well, i said idle screw because he said his idle is steady and its low..... then i suggested plugs because of the backfire he is experiencing and he was talking to me about his engine being flooded a couple of days ago.





what can i say, i like giving random thoughts

yea me alt cant be bad, im putting out a constant 14.1 volts even under electrical load, and now when i flip my lights up its only about 100 RPM more which , i hear , is normal. now the only thing i dont get is why my car drops that low to almost a stall after i tap the acc. then let off.

sounds like your Idle Control Solenoid (ISC) is faulty man. The ISC is adjusted by the ECU as it encounters variations in electrical loads, i.e. A/c, lights. I had the same problem...my ISC was sticking either OPEN or CLOSED. Whenever i turned on my a/c or lights, the idle would SOAR to 2500 and bounce from 3k-2500 because the ISC wasnt gradually opening, but slamming open and closed. And when it came down in the RPM range to idle it would almost stall and sometimes die because the ISC was stuck closed. A quick way to see if that's the culprit is to just unplug it and see if the problem stops. (you might have to mess with the screw on the front of the TB to keep ur idle up though)



Good luck! idles are a bitch https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png



-Zach



EDIT: ive been running without an ISC for a year now. 600rpm idle when cold, 900rpm warm, like clockwork. when u turn on the a/c it goes to ~500-600 and is kinda boggy....but ya get used to it

Do a diagnostics scan of the ECU and see if there are any of the sensors giving you a problem.



The Idle controller will not set a hard code (light stays on all the time) but will set what is called a soft code, that is stored in the memory.



Under the hood there is a diagnostics port, using a paperclip or a small piece of wire jumper terminals 10 and GRND then turn the ignition on so the warning ligts come on, then look at the engine light, it will flash a series of codes, post up the codes you have, and your e-mail and I will send you the diagnostic trobleshooting for those codes.

yea its just the knock sensor but that code was flashing before i encountered this problem so... im going to change my plugs because they got flooded like 4 times so .. and im going all 9s

alright i just gave it a quick test drive ... the cars first gear felt fine .. when i got into second the car fell flat on its face at like 2k rpm but boost continued to go up even though im only on it like half throttle ... 2-5 all accelerated very slowly ... what is the deal

i have a hesistation around 2000RPMS at light throttle as well. I'd like to see your diagnostic results when u figure it out cuz i sure as hell dunno what it is.

yea man , this is terrible though, im at full boost but the car just doesn't accel ... its like wtf

i thought a knock sensor code will cause the car to go into a fixed timing mode. when you have engine codes diagnosing probs is tough. i am in the boat with an isc valve or improperly set idle to begin with.

all 9's wont help the flooding issue. which also may be related to the shitty idle or not but it is a problem to investigate.