happen.
similar rated front and rear springs will just make the rear slide around.
and 32 shock settings? i have a shock dyno and shock valving needs to relate to spring rate. plus or minus a modest amount. how do you say overkill.
finally just a word on going fast....
too stiff is slow just as too soft is. there is a common misunderstanding that you have to endure a hard ride to have a fast car. not true. it might seem fast as the car tends to react more quickly to the steering input but when you get to a corner you will find that the car is much harder to drive at the limit. that's because stiffer suspensions do not transfer lateral load any less than softer suspensions. the same force is transferred only faster. faster gives less feedback. it is this feed back early warning that allows a driver to drive at the limit of adhesion.
still don't think fast is soft? just watch a NASCAR restart. as the cars weave back and forth to warm their tires notice how much roll is in the chassis... lots.
if our cars didn't have a true racecar suspension, which they do, then i could see stiffer springs to decrease body roll... but we have double A arms that deliver negative camber gain on bump so roll is not an issue.
bottomline here is that unless you want to buy these coilovers for drifting... where the object is to slide, not go fast at the adhesion limit, find another nice coilover package from Chuck with the right spring rate.
howard coleman
that said, being a closet suspension engineer and having road raced successfully for 22 seasons i want to make certain that potential buyers understand just what they are considering bolting on their car.
i am sure being an Apexi product the quality is high.
take a step back and consider what you are buying....
SPRINGS.
so what is the RATE?
first off, it is mis-stated as 12 KG/CM. i am sure it is 12 KG/mm.
that's 672 pounds per inch. the maximum front spring i recommend is 560 and that's right on the line of being too much spring.
secondly... if Chuck is correct, the front and rear springs are the same rate. not good on a front engine rear drive car.
the stock Fd runs 263 front and 195 rear.
the excellent Eibach Pro Kit springs are 350 front 255 rear
my RS*R coil overs which i consider tops are 432 front and 378 rear
the Tein Flex which i like are 566 front and 422 rear
lots of guys running regular racing springs generally run 550/450
the reason you run softer in the rear is that the primary challenge as to going fast in a front engine rear drive car is making the rear stick.
softer bias as to springs, shocks, sway bar and tire pressure ( 30 front 27-28 rear set cold) makes it happen.
similar rated front and rear springs will just make the rear slide around.
and 32 shock settings? i have a shock dyno and shock valving needs to relate to spring rate. plus or minus a modest amount. how do you say overkill.
finally just a word on going fast....
too stiff is slow just as too soft is. there is a common misunderstanding that you have to endure a hard ride to have a fast car. not true. it might seem fast as the car tends to react more quickly to the steering input but when you get to a corner you will find that the car is much harder to drive at the limit. that's because stiffer suspensions do not transfer lateral load any less than softer suspensions. the same force is transferred only faster. faster gives less feedback. it is this feed back early warning that allows a driver to drive at the limit of adhesion.
still don't think fast is soft? just watch a NASCAR restart. as the cars weave back and forth to warm their tires notice how much roll is in the chassis... lots.
if our cars didn't have a true racecar suspension, which they do, then i could see stiffer springs to decrease body roll... but we have double A arms that deliver negative camber gain on bump so roll is not an issue.
bottomline here is that unless you want to buy these coilovers for drifting... where the object is to slide, not go fast at the adhesion limit, find another nice coilover package from Chuck with the right spring rate.
howard coleman
03-09-2005, 11:00 PM
#30
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Mira Loma, CA
Posts: 20
I just recieved/installed the Apex N1 EXV suspension from Chuck. IMO the ride quality is perfect for street application. The price for these coilovers is very reasonable too. When the dampening was set to #1 (hardest setting) you could feel every aspect of the road. I personally have it set to #12 in the front and #15 in the rear for around town driving. Here are a few pics of the Apex N1 EXV on my FD.
Mikey
Mikey